cazzooo

Does anybody know whether it is OK to use a star nut inside a carbon steerer tube?

sydney

No...Except in the case of CF steerers that are specificlly designed for one. Time use to pedal one that was, and there may be others.

jim-bob

I believe the word you're looking for is "peddle", not "pedal".

sydney

No...this is about bicycles not door to door toilet brush sales.

juicemouse

My LOOK fork has a carbon steerer and I got the bike it's on used. It had, and still does have, what looks like an oem aluminum nut in it. It doesn't look like the typical star nut, it's just a cylindrical piece of aluminum with vertical ridges on the outside. Not only does it pull out of the fork under normal headset tightening forces, but it's scaring the inside of the steerer a little in the process. I'd like to find a better solution, but the two LBSs I've taken it to have kinda discouraged the expander wedge. The better bike shop told me about some aftermarket solution where an aluminum tube is bonded into the steerer tube so that you can use any old star nut. Any suggestions?

sydney

There are different compreession bungs that can replce what you have, and don't have the little ridges. I have never had an issue with the standard Look bung on several bikes. The bonded in aluminum sleeve can also work if you want to go to the trouble.

Al1943

FSA makes a cost effective expansion plug with cap that works with nearly any carbon steerer. It's very easy to use and can be moved and re-set. Make sure you get the correct size, 1" or 1 1/8".
My LBS stocks these.

Al

sydney

They can even be sized differently depnding on if the steerer is CF,aluminum or steel. Get the one for correct steerer ID.

juicemouse

By "compression bungs", do you mean one of the expanding wedge things, like the FSA? I suspect that the headset was way overtightened by the previous owner, based the condition of the rest of the bike when I got it.

sydney

I have yet to see a compression bung that did not work on some some type of compression plug that caused it to expand and grip the steerer when the plug(not wedge) was pulled into the bae of it.The FSA I have has an 'O' ring around it that grips the steerer and may be more steerer friendly than the ridged Look bung. Unfortunately, hacks and morons do great damage to bicycles.

Al1943

The OP said he has carbon. A quick Google check found only 1 1/8" FSA compression plug.

https://gallery.bcentral.com/GID49468...sion-Plug.aspx

sydney

Mine for a 11/8" doesn't identify steerer material,but is marked for ID of 22-23mm. He could have a 1", and even CF steerers may vary in ID. I've always used the bung supplied by the fork maker and haven't had to deal with trying to match up aftermarket stuff.

blandin

This link to the FSA web site show that their carbon fork compressor it available in both 1" and 1 1/8" sizes. I have the 1" installed in my carbon fork and it works great.
https://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.as...xid=34&pid=248

Al1943

Good info!

Al

bmph8ter

Actually, it would be peddle. Time used to peddle (sell) one.

veneer

blandin.. can i use this on my cane creek IS2 headset? instead of using the star flange.. can i just use this? i have an alu. steerer

khuon

A compression plug will probably work on an aluminum steerer. Note that on a carbon steerer, most compression plugs are designed to not only allow you to preload the headset stack but also provides internal reinforcement of the steerer tube to prevent crushing by the stem's clamp. Depending on the fork, this is can be crucial. Other carbon steerers and/or stems are designed to spread out the load around the steerer tube's diameter more evenly. Regardless, you should always follow the proper torque specs. On an aluminum steerer, the need for internal reinforcement is probably not as crucial thus the only purpose for a top-bolt and starnut or compression plug is to set up the initial stack preload. In actuality you really don't even need it at all. I've seen mechanics simply compress the stack by hand, cinch up the stembolts and check that the stack has enough preload by rocking the bike with the front brake set to see if the headset moves. Of course having that big hole in the stem looks unsightly and there's that off-chance that the preload will lessen over time leading to a loose headset which can of course result in a damage. It's nice to have an easy ability to add back preload whenever it's needed. Most people insist on a top-cap.