Tubeless troubles
#26
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I'm sorry to say this, but it seems like you're trying to convert non-tubeless rims and tires (or some combination of tubeless ready and not tubeless ready) to tubeless using non-standard equipment (gorilla tape.) I personally wouldn't expect good results. Sometimes stuff like this is marketing wank. However, I do not think tubeless ready rims/tires or tubeless specific rim tape are one of those things.
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Tubeless-ready rims & tires + gorilla tape + sealant is fine, there are plenty of success stories out there. Mine would have been one of them if I had been smart enough to closely inspect the i25 rims all the way around and properly cover the extra off-center holes where pins held the seam together for welding. The first wheelset (i19 rims, Kenda Small-block 8/John Tomac edition) went tubeless with no issues whatsoever. All the problems in the second set came from those extra little rim holes that were not properly sealed.
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Everyone is going on about the tape but what caught my eye in the OP was the glitter. Pun intended! The denizens of the longrunning homebrew tubeless thread on MTBR tried that years ago and the result was boogers. Their usual fills are corn meal and dryer lint.
https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-componen...ew-406115.html
https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-componen...ew-406115.html
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For those who think you must use a tubeless specific tape... ENVE seems to think Gorilla tape is just fine for their hugely expensive carbon wheels. So much so, that is exactly what they ship with all of their tubeless wheels...
ENVE Composites 29er XC Tubeless Rims - Unboxed & Weighed - Bikerumor
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Tubeless-Conversion.html
ENVE Composites 29er XC Tubeless Rims - Unboxed & Weighed - Bikerumor
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Tubeless-Conversion.html
#30
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Nice! That's pretty funny actually...
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Gorilla tape works. Main complaint I've heard is that it can absorb sealant so you need to add more than usual. And it is heavier than Stans tape. Gorilla tape is very popular for fatbike tubeless because it is hard to find tubeless tape of the proper size for an 80 or 100mm rim.
For a regular mountainbike rim, I wouldn't bother with Gorilla tape to save 5 bucks. But Gorilla tape should work.
I also would strongly advice against inflating at max pressure -or anything above 45psi to br honest. The maximum pressure listed on non-tubeless tires assumes you have a tube there that will help hold the tire. Without a tube, as the OP already found out, you can easily blow the tire out. After you blow a tire even if the bead isn't clearly damaged I wouldn't expect the tire to perform properly (i.e. it will be looser)
And really, any leak that "only manifests at 60psi" would be so small that even in a "pressure spike" the amount of air that could leak would be insignificant. Assuming the sealant hadn't coated the casing to effectively seal them by then. There is no reason to pump a tire to 60psi if you can have them seated at 40 psi. And if you can't seat a tire at 45psi, maybe it isn't a good idea to run that tire.
For a regular mountainbike rim, I wouldn't bother with Gorilla tape to save 5 bucks. But Gorilla tape should work.
I also would strongly advice against inflating at max pressure -or anything above 45psi to br honest. The maximum pressure listed on non-tubeless tires assumes you have a tube there that will help hold the tire. Without a tube, as the OP already found out, you can easily blow the tire out. After you blow a tire even if the bead isn't clearly damaged I wouldn't expect the tire to perform properly (i.e. it will be looser)
And really, any leak that "only manifests at 60psi" would be so small that even in a "pressure spike" the amount of air that could leak would be insignificant. Assuming the sealant hadn't coated the casing to effectively seal them by then. There is no reason to pump a tire to 60psi if you can have them seated at 40 psi. And if you can't seat a tire at 45psi, maybe it isn't a good idea to run that tire.
#32
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Tubeless-ready rims & tires + gorilla tape + sealant is fine, there are plenty of success stories out there. Mine would have been one of them if I had been smart enough to closely inspect the i25 rims all the way around and properly cover the extra off-center holes where pins held the seam together for welding. The first wheelset (i19 rims, Kenda Small-block 8/John Tomac edition) went tubeless with no issues whatsoever. All the problems in the second set came from those extra little rim holes that were not properly sealed.
#33
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I also would strongly advice against inflating at max pressure -or anything above 45psi to br honest. The maximum pressure listed on non-tubeless tires assumes you have a tube there that will help hold the tire. Without a tube, as the OP already found out, you can easily blow the tire out. After you blow a tire even if the bead isn't clearly damaged I wouldn't expect the tire to perform properly (i.e. it will be looser)
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Gorilla tape works. Main complaint I've heard is that it can absorb sealant so you need to add more than usual. And it is heavier than Stans tape. Gorilla tape is very popular for fatbike tubeless because it is hard to find tubeless tape of the proper size for an 80 or 100mm rim.
For a regular mountainbike rim, I wouldn't bother with Gorilla tape to save 5 bucks. But Gorilla tape should work.
For a regular mountainbike rim, I wouldn't bother with Gorilla tape to save 5 bucks. But Gorilla tape should work.
Tubeless Tape Thread- Mtbr.com
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Everyone is trying to figure out exactly what Stan's is so they can buy it cheaper.
Tubeless Tape Thread- Mtbr.com
Tubeless Tape Thread- Mtbr.com