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How screwed am I with a rounded off crank bolt?

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How screwed am I with a rounded off crank bolt?

Old 02-06-16, 12:40 PM
  #26  
CliffordK
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Is the other side bolt hollow? That would make drilling and the easy out much more practical.

You can buy left-hand drill bits that will occasionally grab a screw and pull it out without the easy-out. At least drilling can be the first step towards extracting.
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Old 02-06-16, 01:03 PM
  #27  
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Update 3. Thanks everyone! In the end regular drill bits worked just fine but I had to start small and work up using the drill press.
Lots of fun!
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Old 02-06-16, 01:21 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
that ^^ would be OK for the hex head bolt he doesn't have.
Might appear that way,...but not only does it work with socket head bolts, it works well. Like I said, out in a jiffy. And no drilling or busted e-z outs. Otherwise I would not have recommended it.

Since the tool has some wall thickness, it may actually NOT work with hex head crank bolts. Don't know, haven't tried.
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Old 02-06-16, 01:27 PM
  #29  
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Rommel have them in your desert?
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Old 02-06-16, 01:35 PM
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Next question, what does your hex key look like? I'm thinking that if it rounded our that bolt, it's probably damaged enough to warrant replacement. Usually it's the 5 mm that dies first.
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Old 02-06-16, 02:31 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
Rommel have them in your desert?
Check with Montgomery in your state.
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Old 02-06-16, 02:34 PM
  #32  
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Yep, it went in the garbage right away. Plus is was one of those comes with a stationary bike so the customer can assemble it. Only real Craftsman from now on for me. That said, I just removed the bolts from the other two bikes (in the house this time). On the last one, the allen key definitely cut into the bolt so that I had ban it off. Clearly CycleOps does not imagine that their cranks should ever be removed.

Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
Next question, what does your hex key look like? I'm thinking that if it rounded our that bolt, it's probably damaged enough to warrant replacement. Usually it's the 5 mm that dies first.
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Old 02-06-16, 03:05 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
Next question, what does your hex key look like? I'm thinking that if it rounded our that bolt, it's probably damaged enough to warrant replacement. Usually it's the 5 mm that dies first.
I've cut 3/16" off of the end of an allen wrench, and kept using it Plus cutting gives nice square corners at the bottom.

If the metal is so soft that it goes bad on the first use, then TRASH
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Old 02-06-16, 04:07 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by _ForceD_ View Post
Have you considered a screw extractor such as those at this link:

Straight Flute & Spiral Flute Extractors by Vermont American | Zoro.com

Dan
The problem with these types of extractors is that they are not shallow enough. You normally drill a hole through so that it is deep enough for the proper size to work.
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Old 02-06-16, 05:17 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by JimboMartin View Post
Yep, it went in the garbage right away. Plus is was one of those comes with a stationary bike so the customer can assemble it. Only real Craftsman from now on for me. That said, I just removed the bolts from the other two bikes (in the house this time). On the last one, the allen key definitely cut into the bolt so that I had ban it off. Clearly CycleOps does not imagine that their cranks should ever be removed.
Craftsmen, while their warranty is nice, doesn't come close to making the best hex keys. The alloy they use just isn't up to snuff. Look for Wiha (German) or Bondhus (USA). Both are excellent, and exceedingly difficult to damage. The less used keys go pretty much forever, the 4/5/6 last about 2 years in shops that I've been in with typical 8-10 bikes a day/station before needing retouching.

In the future, if you have an obstinate bolt that doesn't appear to want to move, grab an impact wrench (powered or manual). Smooth, excessive torque has a tendency to strip fasteners/damage tools. With an impact gun, on the other hand, you get the best of shock+torque, the two best things to remove stuck fasteners. If I'm removing cranks (that don't have self-extractor caps) or chainrings in a shop environment, I don't even bother with the hand tools anymore. It has saved many a busted knuckle.
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Old 02-06-16, 05:31 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by wschruba View Post
The less used keys go pretty much forever, the 4/5/6 last about 2 years in shops that I've been in with typical 8-10 bikes a day/station before needing retouching.
I find the 4 mm to be the easiest to wear out. I've salvaged several 4 mm good quality allen keys by cutting 2-3 mm from the worn end using a Dremel and a cut-off wheel to reestablish a sharp, clean end. I keep a glass of cold water next to the bench to frequently dip the key as it's being cut off to be sure it isn't overheated.
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Old 02-06-16, 05:32 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by cyclintom View Post
The problem with these types of extractors is that they are not shallow enough. You normally drill a hole through so that it is deep enough for the proper size to work.
This is how they are intended to work; you choose based on the size of the thread, not the socket. Any large bolt will not have clearance issues (unless a specialty item like a self-extractor).

There are short taper versions intended for stripped sockets, but are very much a specialty item, available from tool suppliers:

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