Bike Forums - Can't set up my Campagnolo front derailleur correctly 2

The number of clicks is relevant though.
On older levers one could be a bit more laissez faire, on newer ones, not so much ...

If a "fourth click" is used, we often find that the repeated strain of the last "click" up to the big ring, with the FD coming up against the limit screw whilst the user is still leaning on the upshift lever, can lead to upshift lever failure.

Before crashing into questions about limit screws and cable tension, other, more fundamental questions need to be checked on first in all these cases - so instead of starting in the middle of a process, start at step 1.

In most cases of more recent frames you can take it for granted that frame geometry is right - Campagnolo don't demand anything out of the way or significantly different to Shimano / SRAM - but older frames that may not be the case and some straight-from-China no-name frames can be odd. There are a couple of name brands, too, where the adherence to specification is a bit sketchy in places.

Is the frame compliant with the specification?

The specs you need are all in the Technical Manuals at the Campagnolo website. The specs have not changed significantly since 2009.

If the chainstays are shorter than 405 mm, you may hit problems.
Is the BB drop is too great or too shallow? This affects the seat angle relative to the chainstay angle. Out-of-spec dimensions here change the relative path the chain takes past the FD, so you may hit problems.
If there is a braze-on mount for the FD, is it in the right place - don't take it for granted that it is - frame makers put them in some positively bizarre places from time to time.
If a FD clip is in use - does it correctly position the Fd relative to the seat tube? Not all do.
Is the FD mounting solid - some are extremely flexible and that can cause issues with FD function.
Is the rear hanger compliant? If the hanger "hook" is in the wrong place and the chain is set with the prescribed 10 - 15 mm "gap" between idler run and top-jockey wrap-around in the "small to small" combination, you may end up with too little chain tension. This can affect FD set-up.

Once those things are checked -

Is it a Campagnolo chainset, chainrings and chain?
Make sure the rings are correctly paired - 50/34, 52/36, 53/39 are the common pairings. There are others that have been offered historically.
Once installed, is the chainline correct?

Is it a compatible FD? Different years / lever / FD combinations have required different FDs as actualtions have changed over the years - most significantly, pre 2006 FDs never worked correctly with Quickshift (QS) LH levers, UltraShift / PowerShift levers do not correctly shift QS FDs - a spacer plate (FD-CE011) is needed to correct the problem.

Instal the levers and make sure that when cabling:
Campagnolo, not 3rd party cables, inner and outer.
Cable ends are cut and ground properly square and that there is as little friction as possible in the cable housings. Do not lubricate - Campagnolo cables do not require it.
Metal ferrules where ferrules are needed - where no ferrule is needed - no ferrule.
If you have nylon under-BB tunnels, make sure that they are correctly alihned and can't twist - also that they are properly flush to the BB shell - if there is a gap, part of your initial shift effort F and R will be going to flattening the tunnels against the BB shell.
If the tunnels are brazed on or cast-in, you may need short lengths of PTFE tubing to smooth the cable run over the shell.
Avoid "California Cross" under the downtube unless the frame / cable guide system is designed for it. Many frames are deliberately made to minimise cable friction by correct alignment of guides (e.g. Cervelo) - California Cross can negate that.
If you have internal cabling, make 110% sure cables are not crossed or twisted inside the downtube.
If the FD cable emerges from under the BB and touches or rubs on the frame where it emerges, so putting an angle in it at that point, or if it is pulled across the back of the return spring on the FD in bottom gear, so putting a "dog-leg" in it, you may again need to use FD-CE011 to straighten out the cable run so that initial tension pulled on by the lever is not doing that.

Make sure that the cassette is within the range allowable for both front and rear derailleurs - FDs have a tooth capacity and a max / min size of rear sprocket because the angle that the chain comes off the top of the chainring back towards the cassette varies with both biggest and smallest sprockets - the chain needs to be passing the right part of the derailleur cage plates, for the derailleur to function as designed.

Once you have sorted all of that out (and I'd be typing exactly the same info for Shimano or SRAM with the obvious substitutions for different materials, basic set-up), it's no different if you want to do the job properly), then you can start adjusting the FD ...

The key things with correct FD set up are height and alignment, followed by limit screws, followed by cable tension.
You can use UT-FD020, a Campagnolo tool, to help you to set FD height and alignment but broadly, the part of the outer cage plate opposite the hinge needs to be parallel to the chainrings and the height needs the bottom edge of the outer cage plate to be 2-3 mm above the tops of the tallest teeth on the outer ring. To find the tallest teeth, plut the cranks level with the floor - the tallest teeth are those just either side of and at the "12 o'clock" position.

The inner and outer limit screws are set as per all the advice given here and in the post to which you refer - so inner limit, around 1/2 mm clearance between the outer surface of the inner cage plate and the "back" of the chain when on the inner ring and biggest sprocket, outer limit set so that you have approx 2 mm between the inner surface of the outer cage plate and the "front" of the chain when on the big ring and the smallest sprocket.

FD cable tension is set so that you have neutral, click 1, click 2 and click 3 - so one full sweep on the upshift lever should take the FD from as far inboard as it ever needs to go (the "neutral" position), to as far outboard, bearing in mind that it needs to go slightly beyond where it will sit once the chain is "settled" on the big chainring.

On a correctly set-up, current, 10s all Campagnolo system, you should be able to get all 10 sprockets at the rear with NO trim click on the big ring. On the small ring you will may need one or both of the "trim" clicks to stop chain rub. Be careful on the small ring as some noise that is often atributed to the chain hitting the FD when on the small ring and sprockets 1 or 2 (counting from the smallest cogs) is actually the chain touching the back of the big ring.

We build and trouble-shoot Camagnolo systems as the main UK SC, not to mention as Neutral Service at races and Sportifs / Gran Fondos, all the time - I don't know how many 100 we have set up over the years - but I can assure you, on the current systems, if they are set up correctly on a compliant frame, you will only need 3 clicks to get accurate shifting, if assembly is correctly carried out with the right parts.