running new campy shift cables
 

I've got my bike project just about done - running cables and bar wrap and then it's ready to go. Ran the brake cables ok, but ran into some questions running shift cables. They are Campy Veloce 10 spd. It's the first time I am running new cables so this is all new to me.

First question is about the plastic guide that goes under the BB. Instructions said to use the one provided in the pack and that other ones could give rise to serious loss in shift performance. But there wasn't one in the pack. Is this something I absolutely need or can I re use the old one?

Next problem was casing ends... the instructions mentioned using a casing end where they go into the casing retainer on the down tube, and the one on the chain stay. I assume this is something I need to do. These were not in the box either, though I'm not entirely sure if those were meant to be or not. I have Jagwire racer cable set that is for Shimano, that included a few casing ends, will those work with Campy cables or is the cable a different thickness or something?

I'm going out of town within a week, and was really hoping to take this bike with me. But if I have to order parts I guess I'll have to abandon that idea. I suppose casing ends might be available at a bike store, but not sure about the cable guide plate thing?

The cable guide plate (or BB guide) to use is the one that comes with the frame/bike. It was picked to work beast at the job of guiding cables on that exact frame. How does any component company the BB shell OD of your bike (as example). The reference to a component company wanting you to only use their other products... duh.


The casing ends need to fit over the casing snuggly, Have the right base to accept either shift or gear cable forces. Beyond that some ends will have extended snouts that travel up the inner cable to help act as either lower friction devices or as water shields. Said snouts might not fit in every application. Some Campy casing is a different diameter and use casing ends with specific IDs. And there's more.


I suggest that you do go to a bike shop. They might provide answers and be a source of small parts like casing end caps. They might also be able to suggest a few details even before you find out the need for the knowledge. Andy.

The guide you currently have under your bottom bracket should work sufficiently well...I don't think I changed the one on my frame when I installed my record ergo shifters a bunch of years ago.

The casing ends/ferrules are to ensure 2 things...the end of the casing/housing stays together and that they fit without slop into the frame cable housing stops. If your jagwire ferrules slide onto the ends of the housing without any wiggle room then they should be the correct size. If I recall correctly, shimano uses a wider diameter housing than campagnolo, 10s campy shifter housing was 4.5mm diameter, the newer 11s housing is 4.1mm. Your jagwire ferrules may not work but it is easy to test fit. The shifter housing ferrules should have a flat bottom on the inside of them, or they will have a small washer inserted to create the flat bottom....shine a light into one to double check this.

-j

Ahh ok I'll use the old guide that came with my frame.

The housing ends... so I opened up the Jagwire ones (I called them Racer but the package says Road Pro btw, not sure but I must have read Racer somewhere on there). Also put the cables side by side. I'd be hard pressed to tell a difference but .5mm isn't much. The shift cable seemed to be a fine fit and the casing... well maybe it is just a hair loose but there really isn't any play with them fitted. I didn't have to force them on, but there is maybe only paper thin space between them. If they really need to be a tight fit can I wrap the housing end with a wrap or two of electrical tape or just a light coat of silicon?

Casings
 

It's really best to replace the casings (housings) when replacing the cables, especially the short casing at the rear derailleur. Most of the wear is inside the casings, and the short casing is subject to more dust and dirty spray. It's easy to cut the new casings to the the same lengths as the old ones

Everything is new, this is a complete build from a bare frame. New cables, housings, ergopowers etc. The old housing were likely original to 1988 and junk and since this is a down tube shifter conversion the new cables aren't the same length (plus using a different stem and larger bar).

The ferrules don't need to be snug as in there is resistance when putting them on the ends of the housing, they just need to fit without any "side-to-side" play.

If you think they are a good fit then install the cables and housing and finish your build. If for some reason you can't dial in the shifting and you suspect that it might be the ferrules then you can simply and easily replace them later on by un-anchoring and backing out the cable slightly.

Tip: Don't over-tighten the derailleur cable anchor bolt which will mash the cable and make it difficult if not impossible to push through the housing in the future.

-j