Front Disc Rotor Constantly Warps (steep descents)
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Front Disc Rotor Constantly Warps (steep descents)
I upgraded my bicycle with Shimano SLX M675 disc brakes with metal pads and Shimano XT 160mm Ice-Tech Disc Brake Rotors.
The problem I'm encountering is the front disk rotor constantly warps. I carry a heavy load (commuting) and I go down steep hills. I try to use only the rear disc brakes but I need to use the the front (even with sporadic use) to make a good complete stop. The front warps so often I carry an adjustable wrench to constantly true it after a few steep descents.
Is there an alternative rotor that I can get for the front disc (compatible with metal pads and SLX) that will resist the heavier descents?
Thank you.
The problem I'm encountering is the front disk rotor constantly warps. I carry a heavy load (commuting) and I go down steep hills. I try to use only the rear disc brakes but I need to use the the front (even with sporadic use) to make a good complete stop. The front warps so often I carry an adjustable wrench to constantly true it after a few steep descents.
Is there an alternative rotor that I can get for the front disc (compatible with metal pads and SLX) that will resist the heavier descents?
Thank you.

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I may be off as im a newbie to cycling but do have a fair amount knowledge from reading. It is my understanding that steep descents are a common problem for brake systems and tires because of improper braking,
Steep descents require hard short braking to keep thing from being hot for a longer period of time which could cause warping. So instead of riding the brake even lightly its better to brake hard when needed and then release to let things cool down.
Now from a metal working background if youve heated the rotor up enough to warp it, you are more likely to warp it again with less heat next time.
Now I could be completely wrong but im interested to learn as well.
Steep descents require hard short braking to keep thing from being hot for a longer period of time which could cause warping. So instead of riding the brake even lightly its better to brake hard when needed and then release to let things cool down.
Now from a metal working background if youve heated the rotor up enough to warp it, you are more likely to warp it again with less heat next time.
Now I could be completely wrong but im interested to learn as well.
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Thank you for the replies. Can you provide a couple of links to what models / brands you suggest? I'll show my LBS.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!

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Are you giving it time to cool after the descent?
I notice my rotors tend to scrap/ping for up to 30 seconds or seconds after a steep descent but once they cool they're back to normal.
ETA: I keep riding and the rotors cool as I ride along.
I notice my rotors tend to scrap/ping for up to 30 seconds or seconds after a steep descent but once they cool they're back to normal.
ETA: I keep riding and the rotors cool as I ride along.
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Yep, even time to cool. The challenge is that I have multiple descents and the rotor just gets worse by the time I am at the bottom of the hill. I've tried modulating, sudden braking, and combinations thereof but it still warps. It's really frustrating. There must be a better rotor that I can get for the front?
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Steep descents require hard short braking to keep thing from being hot for a longer period of time which could cause warping. So instead of riding the brake even lightly its better to brake hard when needed and then release to let things cool down.
Now from a metal working background if youve heated the rotor up enough to warp it, you are more likely to warp it again with less heat next time.
Now I could be completely wrong but im interested to learn as well.
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#10
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Actually, if your interest is in controlling speed, there's nothing wrong with alternating between front & rear. It's a good way to control speed while giving the rotors a chance to cool. You wouldn't want to do that for shortest stopping distance.
To the OP: you should try 180mm rotors, the extra size provides a significant boost to the braking performance.
To the OP: you should try 180mm rotors, the extra size provides a significant boost to the braking performance.
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Also, what is the process of converting 160 to 180? Is it simply a matter of adjustment or does it require additional parts?
Thanks!
#12
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Typically just the front. You'll need a new rotor and a 160mm to 180mm adapter piece (~$15) to set the caliper for 180mm.
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#14
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same adaptor is used with 2 different disc sizes on front or rear . But they usually mark them.
140/160; 160/180; 180/210
140/160; 160/180; 180/210
#15
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https://www.bikeman.com/bicycle-repa...4mm-post-mount
IS mount (side bolts on fork): Shimano 180mm Disc Brake Adaptors > Components > Brakes > Brake Adapters | Jenson USA
Post mount: Shimano F180P/P2 Disc Brake Adaptor > Components > Brakes > Brake Adapters | Jenson USA
Here's a more detailed article from Art's Cyclery: https://blog.artscyclery.com/keeping-...rake-adapters/
Last edited by gsa103; 06-24-16 at 04:27 PM.
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It depends if your bike has IS or post-mount brakes. Just get a Shimano adapter.
https://www.bikeman.com/bicycle-repa...4mm-post-mount
IS mount (side bolts on fork): Shimano 180mm Disc Brake Adaptors > Components > Brakes > Brake Adapters | Jenson USA
Post mount: Shimano F180P/P2 Disc Brake Adaptor > Components > Brakes > Brake Adapters | Jenson USA
Here's a more detailed article from Art's Cyclery: Art's Cyclery Blog » Rubber Side Down | Disc Brake Adapters
https://www.bikeman.com/bicycle-repa...4mm-post-mount
IS mount (side bolts on fork): Shimano 180mm Disc Brake Adaptors > Components > Brakes > Brake Adapters | Jenson USA
Post mount: Shimano F180P/P2 Disc Brake Adaptor > Components > Brakes > Brake Adapters | Jenson USA
Here's a more detailed article from Art's Cyclery: Art's Cyclery Blog » Rubber Side Down | Disc Brake Adapters
#17
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Make sure your fork is speced to handle a 180 rotor before you slap one on there. A larger rotor equals more fork snapping leverage. Rotors are rotors and don't care what brakes you are running. I'd probably just get a 180mm Ice tech rotor just to keep thing matching and looking pretty.
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Bikes: Co-Motion Cappuccino Tandem,'88 Bob Jackson Touring, Co-Motion Cascadia Touring, Open U.P., Ritchie Titanium Breakaway, Frances Cycles SmallHaul cargo bike. Those are the permanent ones; others wander in and out of the stable occasionally as well.
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I like the Avid HSX (Heat Shedding) rotors. They have the stiff cast center that makes the rotor stiffer overall. Very quiet as well...
#20
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I didn't have any luck with google so I'd send off an email
KONA BIKES | | CONTACT US
I thought you were talking about a spindly little carbon road bike fork. A steel 26er fork wouldn't concern me too much.
KONA BIKES | | CONTACT US
I thought you were talking about a spindly little carbon road bike fork. A steel 26er fork wouldn't concern me too much.
#21
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That fork should be fine with 180mm rotors. You can contact the manufacturer, but its generally only a concern for lighter carbon forks found on road bikes or fast commuter bikes.
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Picture of front:
IMG_2733.jpg
Picture of rear brakes:
IMG_2734.jpg
Near the rear brake is a black kickstand. You'll see that the rotor is very close to the frame. I'm not sure a 180 mm will fit. Will it? Is it better to keep the rear at 160mm?
I ordered the following items, based on lowest price, and membership credits that I have at Performance Bike:
Shimno MA-F-180 P/S:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Shimano XT 180mm Ice-Tech Disc Brake Rotor:
Shimano XT 180mm Ice-Tech Disc Brake Rotor
I hope I can do the install myself. Any tips, advice, or instructions are welcome.
IMG_2733.jpg
Picture of rear brakes:
IMG_2734.jpg
Near the rear brake is a black kickstand. You'll see that the rotor is very close to the frame. I'm not sure a 180 mm will fit. Will it? Is it better to keep the rear at 160mm?
I ordered the following items, based on lowest price, and membership credits that I have at Performance Bike:
Shimno MA-F-180 P/S:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Shimano XT 180mm Ice-Tech Disc Brake Rotor:
Shimano XT 180mm Ice-Tech Disc Brake Rotor
I hope I can do the install myself. Any tips, advice, or instructions are welcome.

