Eric_in_SD

Assembly was a bit challenging. I've been working with bikes for thirty years, but I encountered a few head scratchers. I solved the problems and present the solutions here for future reference.

Internal cable routing: The derailleur cables run through the down tube. There are orange dummy cable guides preinstalled. Here's the weird part: The rear derailleur cable was already installed, but the cable guide was left in, and the cable guide is flared at the top, so it was hard to pull through. I detached the cable from the rear derailleur, and then I realized that the cable routing from the shifters would be cleaner if the sides were switched. The cables cross inside the frame, but in the cable housings have less curvature. The right hand (rear) shifter cable enters the down tube on the left side but then emerges on the right side of the bottom of the down tube.


The Talon has a large hole in the bottom of the frame, so it's easy to re-route the cables. You don't even need the dummy guides.

The front derailleur cable goes through a hole in the frame and up the seat post tube. There is a cable guide here, too, but this one is white-clear plastic. This one needs to remain in place, or the front derailleur cable rubs on the frame. The tube is Teflon and low friction. Note in the picture I do not have the tube in place and will replace it.


There were several parts that were a mystery. Two little metal tabs, with double stick tape on them. I found out these are shims for the front derailleur, and are not needed.


There is also a strip of black rubber; I found out this is for the reflector clamp. Finally there is a steel ring; this is for if you want to change the rear sprocket to other than the 11-speed.


Here's a shout out to Bikes Direct: I got stonewalled and greeted with confusion by several other sources, but Bikes Direct answered my questions - within minutes - even though I had not bought the bike from them. I would have gone to them but they were out of stock on my size. I'm not saying hit them up for free tech support, but they've been responsive in the past and were again this time.

dmacke00

And the other parts from the bag....

The two rubber cable guides?
The screw with S-shape?
The four bolts?
the small and tiny adjustment screws?


And I was stuck for a long time on those cable guides in downtube. It was almost comical trying to remove them. Once I noticed the flared top - I snipped the flaring a little bit to pop it through.

techsensei

The pad is for the Di2 front derailleur set screw.

Eric_in_SD

Meaning if you use a clamp-on arrangement, as opposed to "brazed", the pad shields the frame?

For general information: Shimano publishes on its web site "service" manuals that go through the derailleur in exhaustive detail.

Eric_in_SD

Hm - I think you need to post a picture of the parts. There's an s-shaped piece of plastic, but it's not a screw, and is used to hold the cables together in front of the stem.
Note also the reply up-thread: Read the service manuals for the derailleurs. There's a wealth of info there.

Heh - I just gave mine a good yank and they went right through. It's silly because the hole at the bottom of the frame is so big, you don't even need the guides.

techsensei

Di2 front derailleurs are braze on mount. But yes, the pad is a shield, so the set screw doesn't dig into the frame.

dmacke00

these were extra parts....

Eric_in_SD

I took a look in the tech manual; you are correct. I will have to take another look at the installation to figure out why the pad isn't already installed.

Eric_in_SD

Someone else can probably be more definitive, but the cable guides are for where open cable goes along the frame, such as the rear derailleur cable.
The S clip is for the front cable sheaths.
I think the four bolts are for reflectors - like if you have different thickness handlebars or seat stem.
I didn't have the adjusting screws in my parts bag. Kinda freaky. Those actually look more like set screws than adjusting screws.

techsensei

The positioning of the pad would depend upon the size of the large chainring and in turn the mounting point of the front derailleur.

rms13

Actually for all Shimano braze on. At least current gen as my 5800 and 6800 mechanical came with them

techsensei

Yes of course, all the newer front derailleurs with the long cable fixing arm.

Eric_in_SD

Since y'all have more expertise than most I've come across, maybe you can answer: Why is the bike shipped with the front derailleur installed? Besides the fact that the chain goes through the derailleur, of course. Is there any other reason? It seems like it's half installed. And I'm guessing their are a whole lot of LBS grunts that don't even question whether the pads are installed.

spokedB

So glad to find this thread. The spare parts picture above looks like my kitchen table at the moment. I was also wondering why they routed the rear derailleur cable down the right side. I'm probably going to leave as is. edit: changed it

On the little metal pads, can you post up pics of where you ended up sticking them?

Also, the 2 little unidentified parts that appear to be set screws above are not.

edit: I think those 2 little items are just cable protectors. The rear derailleur cable has one on it already.Also, the 4 larger black screws are most likely water bottle cage mounting screws. Spare black ones.

revcp 

I don't have a pic, but in the derailleur you have a 2mm set screw that, when "tightened", pushes the rear of the cage out. The little metal pad goes on the frame where the set screw hits so it won't mar the frame or paint.

spokedB

Thanks, I got it all together and dropped it off at the LBS. I was having a hard time getting the derailleurs adjusted (frustrated), so I figured let the pros get it right.

I wanted someone that knows what they're doing to go over it all anyway.

revcp 

Yeah, thise front derailleurs are fiddly. The problem is usually that the cable tension is not high enough. Shops have a tool that can really crank on the cables. Once adjusted correctly it's magic.

spokedB

Yeah, I think you're right. I was yanking on it with needle nose, squeezing the arm and trying to tighten the nut with my lacking third hand.

gsa103

Inline adjusters can help. Back the low limit out, then tension and clamp. Use a adjuster to fine tune, then properly set the high and low limits.

By setting the tension with the derailleur intentionally inboard you can pre-compensate for low initial tension.

Eric_in_SD

FYI, Shimano has a tech manual for their derailleurs. It covers every imaginable aspect. Takes some digging but the manual you seek can be found.

spokedB

Yep, looks like they put in extra water bottle cage screws, cable end protectors and the electric shifting pads. I have it back from the LBS now and everything is adjusted and torqued and working perfect. Looks like warmer weather this week. Might actually get to try it out soon.

Eric_in_SD

Good.

Only reason I don't go to LBSs more often is I'm not entirely convinced they'd do it right. They ain't always exactly the brightest bulbs in the tree.

FYI, to tension the derailleur cable, don't pull directly on the cable. Instead, grip it with a needlenose just outside the clamp. Loosen the clamp and twist the needlenose until the cable is tight. Close the clamp, and then tighten with the barrel adjusters until the derailleur begins to move.

Bikes are pretty simple, and it "torques" me to see the manufacturers being all secretive because of their liability.