banana rat

I'm thinking that KMC Rust Buster chain should make a big difference.

Phlorida

Great find, I've never heard of it. The Amazon reviews are really good.

banana rat

Between the Rust Buster chain and Chain-L, I might be good to go. Thanks SlowJoeCrow and rekmeyata,for your input. That's what got me pointed in the right direction, ha ha.

rekmeyata

There are certain materials that can corrode in the presence of engine oil, like the cheaper chains and titanium gears...HOWEVER, it's highly doubtful that the detergents will have time to corrode the parts since we'll replace the chain and titanium gears before that would happen. Stainless steel chains and steel gears won't be effected. Back in the old days when I was a kid people used motor oil but that was 50 so years ago and detergents were either non existent or very little as compared to today's in oil.

pdlamb

Not sure who won't ship to APO address, you might find a different on-line supplier who will.

Or you might wander down to the hanger and see if an airplane mechanic has a pint bottle of T-9 that could mysteriously leak while being held over your bike chain...

banana rat

Now that's a good idea, ha ha.

FBinNY 

Reputable suppliers will not ship T-9 to an APO. The reason is that at 120°, it's flash point is too low for air transport. That means it cannot move by mail, nor can the military post forward it by air.

So the issue isn't APO, it's air transport and the USPS. Ir can be sent via UPS or any ground carrier, but the package must be marked either ORM-D (a category for small amounts of what otherwise would be regulated), or be properly marked "No air freight".

asmac

I don't understand why people don't simply use the cheap commodity product labeled "chain/bar oil" which is apparently designed to lubricate chains. It works well for me though I cut it with 10% mineral spirits (varsol) which reduces the viscosity for application and then evaporates.
To deal with wet conditions and corrosion, I've taken to giving the chain and derailleurs a quick spray of WD40 after a wet ride. WD40 may not be a great lubricant but it is good at its intended task which is water displacement (i.e. the "WD" part).

Ronsonic 

Chain/Bar Oil is a perfectly good lubricant for bike chains, but does collect a lot of crud and is so thick and sticky that it is hard to wipe clean. A thinner mixture will let you at least wipe it off and allow the oil to sink in to where it's needed.

Plimogz

@asmac Oiling (literally) my chain has always resulted in my drivetrain collecting more crud (i.e dirt, dust, tall grass, dead leaves, etc...) than my current lube, T-9, is doing. I have also seen a considerable increase in chain wear life -- 50% more, at least -- compared to my best attempts to lubricate with various oils.

It is also worth noting that it goes on as a thin liquid which acts, not only as a solvent for the old lube and any dirt which has stuck to it, and as the carrier for the (I believe) suspended paraffin which later acts as the lubricant, but also as a water displacer.

I mention all of this, not quite to sell you on the stuff -- I have nothing to gain from other people using, or even trying, T-9 -- but simply out of my own satisfaction with the product.

asmac

I will check it out.

asmac

I usually wipe the chain pretty thoroughly so there's very little left on the outside to attract dirt. Once the lubricant is inside the bearings it's not going to be gathering much dirt and high viscosity chain oil will stay put.

My main point addressing the OP's concern about corrosion is that WD40 dries up the chain (or whatever) and thus prevents that problem.

dwmckee

Maybe 2 - 3 good coats of Boeshield T-9 to protect from corrosion, then use Chain-L or Silca's lube for lubrication? Or put a nickel-plated chain that has built in resistance to rust from the start?

Jeff Wills

I wish people would read through the thread before replying. The OP can't get Boeshield T-9 due to shipping restrictions (apparently).

FBinNY 

That makes about ad much sense as pouring motor oil all over your car every 3,000 miles. Chain oil works INSIDE the chain, where the pins and rollers wear and need lubrication. All chain oil does on the outside of the chain is collect dust.

Of course a film of oil, wax, or other on the outside will protect against rust, but that's a secondary function.

dwmckee

Exactly. As you state, Boeshield to protect the outside from rust and Chain-L to lubricate inside. T-9 is not much of a lubricant... You say it does not make sense... then state exactly why it does make sense.

"On top" of course means after the T-9 has dried and with the knowledge that it will still soak down into the rollers and between the plates where it is needed...

dwmckee

Sorry I missed that in the OP...

FBinNY 

With the T-9 forming a wax plug very little Chain-L will get past to where you want it. Moreover, the Chain-L will dissolve and mix with the wax making a gummier version of itself.

You could use the Chain-L first, then wipe as dry as possible, and apply the Boeshield on top.

The problem with that is that Boeshield isn't all that effective as a weather barrier when exposed and subject to rain scrubbing action, it's simply not tenacious enough.

This is one of those cases where you have to pick your horse and go with it.

dwmckee

Cool, thanks. I did not realize the Chain-L solvents would dissolve the T-9. I guess you have to choose one or the other, and T-9 is not much of a lubricant.

noglider 

I know it's largely a matter of taste, but I never saw the appeal in T-9. I tried it and didn't like it.

tjkoko

I ride on the asphalt and really like the performance of Chain-L lubricant.

FastJake

I'd like to offer my experiences about chain/bar oil since it came up a few times in this thread.

It's best to apply it to a clean and dry chain but I still get decent results on a dirty chain when I'm feeling lazy. Put one drop on each roller and then attempt to wipe ALL of it off with a rag. Of course you can't, but anything you leave on the outside will just attract dirt. When finished there will be a thin film on the outside of the chain.

I tried cutting it down with mineral spirits as is frequently recommended but I didn't find that the MS evaporated. Rather, it seemed like it simply thinned the oil and made it a sloppy mess. It also didn't last nearly as long. So I apply the chain/bar oil at full strength and try to wipe away as much as I can. When the chain starts to make noise apply some more or clean the chain and re-do. I've been getting maybe 400 miles per application and about 4000 miles on my last chain which is a year round commuter and sees all conditions.