Any practicality to replacing the hub in a wheel?
#1
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Any practicality to replacing the hub in a wheel?
I have a wheelset that has rims that I like with hubs that I hate and the thought crossed my mind as I was shopping for a wheelset that maybe I should just replace the hubs.
But I don't think I have ever heard of anyone doing this.
Does anyone do this? Does the economics of it all render this pointless when one could just buy a new wheelset?
But I don't think I have ever heard of anyone doing this.
Does anyone do this? Does the economics of it all render this pointless when one could just buy a new wheelset?
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It's been done my MANY others before you. Usually by those who do their own wheel building. Otherwise the economics likely don't make sense. Before you spend money the builder will want to see the rims and might want to un tension the wheels enough to no longer be useable. This allows the rims to return to their real condition without spoke tension to make them look straight or round. If the rims are not both they are not worth reusing. Also expect the builder to want to replace the spokes. Andy.
#3
Constant tinkerer
I've done it before. If you like the rim and you have a hub that you like sitting in a box it might make sense. This assumes that YOU do the labor. Otherwise it's probably not worth it.
Plan on replacing the spokes, unless you built the wheel in the first place and you know everything is in good shape. Maybe 75% of the used wheels I come across have spokes/nipples so frozen and corroded they are impossible to loosen and must be cut out.
Plan on replacing the spokes, unless you built the wheel in the first place and you know everything is in good shape. Maybe 75% of the used wheels I come across have spokes/nipples so frozen and corroded they are impossible to loosen and must be cut out.
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It really depends on the value of the wheels. It is common to do with road bikes. Many lower quality MTB wheels are a dime a dozen, and people often don't like to mess with them. But, anything is possible.
I've been building my own wheels since at least as a teenager. It isn't all that difficult, it just takes patience. And, one can do it with pretty crude equipment, or even on the bike in a pinch.
But, a good bike shop should also be able to build a wheel.
If all sizes are the same, you might be able to re-use the spokes. Otherwise, buy new. Keep in mind that right and left spokes are usally different on the rear.
If you choose to have a shop do the work, ask them if they want you do disassemble the wheels first. Also, some wheel builders don't like messing with used rims. Perhaps they'd choose to check trueness before you disassemble.
I've been building my own wheels since at least as a teenager. It isn't all that difficult, it just takes patience. And, one can do it with pretty crude equipment, or even on the bike in a pinch.
But, a good bike shop should also be able to build a wheel.
If all sizes are the same, you might be able to re-use the spokes. Otherwise, buy new. Keep in mind that right and left spokes are usally different on the rear.
If you choose to have a shop do the work, ask them if they want you do disassemble the wheels first. Also, some wheel builders don't like messing with used rims. Perhaps they'd choose to check trueness before you disassemble.
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Wasn't happy with the hub so I ended up building a wheel.
It ain't rocket science, but a feel for what the steel is doing is helpful.
https://www.bikeforums.net/fifty-plus...eel-today.html
It ain't rocket science, but a feel for what the steel is doing is helpful.
https://www.bikeforums.net/fifty-plus...eel-today.html
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What's to hate about a hub?
As pointed out, it is possible to replace the hub, but unless you do your own work, the economics pretty much rule it out. IME, the rims are far and away the more consumable, especially if, like me, you use light rims. So, if I had some reason to hate a hub (god knows why), I'd simply live with it until I found myself a rain filled pothole some night.
OTOH- Murphy's Law always holds, so deciding that I really want to rebuild the wheel is like a magic amulet, and ensures that the wheel lasts forever.
As pointed out, it is possible to replace the hub, but unless you do your own work, the economics pretty much rule it out. IME, the rims are far and away the more consumable, especially if, like me, you use light rims. So, if I had some reason to hate a hub (god knows why), I'd simply live with it until I found myself a rain filled pothole some night.
OTOH- Murphy's Law always holds, so deciding that I really want to rebuild the wheel is like a magic amulet, and ensures that the wheel lasts forever.
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A wheel comprises three things: Hub, spokes, rim. If you change the hub or rim, you'll likely need new spokes unless you can match the rim ERD or flange dimensions closely enough. So, in your case, you'll probably only be saving the rim. How much do you like that rim, what's its condition and what's it worth?
