Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

What does this mean for my new right crankarm vs. front derailleur?

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

What does this mean for my new right crankarm vs. front derailleur?

Old 05-15-16, 09:25 PM
  #1  
bikerbobbbb
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 512
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 100 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
What does this mean for my new right crankarm vs. front derailleur?

I replaced the chain ring/crankarm, trying to match parts as exactly as possible.

The crankarm is on and torque to spec. I don't think it will push on to the post farther. I cleaned off the post before I put the arm on, and I used some grease on the crankarm (maybe not enough?).


The problem now is that the front derailleur doesn't push the chain out far enough to the right to get on the largest chain ring.

I tried messing with the two screws on top that should control left and right extremes. That's somewhat my concern. The one that seemed to control "out to the right" didn't push the derailleur any more to the right. I tried the other one and even unscrewed it all the way.

I burned out on youtube videos.

Is this something those two adjustment screws should cover or is more of a cable tension issue? ...Or is that other screw toward the front of the bike from the two smaller adjustment screws? I haven't done anything with that one.


Other questions.... If I do end up stripping the head on the two smaller adjustment screws, can I buy those separately (vs. having to buy a whole new front derailleur)?

Is there any realistic chance that the front chain ring sticks out too far and my current derailleur just can't reach that far out?


I'm leaning toward that frontmost screw now. My brain's fried from the youtube videos though. It's either that front screw or the cable tension.

I did notice when I shift down to the smallest gear on front now, there's some slack in the cable. While I was working on the crankarms, I also went over some parts of the frame body with paper towels, a rough sponge, and soap/water. There could be crud pushed in somewhere.
bikerbobbbb is offline  
Old 05-15-16, 09:35 PM
  #2  
AnkleWork
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Llano Estacado
Posts: 3,306

Bikes: old clunker

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 540 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 25 Times in 15 Posts
Originally Posted by bikerbobbbb View Post
. . . I tried messing with the two screws on top . . .
. . . If I do end up stripping the head on the two smaller adjustment screws . . .
That's funny. "Messing" does not seem like the prescribed procedure.
AnkleWork is offline  
Old 05-15-16, 09:58 PM
  #3  
SkyDog75
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 3,808

Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others

Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 632 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by bikerbobbbb View Post
I replaced the chain ring/crankarm, trying to match parts as exactly as possible... The problem now is that the front derailleur doesn't push the chain out far enough to the right to get on the largest chain ring...

Is there any realistic chance that the front chain ring sticks out too far and my current derailleur just can't reach that far out?
Different model crank arms can be designed for bottom bracket spindles of varying length. If your bike's bottom bracket spindle is too long for your particular crank arm, the chainrings will likely sit too far outboard like you're describing. You can measure the chainline with a ruler as described on Sheldon Brown's web site to see if your chainrings are sitting too far outboard.

(I'm assuming we're talking about a square taper bottom bracket and crankset here, but if you were to post what make & model your crankset is and what your bottom bracket spindle length is, we might not have to make assumptions and could offer more accurate help.)
SkyDog75 is offline  
Old 05-15-16, 10:21 PM
  #4  
willie52
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 52
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Slack in the cable when in low, then it won't push far enough to the right to move it enough. OR, since youtube is so daunting, go to the LBS nearest you, and ASK . Unless you've been banned from all the LBS in your area.
willie52 is offline  
Old 05-15-16, 10:57 PM
  #5  
d4vide
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I would pull on the fd cable by hand and see how far it throws the chain, if it now throws the chain off the big ring it's telling you that your cable wasn't tight enough ( and you'll need to screw your limit screw back in). If you cannot get the fd to do this (assuming its aligned correctly) then you most prob have a campatability issue. I would bring it to lbs anyhoo, fds can do your head in if you don't deal with them daily.
d4vide is offline  
Old 05-16-16, 04:12 AM
  #6  
dsaul
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,039
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 237 Post(s)
Liked 32 Times in 23 Posts
Those screws are limit screws and they stop the derailleur from moving in a particular direction. Unhook the cable and push the derailleur toward the big chainring. Look to see which screw is stopping it from moving any further and loosen it until the derailleur moves far enough. Let go of the derailleur and see which screw stops it from moving inward. Loosen or tighten that screw until it is centered over the small chainring. Re-attach the cable and adjust the tension.

