Replacing Axle
 

Got a new fork for my road bike, happens to be a track fork with a narrower dropout. The axle I have (approximately 9.5mm) is just slightly too large for the dropouts. I have looked online for a slightly smaller axle but all I have come up with are skewers, apparently around 5mm. I haven't used a skewer before but it looks like it may come with a hollow threaded axle. Anyone know the circumference of a hollow threaded axle that might come with a skewer? Sources for purchasing skewers or axles? Do they generally come with caps/bearings/locknuts that would fit the hub such as what was on the 9.5mm axle and the hub? Comparative experiences? Thank you and happy holidays.

Re Replacing Axle

I checked my bikes using a vernier caliper

Front track axle diameter 0.348" (8.8 mm)
Skewered Front Road Axle 0.350"
Track fork dropout 0.375" (9.5 mm)

Maybe the dropouts on your new fork have paint on them that needs thinning - it has happened to me with rear track dropouts.

I'm familiar with 9mm and 3/8" axles, but I've never heard of them having issues with fork clearance. Are you positive that everything is lined up? I only ask because I've done that before. And by that I mean far too often. 700 Wheel is likely on to the cause.

Depending on how your hub is constructed, the axle COULD be replaceable. You would have to essentially rebuild the hub's internals, or replace the bearings if you did so. Wheels Manufacturing makes a multitude of replacement axles.

I'd say ask this question over in bicycle mechanics, if you haven't already. Add pictures.

Generally speaking, road front axles and track front axles are the same diameter, so the fork end will be the same width. It sounds like the fork you have either has paint built up or the end itself is bent. Visually inspect it first. A skewer is just a skewer, designed for a hollow axle. You'll have to buy that separate. There are a million and one different factors as to whether a particular axle would fit your fork/hub/cones/locknuts/etc, and it probably wouldn't fix the initial problem here.

Also, why are you putting a track fork on a road bike?

I'm gonna move this to Bike Mechanics from Track because it doesn't have much to do with track training or racing and that you'll get more info over there.

Get a utility knife and chip/scrape the paint off the insides of the fork ends. Files can be dangerous in the hands of someone who is not used to using them (ie, no control over material removed). Sandpaper/sanding sticks (available at better hobby shops) are also a possibility. You don't want to remove metal, if you can avoid it, just paint.

That said, everyone else is on the right track. Avoid swapping parts until you try removing the painted surface.

As I pointed out in the other thread, you can swap the axle for $6. If the new fork's dropouts are designed to be a tight fit on a 9mm axle, they may be 9.2-9.3mm or so. A 3/8" axle simply won't fit without some metal removal. Assuming the fork os half decent, my opinion is that fixing the real issue (the wheel's axle) is the cleaner option than filing the dropouts.

Always look to change the least expensive or most replaceable part first. Just file/grind two shallow flats (about 0.25mm each) on the axle at opposing spots which are along the length that matches where the drop out sits. Very easy to do and if you screw up a $10 axle is far less a hit then a $40+ fork. Andy.

Does a track fork accept a front brake?

Depends on whether the fork has a brake mounting hole or not. Or whether a hole can be safely (note that qualifier) drilled through it. Next aspect is the hole to rim reach, and whether a caliper exists with said reach. Lot's of whethers. Andy.