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Nice hubs can be pricey (especially when purchased retail). Odds of the new hub having the exact same dimensions as the old are pretty close to zero so that means new spokes. If you want high quality light double-butted spokes, those are close to $1 each in small quantities. If you want something like CX-rays, you're looking at $3 each. If you have to pay a wheel builder, you're probably better off financially to just sell what you have and buy a new wheelset with rims/hubs you like.
On rare occasions it makes sense. I just rebuilt a sort-of-vintage wheel (doesn't seem right to call early '90s "vintage") to replace the old 7-speed freewheel hub with a modern 11-speed cassette hub. But in that case I lucked into finding a new hub that needed spoke lengths within a mm of the existing spokes so I was only out the cost of an inexpensive Shimano Tiagra hub ($30) and my time to rebuild the wheel. And I still agonized over whether I should just replace the whole wheelset
On rare occasions it makes sense. I just rebuilt a sort-of-vintage wheel (doesn't seem right to call early '90s "vintage") to replace the old 7-speed freewheel hub with a modern 11-speed cassette hub. But in that case I lucked into finding a new hub that needed spoke lengths within a mm of the existing spokes so I was only out the cost of an inexpensive Shimano Tiagra hub ($30) and my time to rebuild the wheel. And I still agonized over whether I should just replace the whole wheelset
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I do it all the time. This winter I wanted to put studded tyres on my Soma Saga but I hate switching tyres out. I had an old set of BikesDirect wheels with crappy no-name hubs, WTB rims and stainless spokes. I sourced a new Shimano 756A rear hub, I had a 758 front hub already. Two hours later I had a dedicated set of winter wheels for $40 out-of-pocket. The spokes weren't perfect length but close enough.
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fify
It would help to know why you want to replace your hub. I've done a fair amount of that kind of work because I enjoy doing wheel work (Mrs. Grouch calls it knitting for men.). Usually it's the spokes or rim that need replacing first so you don't hear too much about replacing hubs unless there's some other reason.
Most Shimano hubs have dimensions that are so close to the same that they would plug back in PROVIDED the spokes are reusable. I agree with the poster who said that's a less than 50% likelihood.
It would help to know why you want to replace your hub. I've done a fair amount of that kind of work because I enjoy doing wheel work (Mrs. Grouch calls it knitting for men.). Usually it's the spokes or rim that need replacing first so you don't hear too much about replacing hubs unless there's some other reason.
Most Shimano hubs have dimensions that are so close to the same that they would plug back in PROVIDED the spokes are reusable. I agree with the poster who said that's a less than 50% likelihood.
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Last edited by Retro Grouch; 02-24-16 at 07:45 AM.
#11
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I've built a few wheels from 'scratch' (I actually find it kind of therapeutic...like knitting for example). If you're really into working on bikes yourself I'd say do it at least once just to get the experience and the feel for what goes into it. As far as the practicality...one thing that you need to consider is the time involved in doing it. Those with lots of experience building wheels can probably do it rather quickly (Like Mr IGH's two hour build mentioned above). But if it's your first time it'll likely take you considerably longer. And, as others have indicated, it can be done without all the specific tools used by experienced wheel builders (truing stand, spoke tensionometer, dishing tool for rear, etc.) But without those items it may add to the time.
Dan
Dan
#12
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#13
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Hubs on the rim: Surly NEW
Why I hate the hubs: The axle has no shoulder and servicing them is a pain. They are a stupid design in my opinion, they loosen up easily on their own and the bearings wear out quickly at that point and without a shoulder on the axle bearing replacement is difficult.
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Rim I have: Mavic open pro
Hubs on the rim: Surly NEW
Why I hate the hubs: The axle has no shoulder and servicing them is a pain. They are a stupid design in my opinion, they loosen up easily on their own and the bearings wear out quickly at that point and without a shoulder on the axle bearing replacement is difficult.
Hubs on the rim: Surly NEW
Why I hate the hubs: The axle has no shoulder and servicing them is a pain. They are a stupid design in my opinion, they loosen up easily on their own and the bearings wear out quickly at that point and without a shoulder on the axle bearing replacement is difficult.
on 3x wheels the spokes come to the hub on a near tangent, so there's minimal change in spoke length as flange diameter changes. So, if the flange diameter is at all similar, odds greatly favor the spokes being close enough in length to be fine.
Buy nipples, either a few spares just in case, or a complete set and replace all to spare yourself concern over losing a few. While I'll reuse spokes if I feel it's warranted, I don't like reusing nipples because they sometimes get a bit banged up in the flats, and they're cheap enough for me to spare myself the issue entirely.