Of course all of this assumes that you have not installed a bottom bracket that puts the chainrings out of reach of the derailleur.
dsaul is offline  
Old 05-16-16, 09:44 AM
  #7  
mulveyr 
Senior Member
 
mulveyr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: In the wilds of NY
Posts: 1,570

Bikes: Box Dog Pelican, Raleigh Sojourn, Specialized Secteur, 1991 Cannondale tandem

Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by bikerbobbbb View Post
I replaced the chain ring/crankarm, trying to match parts as exactly as possible.

The crankarm is on and torque to spec. I don't think it will push on to the post farther. I cleaned off the post before I put the arm on, and I used some grease on the crankarm (maybe not enough?).


The problem now is that the front derailleur doesn't push the chain out far enough to the right to get on the largest chain ring.

I tried messing with the two screws on top that should control left and right extremes. That's somewhat my concern. The one that seemed to control "out to the right" didn't push the derailleur any more to the right. I tried the other one and even unscrewed it all the way.

I burned out on youtube videos.

Is this something those two adjustment screws should cover or is more of a cable tension issue? ...Or is that other screw toward the front of the bike from the two smaller adjustment screws? I haven't done anything with that one.


Other questions.... If I do end up stripping the head on the two smaller adjustment screws, can I buy those separately (vs. having to buy a whole new front derailleur)?

Is there any realistic chance that the front chain ring sticks out too far and my current derailleur just can't reach that far out?


I'm leaning toward that frontmost screw now. My brain's fried from the youtube videos though. It's either that front screw or the cable tension.

I did notice when I shift down to the smallest gear on front now, there's some slack in the cable. While I was working on the crankarms, I also went over some parts of the frame body with paper towels, a rough sponge, and soap/water. There could be crud pushed in somewhere.
In addition to the other responses, be aware that the limit screws on Japanese RD's ( like Shimano ) are JIS, not Phillips. They look like Phillips. They'll even act like Phillips if there's not much tension on them. But if you use a Phillips driver on them with any force, they'll strip the heads. And it's a royal PITA to get replacements. ( Don't ask how I know! ) Much cheaper to buy a set of proper JIS screwdrivers from Amazon.
__________________
Knows the weight of my bike to the nearest 10 pounds.
mulveyr is offline  
Old 05-16-16, 09:54 AM
  #8  
Bill Kapaun
Senior Member
 
Bill Kapaun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Posts: 10,800

Bikes: 86 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds.

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 661 Post(s)
Liked 26 Times in 22 Posts
You simply need a longer BB for that crank.
Older bikes "tended" to use longer spindles.

Remove the tension off the limit screws before turning them. Besides stripping screw heads, you'll wear the internal threads in the DER since they tend to be relatively "soft" aluminum.
They are LIMIT screws, NOT :jacking" screws.
Adjust H limit with DER NOT on largest ring and L limit with chain NOT on the smallest ring.
Bill Kapaun is offline  
Old 05-16-16, 02:49 PM
  #9  
Ronno6
Senior Member
 
Ronno6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Deep South
Posts: 1,264

Bikes: Cannondale SR's and ST's from the '80's

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 284 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
You simply need a longer BB for that crank.
Older bikes "tended" to use longer spindles.
Would that not exacerbate the problem by moving the chainrings farther out yet?
Ronno6 is offline  
Old 05-16-16, 03:20 PM
  #10  
Bill Kapaun
Senior Member
 
Bill Kapaun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Posts: 10,800

Bikes: 86 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds.

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 661 Post(s)
Liked 26 Times in 22 Posts
Originally Posted by Ronno6 View Post
Would that not exacerbate the problem by moving the chainrings farther out yet?
Correct. I was thinking "backwards".
Another case of responding before I've had my 2nd cup of coffee.

