White Lightning Clean Ride
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easy to clean, doesn't attract grime, and recommended by Wippermann for their stainless chains.
Never tried it until I bought a Wippermann chain, now I'll never use anything else (+ Epic, Ice Wax, etc)
Never tried it until I bought a Wippermann chain, now I'll never use anything else (+ Epic, Ice Wax, etc)
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My experience was that it lasted no more than 120 miles on dry roads and 1 ride in the rain. That was pretty consistent with a food grade cleaning between applications. I wanted to love the stuff but it just didn't last long enough for me. Now I use Chain-L and get 500+ miles. (Let the lube wars begin!!!)
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has anyone ever compared Finish Line to Pedro's or White Lightning?
My personal observations comparing the last two have differed from others'.
My personal observations comparing the last two have differed from others'.
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I'm trying Super Lube Synthetic with PTFE to see how it goes. So far, it's super quiet with very smooth shifting. It's easy to clean out of the chain and easy to apply. Less black crud when I clean it too. I'll do a report at the end of riding season. bk
#9
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On a bicycle chain, if it aint liquid, it aint working.
#10
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Bulldog,
Fancy meeting you here. Do you think Bergman's Formula would work as a chain lube? (ROFL) All kidding aside, the base component of White Lightning is about the same thing. Add some 1.5 Micron PFTE powder and, Voila!!
Truth be told, I'm attempting to recreate my own version of melted chain wax. I ordered molybdenum disulfide and PFTE powder the other day to mix with paraffin. Time for some head-to-head comparisons....
(Oh yeah, Martslc) I used to use White Lightning and got around 100 miles out of a treatment and I lived in Arizona at the time. Good stuff indeed for out there.
Fancy meeting you here. Do you think Bergman's Formula would work as a chain lube? (ROFL) All kidding aside, the base component of White Lightning is about the same thing. Add some 1.5 Micron PFTE powder and, Voila!!
Truth be told, I'm attempting to recreate my own version of melted chain wax. I ordered molybdenum disulfide and PFTE powder the other day to mix with paraffin. Time for some head-to-head comparisons....
(Oh yeah, Martslc) I used to use White Lightning and got around 100 miles out of a treatment and I lived in Arizona at the time. Good stuff indeed for out there.
Last edited by drlogik; 08-09-16 at 05:46 PM.
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technically, wax is viscous liquid (certainly not a solid)
it stays put and flows under contact stress - exactly what you need it to do on a chain.
Oil makes little sense on a chain since there are no rotating spindles (what oil is for), oil attracts dirt (because its low viscosity wets the dirt), and requires a solvent to clean.
Hi bro - good to see you, and thanks for the info.
7 coats spar varnish on my cork grips (2 coats shellac on the twine wraps)

ps - where I said dirt, should have said sand, because that's what wears chains - not clay - with wax lube, you can rinse it off, let it dry and re-lube.
Can't do that with oil.
I also don't mind putting my bikes on the repair stand to re-lube the chains.
it stays put and flows under contact stress - exactly what you need it to do on a chain.
Oil makes little sense on a chain since there are no rotating spindles (what oil is for), oil attracts dirt (because its low viscosity wets the dirt), and requires a solvent to clean.
Hi bro - good to see you, and thanks for the info.
7 coats spar varnish on my cork grips (2 coats shellac on the twine wraps)

ps - where I said dirt, should have said sand, because that's what wears chains - not clay - with wax lube, you can rinse it off, let it dry and re-lube.
Can't do that with oil.
I also don't mind putting my bikes on the repair stand to re-lube the chains.
Last edited by bulldog1935; 08-09-16 at 06:32 PM.
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#13
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I rode 100+ mi/wk through a monsoon spring - it was wet every time - and was happy to do what I had to do.
What really impressed me was how clean my chain stayed relative to my fenders.

get home, hose everything down - let it dry, re-lube the chain. The advantages of stainless chain and SKF BB
What really impressed me was how clean my chain stayed relative to my fenders.

get home, hose everything down - let it dry, re-lube the chain. The advantages of stainless chain and SKF BB
Last edited by bulldog1935; 08-09-16 at 07:03 PM.
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I'll never forget back in 1993 or so, trying out the original formula White Lightning and riding down to Salem from Portland Through a buncha small squalls. Just outside of Oregon City on the way down got a short torrential downpour and after it stopped raining on me, my chain began screeching like a banshee. Dropped in to a gas station, dug through the trash 'til I got a mostly emptied quart of 10w-30. Dripped the remains of that on my chain, wiped with a blue paper towel and that got me through the rest of the trip down.
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2oz of the stuff doesn't take up much space in a rando bag - mine will hold a watermelon.
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I'm actually using 1 part WL Epic : 2 parts 0w20 motor oil at the moment. I still just grab trash oil if needed out on rides. Gas station trash cans don't often have oil jugs in them these days, to gotta hit the auto parts shop trashcans.
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the only reason I tried it was the Wippermann recommendation, and I really like it as a system with the stainless chain.
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I used White Lightning for awhile but it would eventually collect in the cassette and require disassembly to thoroughly clean the gummy build-up.
I've been using DuPont Teflon Chain Saver and it's been great. Lasts much longer between lubes as well.
I've been using DuPont Teflon Chain Saver and it's been great. Lasts much longer between lubes as well.
#19
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martslc, I've used wax based chain lube for probably 20 years and none of the brands last as long as an oil based lube. Two hundred miles is generally a stretch with reapplications at around one hundred miles more common.
As mentioned above, there is no rust protection so I will often alternate the oil and wax based lubes. My mountain bike probably benefits most from a wax based lubricant.
Brad
As mentioned above, there is no rust protection so I will often alternate the oil and wax based lubes. My mountain bike probably benefits most from a wax based lubricant.
Brad
#20
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technically, wax is viscous liquid (certainly not a solid)
it stays put and flows under contact stress - exactly what you need it to do on a chain.
Oil makes little sense on a chain since there are no rotating spindles (what oil is for), oil attracts dirt (because its low viscosity wets the dirt), and requires a solvent to clean.
Hi bro - good to see you, and thanks for the info.
7 coats spar varnish on my cork grips (2 coats shellac on the twine wraps)

ps - where I said dirt, should have said sand, because that's what wears chains - not clay - with wax lube, you can rinse it off, let it dry and re-lube.
Can't do that with oil.
I also don't mind putting my bikes on the repair stand to re-lube the chains.
it stays put and flows under contact stress - exactly what you need it to do on a chain.
Oil makes little sense on a chain since there are no rotating spindles (what oil is for), oil attracts dirt (because its low viscosity wets the dirt), and requires a solvent to clean.
Hi bro - good to see you, and thanks for the info.
7 coats spar varnish on my cork grips (2 coats shellac on the twine wraps)

ps - where I said dirt, should have said sand, because that's what wears chains - not clay - with wax lube, you can rinse it off, let it dry and re-lube.
Can't do that with oil.
I also don't mind putting my bikes on the repair stand to re-lube the chains.
Oil is a good lube for parts that slide against one another and for the pins that rotate in the inner plate upsets.
I gave up on wax years ago. Too much trouble for no gain.
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I get about 50 miles out of the clean ride. (On my mountain bike.) That's why I use the epic ride stuff. Lasts much longer.
It's dusty here.
It's dusty here.
#23
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I think clean ride is great for cables but not very effective for lubricating chains.
-SP
-SP