If you don't do your own work, I suspect that you'll find the cost of the new hubs plus labor to be as much or more than a new wheel, but that's just a matter of price comparison and a decision. Keep in mind that buying a new wheel vs, rebuilding, leaves you with a spare wheel, so if the cost is close that's the smarter move.
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 02-24-16 at 02:31 PM.
#16
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#17
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There is nothing F***** up about them at this point. I simply prefer a hub that is designed for quick and easy service. Axles with no shoulder do not allow that. Axles with a shoulder can be rebuilt easily with no tools beyond a hammer and cone wrenches in my experience.
#18
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I have No clue about what parts you have or are asking about.
Surly is a Brand name, they dont make anything , they contract it all Out.
You loosen the spokes 1 by 1 so the rim stays round and planar flat.
then You are starting over and building a wheel with your choice of Hubs ..
Shimano as dominant in the Biz is always a good choice since spares are sold around the globe.
If You have the right shop tools they are quick and easy to service.
I re used the front rim and laced in a New Dynamo Hub from Schmidt. in 08.
Surly is a Brand name, they dont make anything , they contract it all Out.
You loosen the spokes 1 by 1 so the rim stays round and planar flat.
then You are starting over and building a wheel with your choice of Hubs ..
Shimano as dominant in the Biz is always a good choice since spares are sold around the globe.
If You have the right shop tools they are quick and easy to service.
I re used the front rim and laced in a New Dynamo Hub from Schmidt. in 08.
Last edited by fietsbob; 02-26-16 at 02:07 PM.
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OTOH - I'm a bit confused by your terminology, specifically the reference to a shoulder. The most serviceable hub systems use plain threaded axles, allowing you to change spacing to suit your needs. That seems to be what you're describing when you say axles with a shoulder, but I have no idea what you're referring to by the term shoulder.
BTW - as I said, it's your choice, but given that the wheel is OK now, I'd assign it some value as a spare wheel when comparing the cost of the new hub and labor to rebuild onto it, to the price of a new wheel.
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FB
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Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#20
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Originally Posted by FBinNY8562109
OTOH - I'm a bit confused by your terminology, specifically the reference to a shoulder. The most serviceable hub systems use plain threaded axles, allowing you to change spacing to suit your needs. That seems to be what you're describing when you say axles with a shoulder, but I have no idea what you're referring to by the term shoulder....
#21
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Do a little research, the original version of the Surly hub has angular contact cartridge bearing. They require old-school knowledge of how to adjust cup and cone loose ball bearings. That's in short supply these daze so Surly changed them over to regular cartridge bearings. There's a kit to "upgrade" Surly hub for those that can't figure it out....
#22
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Do a little research, the original version of the Surly hub has angular contact cartridge bearing. They require old-school knowledge of how to adjust cup and cone loose ball bearings. That's in short supply these daze so Surly changed them over to regular cartridge bearings. There's a kit to "upgrade" Surly hub for those that can't figure it out....
So my question is for the OP, and not someone guessing at what he may mean, --- what do you mean by shoulder?
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#23
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OTOH - I'm a bit confused by your terminology, specifically the reference to a shoulder. The most serviceable hub systems use plain threaded axles, allowing you to change spacing to suit your needs. That seems to be what you're describing when you say axles with a shoulder, but I have no idea what you're referring to by the term shoulder.
#24
Constant tinkerer
It's not about adjustment. It's about the what is involved in taking them apart. Every hub that I have taken apart has a "shouldered" axle shaft. By that I mean that there is a raised, machined section at each end of the shaft. To take apart, you remove the hardware at each end. Then tap the axle with a mallet. The "shoulder" will drive one bearing out. Stick the axle back in the hub housing and use the shoulder to drive the other bearing out. This Surly "NEW" axle has no such shoulder and bearing removal is not nearly as simple. It can be done obviously, I am not saying it is extreemly difficult, just saying that I prefer that my hub maintenance go quickly, smoothly and without the need for special tooling ie. blind hole pullers.
One more reason I'm glad I only deal with loose-ball bearings that only require cone wrenches to service. But that's just me.
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I swapped out my Surly 'new' disc hubs for Shimano XT m756's and could not be happier. Given the dimensions, I managed to keep the same spokes. And considering I did the work myself, it only cost me a couple of hubs -- which, considering Shimano hubs' price, was delightfully affordable.