One wonders about "the rest of the story".
Did he service a cup & cone BB at the same time and get the spindle in backwards?
Bill Kapaun is offline  
Old 05-16-16, 03:30 PM
  #11  
corrado33
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Bozeman
Posts: 4,112

Bikes: 199? Landshark Roadshark, 198? Mondonico Diamond, 1987 Panasonic DX-5000, 1987 Bianchi Limited, Univega... Chrome..., 1989 Schwinn Woodlands, Motobecane USA Record, Raleigh Tokul 2

Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1125 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by bikerbobbbb View Post
I replaced the chain ring/crankarm, trying to match parts as exactly as possible.

The crankarm is on and torque to spec. I don't think it will push on to the post farther. I cleaned off the post before I put the arm on, and I used some grease on the crankarm (maybe not enough?).


The problem now is that the front derailleur doesn't push the chain out far enough to the right to get on the largest chain ring.

I tried messing with the two screws on top that should control left and right extremes. That's somewhat my concern. The one that seemed to control "out to the right" didn't push the derailleur any more to the right. I tried the other one and even unscrewed it all the way.

I burned out on youtube videos.

Is this something those two adjustment screws should cover or is more of a cable tension issue? ...Or is that other screw toward the front of the bike from the two smaller adjustment screws? I haven't done anything with that one.


Other questions.... If I do end up stripping the head on the two smaller adjustment screws, can I buy those separately (vs. having to buy a whole new front derailleur)?

Is there any realistic chance that the front chain ring sticks out too far and my current derailleur just can't reach that far out?


I'm leaning toward that frontmost screw now. My brain's fried from the youtube videos though. It's either that front screw or the cable tension.

I did notice when I shift down to the smallest gear on front now, there's some slack in the cable. While I was working on the crankarms, I also went over some parts of the frame body with paper towels, a rough sponge, and soap/water. There could be crud pushed in somewhere.

Your cable tension is too low. Shift to the lowest gear, disconnect the cable and pull it tight, then reconnect it. Try shifting then. Only do this if you know how to properly adjust your derailleurs or you'll have gears that don't shift correctly.
corrado33 is offline  
Old 05-16-16, 03:37 PM
  #12  
Bill Kapaun
Senior Member
 
Bill Kapaun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Posts: 10,800

Bikes: 86 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds.

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 661 Post(s)
Liked 26 Times in 22 Posts
IF you've got the-
L screw backed out
+
Slack in the cable
+ the chain doesn't fall off the small ring
=
BB spindle too long for that crank.
Bill Kapaun is offline  
Old 05-16-16, 03:40 PM
  #13  
corrado33
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Bozeman
Posts: 4,112

Bikes: 199? Landshark Roadshark, 198? Mondonico Diamond, 1987 Panasonic DX-5000, 1987 Bianchi Limited, Univega... Chrome..., 1989 Schwinn Woodlands, Motobecane USA Record, Raleigh Tokul 2

Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1125 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
IF you've got the-
L screw backed out
+
Slack in the cable
+ the chain doesn't fall off the small ring
=
BB spindle too long for that crank.
That seems... backwards? A too long spindle would mean the chain would fall off easily, a too short spindle would mean the chain CAN'T fall off even if the L screw is backed off and cable is off. Am I wrong?

Too long spindle = chainrings further from BB. Too short = chainrings possibly hitting chainstay?

The OP may have also have just found the two different types of square tapers. JIS vs. ISO.
corrado33 is offline  
Old 05-16-16, 03:52 PM
  #14  
Bill Kapaun
Senior Member
 
Bill Kapaun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
Posts: 10,800

Bikes: 86 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds.

Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 661 Post(s)
Liked 26 Times in 22 Posts
Originally Posted by corrado33 View Post
That seems... backwards? A too long spindle would mean the chain would fall off easily, a too short spindle would mean the chain CAN'T fall off even if the L screw is backed off and cable is off. Am I wrong?

Too long spindle = chainrings further from BB. Too short = chainrings possibly hitting chainstay?

The OP may have also have just found the two different types of square tapers. JIS vs. ISO.
I did it again.
I'd better go back to the tractor forum for the rest of the day-
Bill Kapaun is offline  
Old 05-16-16, 03:56 PM
  #15  
fietsbob 
coprolite
 
fietsbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Posts: 41,632

Bikes: 8

Mentioned: 188 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6838 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 216 Times in 180 Posts
Low Profile . the crank comes in to meet the shorter BB other designs need a different length.. the straight arm types need a Longer BB.

