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headset race swap questions with six clear photos

Old 05-17-16, 11:58 AM
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fredstrong
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headset race swap questions with six clear photos

I want to swap the race from the black steel fork to the carbon fork (off a 2009 Allez I crumped fwiw). Both are inch and an eighth.

Is DIY feasible or is the LBS my only hope (that carbon's race sure is lookin' fixed though)?
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Old 05-17-16, 12:12 PM
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The conic crown race is for a cartridge bearing headset , the other one is loose ball ,

DIY in your home Machineshop? If you had enough tools and background you probably would have just done the work

so, Yes take it to the LBS ..

the fork you got may even be incompatible , but then the shop will order the new Carbon fork to replace your crashed one.

Bang off the race on the steel fork .

a tool like a U is inserted from underneath and hit with a Hammer But..

they made the Pro tools for better investment cast crowns . that is a rather long ways from the crown race to the bottom of thje fork steerer. . If you had an Arc welder and some heavy steel
you could make one to reach up to the longer distance you Need.


the Shop may order a new crown race as a replacement part. to use the rest of the headset.

Last edited by fietsbob; 05-17-16 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 05-17-16, 12:15 PM
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Some people remove the crown race with a screwdriver (and sometimes that is the only way), but generally speaking it is better to use a dedicated tool for the job. Other than taking it to a bike shop, a bicycle co-op is an option if you have one near you. As for installing crown races, you can use an appropriate fitting pipe and a hammer; a dedicated tool is made for installation as well, but it is just a fancier pipe.
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Old 05-17-16, 12:18 PM
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That race may be pressed on, "shrunk" in place, or secured with some sort of sleeve retainer (Loctite 640, for instance). You can heat it up, and see if that will free it. Put the steerer tube in a container of ice water, just below the bearing race, then heat the bearing race using whatever method you think will work (not the "blue wrench", though!). You may need something sharp to nudge the bearing race down the tube.

I've machined "interference" fits which required freezing the OD part, and heating the ID part, then quickly assembling the parts before they resumed their room temperature sizes.

You're getting into "machine shop" territory for measuring and fitting. Are you certain the carbon fork will accept the ID of that bearing race? Tenths may matter.
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Old 05-17-16, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
The conic crown race is for a cartridge bearing headset , the other one is loose ball ,
Good point.

DIY in your home Machineshop? If you had enough tools and background you probably would have just done the work

so, Yes take it to the LBS ..
Probably the best advice without more information on why you want to swap the parts.
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Old 05-17-16, 12:31 PM
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Yea, I'm gonna swing it by the shop for the official opinion. I'm aware of the cartridge issue: I want to marry the fork to some shyte Chinese aluminum and need the loose-ball action to do so. It's that fat lip-of-a-shelf on the steel fork crown that suc*s, and the carbon crown I do not desire to damage.

I folded the Allez frame doing something wontonly thoughtless. The fork was just an innocent bystander.

Last edited by fredstrong; 05-17-16 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 05-17-16, 12:44 PM
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Im thinking it will raise the head tube, so lower the head tube angle degree . and so change the way it handles .

measuring fork tip to crown race seat is a way to gather Data.
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