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Shimano 105 5703 crankset - what 24t/26t chain ring works best?

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Shimano 105 5703 crankset - what 24t/26t chain ring works best?

Old 05-19-16, 08:25 AM
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JWK
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Shimano 105 5703 crankset - what 24t/26t chain ring works best?

A 24t or 26t chain ring is the last part I need to change over the component group on my bike. I'm using bar end shifters and a 12 - 30 cassette in the rear. I've heard some chainrings work better than others, and would rather not have to get into having to use little washer spacers or what-not to make things right.

Anyone know the best chainring available for the 5703 so I can "plug and play"?

There is an inexpensive Sugino 24t. Anyone know how that one would work?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Edited to add: I found the post I was thinking about. shelbyfv told me in another post that the Sugino chainrings don't work well with the 5703, and he went with a Salso ring which works well. shelbyfv stated that the Sugino has teeth that are offset and cause problems. I do not know what "offset" means in this scenario. Teeth tilted to one side or the other? Mr IGH stated that he used the Sugino rings without problems, but spaced the small chainring closer to the middle chainring. He did not state how he did this and I am not sure at all how to do it.

Note: I am NOT trying to find the cheapest way out of this. Sugino rings supposedly have the softest alloy, and the little granny rings will wear out faster, especially the way I use them (often). BUT, if I can get them to work easily, I'll get one just to throw on and get riding this bike. They're less than $15 on Amazon!

Last edited by JWK; 05-19-16 at 08:45 AM. Reason: adding info
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Old 05-19-16, 12:05 PM
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Any 24 or 26T chainring with a 74 mm 5-bolt circle will work. Granny chainrings don't have the shaped teeth or other shifting enhancements that larger rings do. I have a 26T Sugino chainring on one FC5703 crank and a 26T old SR chainring on another and have used Vuelta and a no-name steel chainring in the past and they all work.
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Old 05-19-16, 12:10 PM
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If you are concerned about wear, I'd go with a steel 74 bcd inner but they can be tough to source.

Rivendell has them, Sugino Steel Chainring - 74 x 24t - 12027
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Old 05-19-16, 02:06 PM
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It's also not a bad ideal to look into a chain catcher like an N-Gear Jump Stop. It's kind of a long way down from 39T to 24/26, and I've had more chain drop issues on my 5703 with 50-39-26 than my 9-speed touring bike with a 48-36-26 Sugino crank, both with similar Shimano triple FD's.
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Old 05-20-16, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
Any 24 or 26T chainring with a 74 mm 5-bolt circle will work. Granny chainrings don't have the shaped teeth or other shifting enhancements that larger rings do. I have a 26T Sugino chainring on one FC5703 crank and a 26T old SR chainring on another and have used Vuelta and a no-name steel chainring in the past and they all work.
Thanks so much! I am such an idiot, I forgot that Mr IGH uses brifters. It won't matter with friction shifting. It's been a long time since I've worked on my bikes. Not since '96, now that I think of it. I'm a little nervous about doing a complete component change right off, but I didn't have youtube back then!

Originally Posted by bikemig View Post
If you are concerned about wear, I'd go with a steel 74 bcd inner but they can be tough to source.

Rivendell has them, Sugino Steel Chainring - 74 x 24t - 12027
Thanks! That's exactly what I want. It's funny that my search didn't bring that up on Rivendell.

Originally Posted by Metaluna View Post
It's also not a bad ideal to look into a chain catcher like an N-Gear Jump Stop. It's kind of a long way down from 39T to 24/26, and I've had more chain drop issues on my 5703 with 50-39-26 than my 9-speed touring bike with a 48-36-26 Sugino crank, both with similar Shimano triple FD's.
Perfect! My wife has prime with Amazon. Now I can get this done.
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Old 05-22-16, 01:44 AM
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If you look closely at the stock 30 tooth ring on Shimano road triple cranks like the 5703 then you'll see that the teeth are offset to the inside slightly, the ring is not totally flat. This makes slightly more distance between the teeth and chainline of the inner ring compared to the middle ring. Therefore, when putting rings from other manufacturers onto these cranks, I always install thin washers between the ring and the crank to achieve similar spacing as the original ring. 0.5 or 1.0 mm is normally sufficient.