My touring triple the granny gear sits just over, above the edge of the fixed Cup..
fietsbob is offline  
Old 05-16-16, 06:15 PM
  #16  
bikerbobbbb
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 512
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 100 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I didn't replace the bottom bracket. Just the crankarms/chainring. I wiped muck away when I had the crankarms off and the bottom bracket looked better than I was expecting. Tight. Not water dripping out like I saw in videos.
I put a thin layer of grease all the way around the bottom bracket pin that stick out that the crankarm goes on. I also put a thin layer on the inside of the crankarm. Maybe it wasn't enough. I saw I'm supposed to do that so it moves up as far as possible on the bottom bracket pin. I put about 500 in or foot pounds of torque on it though so I doubt it would go on any further.
If the bottom bracket pins are too long, then the solution is a new bottom bracket.... with shorter pins somehow.
Otherwise I need to check more about moving the chain up to the largest chain ring by hand. I did that initially though I think and it wouldn't stay up there.
After that, I can see how far the front derailleur moves to the outside. I was trying to do that with the screws a bit yesterday and last night. If it can't move out far enough
I wonder if the specs on the original or new chain ring/arm have the width....
I could also disconnect the shifter cable and start from scratch. My plan was to swap out the chain ring part 1:1 though, so I wouldn't have to mess with the derailleur.

The bike still works though. Shifting isn't perfect, but I can shift between the middle and smallest ring. I notice what I think is the old chain not quite matching up with the new teeth. There's a certain click sound/feel to that. I also notice I've got a lot more grip with the new teeth. I can put more pressure on the pedals. When my chain tool gets restored hopefully I can finally swap out the chain.

Trying to compare the chain rings...
My bike specs...
2009 Raleigh Detour 4.5 - BikePedia
Crankset Shimano FC-M191, 28/38/48 teeth
But what's the width?
http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830657743.pdf
-- This page does have applicable front derailleur... FD-T301 (if it goes by column...)
My bike specs page says my front derailleur is Shimano C51.
And the bottom bracket is BB-UN26.
(I already bought the tools to remove and replace my bottom bracket I think.)
Dang... Tightening torque on the front chainwheel is supposed to be 305-435in lbs. I just did the repair and didn't check each step. I was thinking bottom bracket specs I guess... I used 500in lbs as my target. So I torqued it too much. Besides damage that would only push the crankarm even more though.
http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830657743.pdf
Bottom bracket spindle length.... Maybe this is it. D-NL (122.5 mm)
I wonder how you buy a bottom bracket, exact same build, but have the square tapered pin (spindle?) be something like 10mm shorter... And shorter on the right side. There aren't any issues with the left side. If this is slightly (10mm on each side) out farther that's not something I'd notice by feel.


This is exactly what I've got on now...
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-FC-M36...ano+Acera+M361
Shimano M361 Hybrid Crankset (Black)
170mm, whatever the teeth are, with a chainguard
Shimano M361
http://cycle.shimano.co.kr/media/tec...9830667768.PDF
Hm... Applicable bottom bracket... BB-UN26 (-K) ... which has a spindle length of LL113 (E) <-- If this is the issue, then it actually is 9.5mm? I was only a half mm off in my estimate of how much longer the new one is?
With a different recommended front derailleur than what I've got... (I wonder if you can mix front and rear derailleurs.. I wouldn't see why not...)
Which means potentially I just buy a new bottom bracket and this problem is solved...
Shimano BB-UN26 (-K)
Might be useful...
http://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-me...-brackets.html
"K= Chain case mount" ...whatever that means....
Shimano BB-UN26 (-K) specs....
http://bike.shimano.com/media/techdo...9830694234.pdf

Something here, but I have no idea what the different numbers mean...
Amazon.com : Shimano BB-UN26 Square taper Bottom Bracket : Bottom Bike Brackets And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors
Shimano BB-UN26 Square taper Bottom Bracket

