silent_chief

I believe my headset is starting to show signs of indexing. Turning while riding is no problem, nor is there any noise or vibration. However, while in the stand, the bars tend to naturally revert to a straight ahead position. They are caged bearings, which I've greased liberally. I also don't believe the headset is too tight.

Here's my question; I've never replaced a headset before. This is a steel frame with (what I believe) is a standard 1" threadless headset. I don't have the tools, but I've done the reading and I am pretty confident on using the home made solutions and that I can pull it off.... but do I need to? Steering isn't a problem, but do I chance any damage to the frame or other parts of the bike? Besides scratching my natural OCD itch to tinker, what dangers do I run by continuing to ride? I'm leaning towards saving this for a winter project, but this is also my rain bike/ kid hauler/ frequent commuter...

dr_lha

Before replacing the headset, try replacing the bearing cages with loose ball bearings, which often fixes the issue. See Sheldon for details:

Servicing Bicycle Headsets

corrado33

This. Or replaced the caged bearings with caged bearings that have a different number of balls. That also fixes it. ​Replacing the bearings with loose bearings will, 98% of the time, fix it. Do that first.

Indexing is EXTREMELY obvious. If you can't feel it when you turn the handlebars back and forth, it's not indexed. There is absolutely no danger in continuing to ride. An indexed headset is still a perfectly functional headset. The only "danger" is that the wheel may want to stay straight if you're trying to balance no-handed.

HillRider

Standard headset replacement can be done with improvised tools;

A long punch and hammer to drive the cups out of the headtube,
A punch and hammer to knock the crown race off the the steerer
A length of all-thread rod, big washers and nuts to press in the cups (or even a block of wood and a hammer).
A length of pipe to set the new crown race or even the hammer and punch approach.

That said, the proper tools do make the job both easier and "safer".

However, for a one time job, it's probably more efficient both from a cost and damage-prevention standpoint to let the LBS do the job. If you purchase the new headset from them, the installation cost may be very reasonable.

silent_chief

Excellent, thank you both. Loose bearings sound a little tricky just in terms of getting the buggers lined up and in there, but I'll do that and save it for my next down time project.

HillRider

Apply a bead of grease to both cups and use it to "glue" the loose balls in place as you assemble the headset. It's not that difficult. Also, you will need a few additional balls to fill the races without the retainers. The general rule is to add a full circle of balls and remove one.

corrado33

Loose bearings are actually the "correct" way to do it. Cages are a cost saving measure.

This is the way to do it. With the thick grease the balls won't move anywhere. It's also useful to flip the bike upside down then put the fork into the lower race (with the balls in place), then hold the fork in place and flip the bike to do the top.

Miele Man

I've salvaged many a caged indexing headset by putting in loose balls rather than the original caged ones. Or vice versa.

As far as removing headset cups goes. A neat tool to do that can be quickly made from an old steel seat post or even a new steel seatpost.

Tool With Lower Cup Removed by Miele Man, on Flickr

Cheers

rmfnla

Nasty crack on that top tube...

SkyDog75

...or 3/4" steel electrical conduit if you don't have a sacrificial seatpost and your local hardware store is more convenient than your local bike shop.

AnkleWork

Since that's the only symptom, maybe confirm that it is not caused by something else like the springiness of the cables.

Miele Man

Sure was. that's why Iremoved the headset and had that tube replaced later. it's a really nice Columbus SL frame.

Cheers

FullGas

in the last couple of weeks, I've noticed my Chris King 2Nut hs is developing a distinct 'notch' at the 12:00 position.

since the bearing cages are not user-removable, a new CK hs is $150, and I never ride no-hands, I'm just gonna live with it.

HillRider

Chris King has a 10 year warranty and beyond that will repair their headsets at much less than the cost of a new one.

rmfnla

Sometimes you do get what you pay for...

HillRider

Yeah, my CK headset is slightly over 10 years and 34,000 miles and is as smooth as the day it was installed.

FullGas

the hs is from 1998 and I'm not the original purchaser so not sure I quality for their warranty.

and the external surfaces of the headset don't look at that great at this point, so I'd probably opt for a new one.

also, I was just hit by a car about an hour ago (motorist's fault)...the DA C24 wheels and carbon SLR saddle are now junk...need to find out if the frame / fork were damaged before worrying about the hs.

crap.

rmfnla

Mine's close to that and just as smooth.

I rarely regret buying the good stuff...