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Yokozuna cables, worth it, long enough?

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Yokozuna cables, worth it, long enough?

Old 01-02-16, 08:06 PM
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tyrion
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Yokozuna cables, worth it, long enough?

Yokozuna Premium Cables, Housing and Brake Pads

I'm going to get a longer stem which will require new cables. I have a Novara Randonee with On One Midge bars, bar end shifters, rim brakes, fairly traditional cable system. I want to run the shift cables all the way under the tape to come out near the stem.

Can anyone comment if the cables and housing supplied with that Yokozuna Reaction kit will be long enough? My handlebars are wide but the actual length, if straightened out, is not long, if that makes any sense (always lots of bar tape left over).

I've recabled another bike with the Jagwire Road Pro kit and think it might not be long enough to run the shift cables all the way to the stem, so if the Yokozuna kit will do that then that justifies the extra cost.
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Old 01-02-16, 08:17 PM
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Why don't you get a piece of stiff wire run it along your proposed cable housing route and measure it? You will probably get close enough just using a tape measure by itself. There is 3000mm of housing in the kit (118.1 inches)
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Old 01-02-16, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr View Post
Why don't you get a piece of stiff wire run it along your proposed cable housing route and measure it? You will probably get close enough just using a tape measure by itself. There is 3000mm of housing in the kit (118.1 inches)
Thanks, yeah I should measure it (and read the specs )

But 118 inches should be plenty.
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Old 01-02-16, 09:37 PM
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Can you make the curves of that bar work when routing the cable under tape?
I have an Origin8 Gary OS Sweep bar with the same or similar flare as your On One bar and the bend at the hooks is too severe for me to route cables under the tape.


I know this doesn't address your question, I just mention it to make sure you have considered it before too much planning.

...I use jagwire housing in a bulk length and a tandem cable for the rear on both my bar end bikes regardless of cable routing, but my frames are very large, so the extra length is needed.
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Old 01-02-16, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mstateglfr View Post
Can you make the curves of that bar work when routing the cable under tape?
I have an Origin8 Gary OS Sweep bar with the same or similar flare as your On One bar and the bend at the hooks is too severe for me to route cables under the tape.
That is an issue. I don't think the curves in my bars are any tighter than a compact drop bar but it still might be too tight. In experimenting with my existing (stock, probably cheap) cables I taped them high up to where the hoods are, some tight bends and I could sure feel the friction in the cables. I had to back that off and let them flow more smoothly because the friction was too much.

But I'm hoping with better quality cables I'll be able to find a smooth line along the bars that doesn't impart too much friction. I think I'll try it, if it's too much friction I can cut the cables down and route them the traditional way shooting out of the wrap about 4 inches from the bar ends. But if anyone's tried this I'd like to hear about it.
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Old 01-03-16, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by tyrion View Post
Thanks, yeah I should measure it (and read the specs )

But 118 inches should be plenty.
Sometimes 1 measurement is worth 1,000 assumptions.
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Old 01-03-16, 07:43 AM
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I used a couple of sets of Yokozuna cables in the past. They're OK, but the brake cable is oversized and very stiff. I now prefer the new Jagwire Pro sets with the black cables and compressionless brake housings.
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