And I read messing up the bottom bracket (ie loose) can damage the bike frame. Then the whole bike is shot I would think.
There did appear to be plenty of space on the bottom bracket spindle. There was before. There still is now. I wouldn't have noticed a 10mm difference.
So the original spindle was/is 122.5mm.
Specs on the new crankset - to bottom bracket (BB-UN26(-K) -- might give me a length of LL113 (E) ...If I'm reading these columns correctly on the spec sheet...
- Because I also see... BB-UN26 (-K) listed on the right with LL123(K). ie The same length as the original spindle arm.
http://cycle.shimano.co.kr/media/tec...9830667768.PDF

Amazon only seems to list E and there's a D-NL there with 122.5mm....
???
"Shimano UN26 bottom bracket features a plastic left hand cup."
I'm pretty sure I read to avoid plastic on the bottom bracket... besides that just being common sense. That doesn't sound like a good place for plastic.
Or I measure my current bottom bracket... diameter and spindle width.... Then just decide how much I want to knock off the spindle width....

This is going to take more research. If it's a $10-20 repair, that might be easier than messing with shifting on the front derailleur. Change shifting in the front... then the back will be different (plus I saw I'm supposed to perfect the rear shifter settings first before working on the front...)
Some kind of precise measuring tool like the one guy measuring the rear wheel hub for spokes might be useful too.

Interesting...
http://f.lnwfile.com/_/f/_raw/ew/4f/w0.jpg

My current thinking is my original bottom bracket spindle length is 122.5mm. But my new crankset/arms want a 113mm spindle length instead.
Or not... And then I looked at the bike again...
bikerbobbbb is offline  
Old 05-16-16, 06:33 PM
  #17  
bikerbobbbb
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 512
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 100 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
So I just looked at the bike... No gap on the right chainring side....




So there's no more space on the right spindle... Making it shorter isn't an option.


Unless the spindle goes all the way through the bottom bracket. Or maybe someone else installed it backwards. (They sold me a hub that wasn't a perfect match to my bike frame. Why not a backwards bottom bracket too? If that's the case [how to tell?], all what I'd have to do is remove and flip it around. No parts needed.) How do I know if my bottom bracket is in backwards? I did notice there's maybe 1mm of thread sticking out on each side, if that's normal.


Other options...
Adjust the front derailleur. Or buy a new front derailleur if this current one can't reach.
Leave it how it is. I just wouldn't be able to use the largest sprocket which sucks.
Get a different chain ring. This one looked right though. The rings are replaceable. Maybe that's why it's wider, if this is wider....
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
1 - Copy.jpg (93.4 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg
2 - Copy.jpg (94.3 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg
4 - Copy.jpg (80.8 KB, 41 views)
bikerbobbbb is offline  
Old 05-17-16, 06:45 AM
  #18  
blakcloud 
Senior Member
 
blakcloud's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 1,900

Bikes: Rivendell Sam Hillborne, Brompton S/M3L (modified), custom Winter Cycles

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 311 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 6 Posts
Maybe your next step should be cleaning all the sand and gunk off the front derailleur and see if that helps. A clean bike is a happy bike. It also allows you to inspect the component and see if there is any obvious damage, or worn out parts.
blakcloud is offline  
Old 05-17-16, 09:11 AM
  #19  
RubeRad
Keepin it Wheel
 
RubeRad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: San Diego
Posts: 8,563

Bikes: Surly CrossCheck, Moto Fantom29 ProSL hardtail

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 56 Times in 43 Posts
Originally Posted by bikerbobbbb View Post
Is this something those two adjustment screws should cover or is more of a cable tension issue?
You (and most everybody else here but corrado33) seem focused on the high and low limit screws, but it seems to me pretty clear this is a cable tension issue. You should have a barrel adjuster somewhere that would allow you to take up some slack and get the shifter to travel further to the right.
RubeRad is offline  
Old 05-17-16, 09:50 AM
  #20  
Ronno6
Senior Member
 
Ronno6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Deep South
Posts: 1,264