Cheap aluminium rings of that size can wear relatively quickly and then cause chain-suck problems, so steel is a good idea. If you want something aluminum for weight savings then Blackspire, a Canadian brand, make one that is much more durable than other brands IME: Blackspire - SuperPro 110/74 BCD Chainrings | Blackspire. An inner chain guide like the N-Gear is also highly recommend to keep the chain from dropping off during downshifts.
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Old 05-22-16, 08:43 AM
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TA of France makes premium steel 74 bcd as did stronglight

and Campagnolo Did ... (80's) they dropped out of the MTB sector so stopped..

considering how little time you are in that granny fear even relatively harder 7075-T6 aluminum may not be nessisary

low cost Sugino sufficient ..
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Old 05-22-16, 09:56 AM
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JWK, For me a chain catcher's best attribute isn't to keep paint from being scratched, but to help prevent going from high effort pedaling to zero resistance from the pedals in a millisecond. Depending on how much you like to tailor your gear ratios, consider buying both a 24T and a 26T granny chain ring. I tend to see my triples as doubles with a bail out chain ring and I like the smaller size. Some shift between the granny and the middle more often than I and may prefer less of a difference between the two. There is only a couple of gear inches of difference between the 24T and the 26T and the 30T bottom cassette cog.

Brad
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Old 05-22-16, 10:00 AM
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Get two or three. $3.00

RaceFace 74mm 9 Speed Silver Chainring | Race Face
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Old 05-28-16, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris_W View Post
If you look closely at the stock 30 tooth ring on Shimano road triple cranks like the 5703 then you'll see that the teeth are offset to the inside slightly, the ring is not totally flat. This makes slightly more distance between the teeth and chainline of the inner ring compared to the middle ring. Therefore, when putting rings from other manufacturers onto these cranks, I always install thin washers between the ring and the crank to achieve similar spacing as the original ring. 0.5 or 1.0 mm is normally sufficient.
I understand what you're saying, but the big question for me is whether it matters if you are using friction shifting for the chainrings. A difference of 0.5mm or 1.0mm sounds like it would only matter to brifters, but that is only my inexperienced, simple logic.
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Old 05-29-16, 09:50 AM
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The different offset in the original vs off-brand inner rings makes a minor difference in shift quality, although that is never going to be optimal with non-matched chainrings anyway, but is more of a factor when crossing-chaining. Because you'll already be using a smaller than intended chainring, if it is also closer to the middle ring than intended then the chain may rub on the middle ring when in the small ring and only half-way down the cassette. Putting the spacers behind the inner ring will give you one or two more usable rear cogs before their is any interference.
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Old 05-29-16, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris_W View Post
Putting the spacers behind the inner ring will give you one or two more usable rear cogs before their is any interference.
They may also leave a gap between the granny and middle chainring big enough for the chain to drop into or "skate" over the granny ring's teeth instead of shifting cleanly. Don't overdo the spacing.
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Old 05-30-16, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris_W View Post
The different offset in the original vs off-brand inner rings makes a minor difference in shift quality, although that is never going to be optimal with non-matched chainrings anyway, but is more of a factor when crossing-chaining. Because you'll already be using a smaller than intended chainring, if it is also closer to the middle ring than intended then the chain may rub on the middle ring when in the small ring and only half-way down the cassette. Putting the spacers behind the inner ring will give you one or two more usable rear cogs before their is any interference.
Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
They may also leave a gap between the granny and middle chainring big enough for the chain to drop into or "skate" over the granny ring's teeth instead of shifting cleanly. Don't overdo the spacing.
Thanks so much, guys! That is really great info for me.

I'll get some stainless steel thin washers and find the optimum spacing. Maybe I should get the cheap Sugino rings in 24t to see if it can get the number of gears I want. I would want to see at least four usable cogs in the back, preferably five. It might be more worth it for me to go with a 26t if there is too much of a gap between usable granny gears and middle chain ring gears.
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