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What lubrication should be on the chain?

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What lubrication should be on the chain?

Old 04-21-16, 05:19 PM
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I've taken to giving my chain a blast of wd40 to clean it prior to oiling on the theory that wd40 is light enough to flush out dirty oil (and any moisture that might be there) and then help the thick chain oil wick into where it needs to be. Someday I'm gonna get me some of that chain-L...

BTW, I don't think the oil on a chain needs to be where there are large gaps (or on cogs and sprockets) but where there are tiny gaps between pins, plates and rollers. Is that correct?
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Old 04-21-16, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by asmac
Someday I'm gonna get me some of that chain-L...
I said that for years and finally did it. Can't believe I waited. It really is that good.
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Old 04-21-16, 05:52 PM
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for a new chain, I wipe it down with an old t-shirt and then apply Chain-L and let sit overnite.

wipe again and then enjoy a very quiet and smooth drive-train for many hundreds of miles...
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Old 04-21-16, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Ronno6
I'm hooked on Chain-L
Just get some Chain L and be done. It is much like a Salad, potatoe, steak, with some pie for dessert. You might find many diffent meals that are good but why take a chance when you know what makes a meal.
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Old 04-21-16, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert P
When the bike is new, there's a coating of grease on the chain, at least on bikes I've ever encountered. However, there are these waxy liquid chain lubes like White Lightning Clean Ride. To use something like this should the grease be completely cleaned off the chain and gears?
The factory grease is great - I had 1200 miles on my current chain when it stopped running silently, and 1800 on the last one. Leave it alone.

When you must lubricate, White Lightning works fine without degreasing the chain.

Whether you should use it is an orthogonal issue. It means your chain won't be as greasy, although you'll still have black dust from wear which can get your pants dirty. It doesn't last as long as liquid lubricant, which is especially significant in rainy weather where you might get just 100 road miles. Links with dry lube are more likely to quickly become noisy without going through a noticeable "no longer silent" phase which is inconvenient on long rides. It makes white spots not grease spots on the ground/garage floor; although with a master link it's easy enough to remove the chain you could lube it atop an old paper grocery bag or newspaper.

What do you consider to be the best chain lube?
The one which you'll apply as needed.

Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 04-21-16 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 04-21-16, 07:02 PM
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My preference is to strip the chain prior to waxing. I use ultrasonic cleaner: mineral spirits, denatured alcohol, mineral spirits, final is lacquer thinner (10 min on each).

scott s.
.
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Old 04-21-16, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by asmac
BTW, I don't think the oil on a chain needs to be where there are large gaps (or on cogs and sprockets) but where there are tiny gaps between pins, plates and rollers. Is that correct?
I believe this is correct - the lubricant, ideally, should be between the pin and the roller. And, ideally, there is no relative motion between the cassette cog and roller. The only motion is between the pin and roller. Please, note, I said "ideally". And NO, I do not put a tiny drop of oil on each roller hoping it gets into the pin. I pretty much hose the chain down with T-9 Boesheild and give it a quick wipe. And I only do that when things are squeaking. I try to keep my bikes clean, but I gotta say, I'm loving fenders now-a days.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycl...lenketting.gif
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Old 04-21-16, 09:28 PM
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Whatever is in the original chain oil when new is the best stuff there is.

For my road bikes: I, to, leave a new chain alone for as long as possible. I then thoroughly clean it in solvent and let it dry for days after I blow it off with compressed air. If there is any gritty feeling, I repeat. I then thoroughly lube/drench the chain with oil, let it sit for a couple of days and wipe it as clean and dry as I can. Unless there is obvious dirt on it I don't mess with it or re-oil until the next major cleaning, which is about once a year. The roller bearings are what wear, not the outside of the chain so much. The light residual oil left on the outside keeps the chainring and cog wear to a minimum.

For my mountain bike: Same deal, leave new chain oil on then clean in solvent, etc, etc but I use a dry lubricant not an oil. I soak the chain as directed every few rides and let it dry before riding.

My chains last a long time as do the chainrings and cogs.

Last edited by drlogik; 04-21-16 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 04-21-16, 09:44 PM
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I don't ride too long of a distances being 75, but I do ride everyday. I have been using synthetic motor oil since I ran out if 3 in 1 oil which I believe is for bike chains. One quart of synthetic motor oil lasts a long time.
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Old 04-22-16, 07:32 AM
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