Last edited by SBTurtle; 06-25-16 at 03:01 PM.
#23
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Just keep the rear at 160mm, most of your braking is from the front. The hardest part is centering the caliper. Mount the adapter, bolt the caliper on, leaving the bolts a little loose. Then squeeze the brakes and snug the caliper mounting bolts down. Inserting a business card on both sides of the rotor can help center things.
Lastly, wear a pair of disposable gloves during assembly, you'll keep you hands clean and keep finger oils/grease off the brake rotors.
Lastly, wear a pair of disposable gloves during assembly, you'll keep you hands clean and keep finger oils/grease off the brake rotors.
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Ordered the following:
Shimano MA-F Disc Brake Mounting Bracket (Black, 180-mm Post/IS Front)
Shimano XT 180mm Ice-Tech Disc Brake Rotor
Shimano XT M785 Front Quick Release Skewer: Black
The reason for the new skewer is to make sure the front wheel stays on better due to the increased braking performance. It's supposedly better designed, though a little heavier, than what typically comes with a stock bicycle purchase.
Will update when installed.
Shimano MA-F Disc Brake Mounting Bracket (Black, 180-mm Post/IS Front)
Shimano XT 180mm Ice-Tech Disc Brake Rotor
Shimano XT M785 Front Quick Release Skewer: Black
The reason for the new skewer is to make sure the front wheel stays on better due to the increased braking performance. It's supposedly better designed, though a little heavier, than what typically comes with a stock bicycle purchase.
Will update when installed.

Last edited by SBTurtle; 06-30-16 at 09:08 AM.
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Update:
Big difference in braking power! Also, the 180 front rotor doesn't warp nearly as bad as the 160 did. It can still slightly warp but no rub. I've also followed the advice on switching back and forth between front and rear braking when going down a hill. That helped a lot.
Thank you for all the help!
Big difference in braking power! Also, the 180 front rotor doesn't warp nearly as bad as the 160 did. It can still slightly warp but no rub. I've also followed the advice on switching back and forth between front and rear braking when going down a hill. That helped a lot.
Thank you for all the help!
