Originally Posted by noglider

I've worked as a shop mechanic and was generous with knowledge.

Originally Posted by ptempel

Speaking of which, thank you for the tip about the threaded tool to hold the Park BBT-22 in place. Just used it the other night to remove the BB for inspection and cleaning. Had a good case of creaky bike with the BB and seat post being the main culprits.

Originally Posted by noglider

Only perform this service if you're sure you need it. Cartridge bearings don't need care until they need replacement. They need replacement when they stop working. If yours works, leave it alone.

Originally Posted by skimaxpower

^ The Ultegra BB weighs 8 grams more and is half the price. They are both equally compatible with your crankset. You pick.

Originally Posted by dr_lha

I have that BBR60 BB on two bikes, and it's a great BB, light and of high quality construction. I doubt the Dura-Ace is significantly better, but both are low cost items, so you won't be massively out of pocket going for the DA version.

One thing to note about the BBR60 is that it requires an adapter to work with the BBT-9 tool, as it is smaller than previous Shimano BSA bottom brackets. The adapter takes the form of a plastic insert, that goes into the BBT-9 and reduces the size of it. I own two of these adapters because they came with the two BBR60 BBs that I have purchased.

Originally Posted by noglider

OK so it does need replacement. Basically, the job is taking things apart and bolting in the new unit. Getting everything to the right tightness might be the trickiest part.

Ultegra is very high quality and high-priced stuff. Dura-Ace is slightly better but much, much more expensive, and the difference matters to almost no one, functionally. Mostly, it is there to show that you spent more than you had to.

Originally Posted by mstateglfr

I am forever amazed that bike shops allow for this as it takes business away from them.
Keeping people in the dark is not the solution, but teaching them so they dont come back seems counterintuitive.

Originally Posted by maartendc

Well when I was in the shop recently for something unrelated, the mechanic told me it needs replacing because it doesn't roll smoothly anymore. You can feel grinding when turning the cranks, and recently it also started making a creaking noise when pedaling.

Originally Posted by jimincalif

I just replaced my BB last month with the BBR60. My old Ultegra BB was still smooth and no discernible noise, but it had noticeable play in it. I could see it in watching the large chainring relative to the derailleur as I pedaled and I could grab the crank with my hand and push/pull it sideways and feel the play in it.

Originally Posted by HillRider

Was the bottom bracket really worn or had you failed to seat the spindle fully on the drive side and then didn't tighten the non-drive side plug adequately before tightening the nds crank arm clamp bolts? This is an easy mistake to make with HTII cranks and bottom brackets. Worn bottom brackets typically develop radial plan, not transverse play.

Originally Posted by jimincalif

No, it was radial play, definitely. I know what transverse play feels like. Before I replaced it I did reset the NDS pre-load plug just to be sure (and actually over tightened it a bit just to be sure there was no transverse play).

Originally Posted by HillRider

Doing a job once that requires specialty tools is indeed not a cost savings compared to having a shop do it. However, once you have the tools (and learn how to use them) subsequent jobs are a lot cheaper.

Originally Posted by Retro Grouch

BUT bottom bracket styles keep changing. It seems like every time that they change, you need a new tool of some sort to change them. Buying a new tool is one thing if you like to fool with your bikes a lot. If you think this might be a one time project, DIY might not cost out very well.

Originally Posted by rm -rf

This is one of those projects where the tool is likely to be comparable to the LBS labor charge. And I mentioned above that bottom brackets seem to need replacing every few years. It partly depends on how much you like doing your bike maintenance.

If the bearings are press-fit, then I'd take it to the LBS. I think those tools are more expensive, and it's not as simple as the threaded bottom brackets.

Originally Posted by mstateglfr

Completely agree that service brings people back.
I frequent a couple shops almost exclusively because of knowledgeable employees who are helpful. dont charge for a handful of brake cable caps. Dont charge for pulling off a stuck pedal that even a vice couldnt extract. Its appreciated and they do good work, so I go to them.
What you say applies for sure.

Showing a customer how limit screws work(referencing another thread) is a benefit because the customer can do it and not bring the bike into the shop in the future since thats an adjustment that would be made right then and there and probably not charged. That provides the customer with knowledge, shows them the shop cares and is helpful, and also saves both parties time in the future.

But not everything is that way nor should it be.

Originally Posted by kingston

... started to creak a bit. It was a Tiagra BB4600 that I just replaced with the same thing. I got a little over 3,400 miles out of it. Is that about what I should expect? This is my first hollowtech crank.

Originally Posted by FullGas

hmm, seems like an abbreviated life to me.

just replaced a 6600 HTII BB that had 30K mi on it...there was nothing wrong with it, just decided to put in a new one to go with a new crank.

Originally Posted by marcw

Crank puller is needed.

Originally Posted by trailangel

It costs extra to watch

Originally Posted by jimc101

If it's a 7800, that's from a time before BB86/press-fit were so common, so it most likely a HT2, which are probably the easiest BB's going to user service, all you need is a Park BBT-9 and a Hex key for the crank arm

Originally Posted by Tundra_Man

This reminds me of a sign my grandfather had hanging decades ago in his plumbing/heating/electrical business.

Hourly Labor Rate: $10
If you tried to fix it first: $15
If you watch: $20
If you help: $30