fudwupper

I'm riding a 2005 Fuji Silhouette and have noticed a strange problem.

When I back pedal, the chain goes slack and the derailleur cage flexes forward, suggesting too much resistence in the freehub or in the cage pulleys. The effect is only noticable when the rear wheel is rolling which seems to narrow it down to the freehub.

Here's the wierd part. It is only noticable in low temperatures (less than ~50F). Also, this is the second wheel I've have on this bike (the first one popped a spoke after 150mi). Same thing with both wheels.

Bad lube? Metal expansion/contraction? Minor adjustment?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

supcom

Drip some motor oil into the freehub to lubricate it. Find a gap between the fixed and rotating parts and slowly drip oil into it until you hear the ratchet pawls change sound.

Gonzo Bob

It may not be the freehub. A maladjusted or misaligned rear derailer can also cause what you are seeing. Take the wheel out and spin the freehub by hand (or spin the wheel and hold the freehub stationary) to see if it spins freely.

sydney

That doesn't work on a freehub.

powers2b

Is your drive-train clean and properly lubricated??

Enjoy

LV2TNDM

One post was correct in stating that it may be the rear derailleur. The pulley wheels have bushings which can foul easily. A 3mm allen wrench will allow for disassembly, cleaning and lubrication.
If, however, it is your freehub, then you must overhaul the rear hub and remove the freehub body. Remove locknuts and cone from one side of axle. Remove ball bearings and grease from both sides and clean. (Toss the old bearings) Once hub is open, remove freehub body with 10mm allen wrench. Place allen wrench in vise and slide freehub body onto wrench. Rotate wheel counter-clocwise to loosten freehub bolt. Unscrew bolt and remove freehub body. If freehub has a dust seal on the hub side, remove it. Flush freehub body with solvent to remove old lube and contaminants (citrus a great choice). No need to disassemble freehub body - you'll lose the tiny bearings if you try! Blow out freehub with compressed air to remove remaining (non-flamable) solvent. Lubricate freehub with light oil, such as Finish Line synthetic oil. After excess oil has stopped dripping from the other side, reinstall dust seal. Do not use grease on the freehub internals, as it will interfere with proper pawl engagement.
Reinstall parts. Replace 1/4" bearings with grade 25 or better. Do not reuse old bearings. You will result with a smooth-running freehub and an overhauled rear hub. The upgraded bearings will ensure long life and smooth operation.

supcom

It worked on the Bontrager freehub on my Trek. Take the cassette off first. There's got to be a gap somewhere.

fudwupper

Thanks for suggestions. I checked the pulleys and the RD; they are fine. The rear hub is stiff. Really stiff. Both the axle and the casette have a lot of resistence.

I may be dating myself, but this is the first bike I've have without a freewheel. How different is the cassette/freehub? Is there a simple way to back off on the pressure on the freehub and the axle?

Thanks!

genec

How do you lube a freehub then?

Gonzo Bob

A hub axle is usually pretty simple to adjust/overhaul. See https://www.parktool.com/repair_help/howfix_hub.shtml

Freehub is a little more complicated. If it's just gunked up, a cleaning and lubrication might fix it. But if the bearings are worn, it's easiest to just replace the entire freehub. See https://www.parktool.com/repair_help/..._freehub.shtml