When comparing 2 bikes, if the wheels are different sizes, you need to factor that in when comparing gearing. That's where "gear inches" becomes useful.

If 2 different styles of bike, such as hybrid and road, you might be used to the flat, wider bars, and pulling hard for leverage when starting or climbing, but more tentative on a road bike with narrower bars and different posture.

I thought the same thing, but look at the rear triangle. It's very... big and the seatstay angle is very sharp.

Probably just HTFU.. ride harder.

Maybe it because its winter and the town is flooded ?.

All this talk is useless... You don't know anything about gearing, or what gear inch you are in. Study it and know it.
Learn about gearing and how to use it!

I have no idea WTF you are doing.
Trek 7.0 as far as I can see comes 48 front, 14 rear... That is a 91 inch gear.
BMC comes 50 front, 11 rear.... That is a 120 inch gear.
Can you verify this, and exactly what gears you are using.

There's no way that one of those bikes is a 63 and the other is a 61. There's far more than 2 cm of difference between them. Is it possible that they were measured differently?

If the trek is the right size, the BMC is too small for you. (Or maybe it's the angle of the picture, the BMC still looks very small.) I mean, you have at least 3 handfuls of seatpost sticking out of the BMC, maybe only 1.5 on the trek. I know it has a sloping top tube... but still...

The position on the bike is nowhere near the same. Much more saddle-handlebar drop on the BMC. Something you're probably not used to.

Sorry for the massive pic, it's the OPs.

http://i.imgur.com/eMUIhk1.jpg

Slow motor? It always is in my case.

There are different sizing standards. Geometry from the BMC website lists no particular measurement of 61cm for the frame labeled "61", closest is 621mm 'stack' which is height difference from center of bottom bracket to top of head tube. Seat tube itself is 550 center-to-clamp, so probably more like 53cm center-to-center, which explains the long seatpost.

I seemed to have clicking on my first few new bikes. After about 100 miles or so, that clicking sound went away, and - aside from chain noise when not properly lubed - both bikes only have the whoosh of tires for sound.

That said, I would think that a slower bike would most likely come from fit. Play with saddle height to make sure you're getting optimal power in your stroke.

I believe that if the OP would learn to spin at a higher cadence his perception of efforts to accelerate would be rather different. Andy.

BMC looks pretty sweet. Can't see the Trek as well. Anyway, mystery solved. Ride safe!

This view is on an angle so there's no way to judge their relative size...

Where..?

Edit: after reading the thread more carefully, I think I may have jumped the gun in announcing mystery solved. But I'll leave my post below, for what it's worth.

Different gearing used on the two bikes. 50T vs 48T big rings is 4% higher gear on the BMC vs the Trek, even if the same tooth cog was used on the cassette. That's a difference some riders will feel, I would anyway. Especially if you're climbing or accelerating.

It's not always possible to get exactly the same gearing. Suppose you're climbing on the Trek in 48x23 or 2.087. Then you switch to the BMC with the 50T big ring. 50x23 is 2.173 and 50x25 is 2.000. That is 4% difference between each of those gear ratios. (This assumes same tire diameter and crank length.)

Which is, IMO, when you get up out of the saddle.