Bikes: Cannondale SR's and ST's from the '80's

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 284 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
A pic of the cable attachment to the FD may be helpful.
There may be a tab alongside the cable fixing bolt.
If there is, make certain that the shift cable is routed over this tab;
that is to say, NOT between the tab and the fixing bolt.
If improperly routed, there is no way that the derailleur cage will move out far enough to
ramp onto the big chainring.
Ronno6 is offline  
Old 05-17-16, 10:26 AM
  #21  
jyl
Senior Member
 
jyl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 7,515

Bikes: 61 Bianchi Specialissima 71 Peugeot G50 7? P'geot PX10 74 Raleigh GranSport 75 P'geot UO8 78? Raleigh Team Pro 82 P'geot PSV 86 P'geot PX 91 Bridgestone MB0 92 B'stone XO1 97 Rans VRex 92 Cannondale R1000 94 B'stone MB5 97 Vitus 997

Mentioned: 124 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 337 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Start with post 18, then post 5, then post 20.
jyl is offline  
Old 05-17-16, 12:14 PM
  #22  
bikerbobbbb
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 512
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 100 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Good sign I suppose. I tried pushing the chain up the largest chain ring by hand. This time it stayed there for a while. So I'm thinking I can adjust the derailleur and get this to work. I went about a half mile and it stayed in place. The front shifter won't push it onto the largest ring at all though. And then eventually it knocks it off.

I'm thinking it must be something with the cable then if twisting those screws didn't have any effect. Or it's gunk on the shifting parts.

I also tried pulling it by finger over, but that's as far out as the shifter piece will go.


I'm eager for the chain tool pieces to come in so I can swap out the chain finally. The new chain ring and cassette feel very nice. The old chain isn't lining up though so it makes a unique clicking sound (also wearing out the new teeth...).
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
1 - Copy.jpg (60.9 KB, 20 views)
bikerbobbbb is offline  
Old 05-17-16, 12:28 PM
  #23  
corrado33
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Bozeman
Posts: 4,112

Bikes: 199? Landshark Roadshark, 198? Mondonico Diamond, 1987 Panasonic DX-5000, 1987 Bianchi Limited, Univega... Chrome..., 1989 Schwinn Woodlands, Motobecane USA Record, Raleigh Tokul 2

Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1125 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by bikerbobbbb View Post
Good sign I suppose. I tried pushing the chain up the largest chain ring by hand. This time it stayed there for a while. So I'm thinking I can adjust the derailleur and get this to work. I went about a half mile and it stayed in place. The front shifter won't push it onto the largest ring at all though. And then eventually it knocks it off.

I'm thinking it must be something with the cable then if twisting those screws didn't have any effect. Or it's gunk on the shifting parts.

I also tried pulling it by finger over, but that's as far out as the shifter piece will go.


I'm eager for the chain tool pieces to come in so I can swap out the chain finally. The new chain ring and cassette feel very nice. The old chain isn't lining up though so it makes a unique clicking sound (also wearing out the new teeth...).
The derailleur goes over plenty far. My guess is that you're FINALLY hitting the high limit screw.

But, I will repeat myself again. Your cable tension is too low. Shift to the smallest chainring, loosen the cable attachment, pull the cable tight, then tighten the cable attachment again. I bet it will work if you do that.
corrado33 is offline  
Old 05-17-16, 12:39 PM
  #24  
Ronno6
Senior Member
 
Ronno6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Deep South
Posts: 1,264

Bikes: Cannondale SR's and ST's from the '80's

Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 284 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by corrado33 View Post

But, I will repeat myself again. Your cable tension is too low. Shift to the smallest chainring, loosen the cable attachment, pull the cable tight, then tighten the cable attachment again. I bet it will work if you do that.
Maybe you need to write a song with this as the refrain verse........................
with a catchy enough tune it might get stuck in his head and sink in.
Ronno6 is offline  
Old 05-17-16, 01:52 PM
  #25  
Miele Man
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,894
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 229 Post(s)
Liked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Also, you can try CLEANING that derailler as the way it is now a lot of stuff on it could be interfering with the movememt not to mention the added wear and tear that gunks does to the parts.

BTW, is your cable rubbing on the kickstand attachments?

Cheers
Miele Man is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.