![]() |
Stripped Crankset. How and When to Remove
Hi,
I stripped a cheap LASCO square taper crank set (FP670). It was perfectly fine and serviceable, but I had wanted to upgrade it. So I have two questions: a) Will it be easier to remove now, later or does it not matter. I'm thinking to just change it once something dramatically goes wrong. b) Given both the left and right sides are stripped what is the best way to remove them? I tried removing the crank bolts and riding it but that didn't help. I also lubricated the spindle etc. I've removed this crankset a few times so I'm not sure why they are stuck this time. Thanks! |
What do you mean you stripped the crankset??? There are no threads on the crankset itself to strip wrt the BB. The sq taper is just that, a tapered axle.
Get thee a crank extractor, presuming you don't have self-extracting bolts. |
Assuming you mean that you stripped out the extractor threads, you might be able to use a gear puller or (my preference) Jacobs chuck wedges.
|
Or just use a hacksaw and cut it off.
|
Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
(Post 18879572)
Assuming you mean that you stripped out the extractor threads, you might be able to use a gear puller or (my preference) Jacobs chuck wedges.
I stripped out the d*@# threads after using my b#@#@# crank extractors! Now when I screw in the crank extractors I turn the inner screw on them and the crank extractor just pops out. |
Jacobs chucks wedges or a 3-4 arm gear puller. You'll likely ruin the entire crankset removing it with the gear puller.
|
Originally Posted by Inpd
(Post 18879648)
Sorry, I should have been more explicit.
I stripped out the d*@# threads after using my b#@#@# crank extractors! Now when I screw in the crank extractors I turn the inner screw on them and the crank extractor just pops out. |
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 18879713)
You need a "pickle fork". Put the fork between the crank and bottom bracket and hit the top of the fork with a hammer. It's wedged shaped and will force the crank arm off. Much easier than a hacksaw and cheaper than a gear puller. I've used one a couple of times at my local co-op and it works quite well.
|
Originally Posted by corrado33
(Post 18879722)
I've used those. Jacobs chuck wedges have less of a chance of causing (paint) damage to the frame.
|
Originally Posted by cyccommute
(Post 18880506)
The pickle fork doesn't touch the frame. It wedges between the crank and the bottom bracket. And it has a handle on the that you can hit more easily with a hammer.
Also, you can get them at Freight Harbor (i.e. 15/16" Pneumatic Ball Joint Separator) can I use one of these? Or does it need to be a bicycle specific pickle fork. Thanks again. |
Doubt if there are any bike specific ones.
Dunno what size - have never used one. Would guess size is smallest that will fit around the spindle |
Originally Posted by Inpd
(Post 18881434)
Thanks. Pickle forks come in a variety of sizes (i.e. 3/4 inch 15/16 inch etc.) Which size do I get for a square taper BB?
Also, you can get them at Freight Harbor (i.e. 15/16" Pneumatic Ball Joint Separator) can I use one of these? Or does it need to be a bicycle specific pickle fork. Thanks again. If you have an O'Reilly's near you, you might even be able to get a loaner. The actual name of the tool is a pitman arm wedge and it's used on the front suspension of cars. Alternatively, you might try a local car mechanic. It doesn't take much to knock the arm off with one of these. Just wedge it behind the arm and a few downward hits with a hammer will pop it right off. |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:37 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.