Handlebar tape
 

Hi everybody,
I am about to install new tape on drop handlebars that have bar-end shifters. Does anyone have tips on how best to do this? Is the process identical to installing tape on handlebars where the bar ends don't have anything mounted on them?

I always start at the ends of the bars anyway, but I make two changes with bar end shifters:

1) I cut an angle on the tape as I would when finishing it, and then cut about 3/4" of that off, straight across. This gives the neatly overlapped start a nicer shape, and the flattened area gives more area for the overlap to hold on.

2) I either whip with thread or wrap with electrical tape the starting area (at the shifter). I have found, over the years, that double-stick tape is a poor substitute. While the electrical tape doesn't look great, the tape has no danger of unraveling. Whipping with thread/twine may not look right on your bike--you will have to be the judge of that. Rivendell has a good video of whipping if you have no idea how.

Both of these things are done in lieu of leaving a 1/2" overlap of the bar and folding it over to be held in with the bar plug.

Thanks for your fast answer. Do you tape over the shifter cables coming out of the bar end shifters?

[MENTION=183630]BROOKLINEBIKER[/MENTION]

As the above poster said, yes, [electrical] tape down the housing first. I only [electrical] tape it down up to the end of the flat portion of the drops (again, starting at the bar end), with it eventually coming out of the bar tape in that area, to arc to the downtube stops. Some people prefer routing it up to the stem (as you would with integrated levers), but you should be aware that this usually leads to needing a tandem cable for the rear shifter. You may also wind up with an awkward lump along the inside of the brake lever's body.

The 'cork' (or whatever you're using as bar tape) gets wrapped over everything, right up until the bend in the drop. The only somewhat tricky part is wrapping the tape under the housing at that point, so you have a nice, tight interface over the housing, and under it, as it emerges. Your goal is to have the housing hidden entirely until it needs to come out from under the bar tape, be that at the bottom of the drop, or the stem area.

Tape over the housing. Tape over the housing and let the housing go out at the start of the hook, or tape over the housing all the way up to the stem, but tape over it and dont let the housing be completely exposed.

If you tape "up" (from the end up) it is a touch awkward to bring the housing out at the hooks - the emerging housing interferes with the tape overlap. But you can finess it. If you tape "down" this isn't an issue.

I have bar end shifters on a few of my bikes and leave the cables/housing completely exposed. I just prefer to keep bar wrapping completely separate from any cable work I may need to do.

Self-fusing silicone tape is a great alternative to electrical tape. It sticks only to itself so can be easily and cleanly removed, and does not creep or bleed adhesive like electrical tape. It comes in many colors including clear so you can match/contrast the color to your bike or bar tape. Hardware stores carry it, as do numerous online sellers.

On my last rebuild the V.G. LBS I use he's been there forever, I purchased the brown leather tape & he installed it, it turned out million times better than my previous attempts. No charge as I bought the tape there, admittedly I give him a far bit of work, & he's just completely re-spoked two wheel sets for me, again another job I would not try myself, replace the odd spoke OK.

Do you not find this rolls the tape at the edges, especially on the tops and ramps of the drop bar?

I use some masking tape to affix the housing to the bar under the tape and place a loop of it right before where the housing exits under the bar tape at the hooks. This ensures the housing is supported without relying on the bar tape to support it. Its awkward in that it isnt a simple wrap, but its only an extra minute or two of ensuring the tape is wrapped tight and placed closely just like normal, and you then get bar tape that isnt wrapped backwards.

+1. I would rather have one section I have to finesse at the cable exit than the alternative of having my hand pressure unrolling the tape.

A nice, tight wrap also helps. I use to roll mine relatively loose, which gives a plusher feel, but a tight wrap lasts so much longer and looks much nicer.

Try self-fusing silicone tape. It doesn't use adhesive but bonds permanently to itself. I have black, this link shows white and there may be other colours available but I don't know.

Fusion Pro Self-fusing White Silicone Tape | Canadian Tire

I tape over the shifter cables up until the brake lever band then the cable exits to the inside .

(Of course if the housing section is Pre Made, I just cope .. use the best ,smooth line.)

I resume taping the upper section , which If Aero levers. that is another tape over..

though my CX type bike has all 4 cables running up to the center(+ top mount levers)

Depends on the tape. With old school cloth, yes (tape can roll). With modern tape like Fizik, no. With cork, not usually.

I tape "down", i.e. start at the flats and wind down the drops to the ends. This way the starting point needs no tape to hold it, and the ending part is held by the plug (either gratuitous plug for me, or barcon for you).

For extra cushion, I lay down a layer of old inner tube first, then the bar tape.

Once I was more clever, and chased the innertube (black) and tape (lime green) for what I called a 'circus stripe' look. You can see it here (also pics of my stiched up knee). I liked the look, but not enough to re-do it when it was time for new tape.