Basic adjustment of Shimano 333
 

Hi all.
I've got a Shimano 333 on which someone has unscrewed the bell housing. And contrary to found info, there doesn't seem to be anything to indicate correct position.
I know how to set the little lever, but I'm assuming that with the bell housing out of position, that's why it's still not running cleanly.
Any pointers on how to align bell housing to push rod?

they had a window in the bell crank assembly .. 2nd gear is the one you use ,then screw the cable adjuster till the number is centered in the window.

if the part is gone you have to go find one.

The bell crank has (or had) a little stub sticking into the axle thread which limits how far onto the axle it threads. This then locates the bell crank and it's lever WRT the indicator rod end so that when in 2nd gear the red mark will be centered within the window. It this stubby is broken and/or the bell crank is threaded past this point the gear adjustment will be off if the red mark in window is followed. Another method for adjusting the cable/gears is to use the cable adjuster so that 2nd gear is lost and 1st gear starts to engage. mark that point on the adjuster threaded shaft then back off the adjuster past 2nd gear and into the start of 3rd engaging. The half way point between 1st and 3rd is about where you want the adjuster to be for a centered 2nd. The bell crank usually has a thin lock nut which helps to keep the bell crank in place when removing the wheel. Andy.

To clarify:
- I've got all the parts
- the bell crank have been loosened on the axle. The thin nut no longer holds in it place.
- I suspect it's out of position. Either too far in, or too far out.
- as a consequence, those pointers about the symbol in the window in 2nd gear doesn't work to get the wheel to run cleanly.
- I'd like to "reset" the hub, so that the normal adjustment method can be used
- however, there's nothing to indicate how far onto the axle to mount the bell crank.
- I was hoping there was a basic setup instruction somewhere using perhaps the axle end as a reference, to save me a tedious assembly/disassembly sequence to get the adjustment right.

read Andrew's post above yours.