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front derailleur adjustment question

Old 08-27-16, 06:34 PM
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kingston 
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front derailleur adjustment question

I picked up this used Specialized Sirrus Sport recently.


The front derailleur seems a little wonky, and I can't figure out how to adjust it to get it to line up with the chainrings.



Any ideas?

Last edited by kingston; 08-27-16 at 06:35 PM. Reason: photo links
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Old 08-28-16, 07:47 AM
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Could be that it isn't the original FD for that bike. Does it shift ok?
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Old 08-28-16, 08:24 AM
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I'd say you need a new front derailleur. That one is meant for a much larger chain ring, probably a road bike. You will never get good shifting with that.
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Old 08-28-16, 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Slash5 View Post
I'd say you need a new front derailleur. That one is meant for a much larger chain ring, probably a road bike. You will never get good shifting with that.
Yes and No

Yes, the FD doesn't match the curvature of the rings, but you have it backward. That FD was made for a SMALLER outer ring, and I suspect that the FD may be original, but the prior owner fitted a larger ring.
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Old 08-28-16, 08:53 AM
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think about buying a "Trekking" crank matching one .... made assuming a 48t outer chainring..





./.

Last edited by fietsbob; 08-28-16 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 08-28-16, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
Yes and No

Yes, the FD doesn't match the curvature of the rings, but you have it backward. That FD was made for a SMALLER outer ring, and I suspect that the FD may be original, but the prior owner fitted a larger ring.
My thought also. The OP may find a witness mark left on the seat tube from when it was clamped lower down.

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Old 08-28-16, 09:05 AM
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The OP has two basic choices.

1- buy a derailleur to match the ring, either a standard mtn derailleur for a 48t ring or a road triple for one with 50 or more teeth.
2- if he doesn't use the higher gears, he can replace the ring with a smaller one. One guide to the original size would be the middle, with the correct ring being 10t larger.

OTOH- I believe it should be possible to get decent service from that derailleur (if it's the original, and matched to the lever). The OP doesn't say the specific issues he's having, and if he would, we might be able to help him solve it, and get the FD working decently if not perfectly.


NOTE -- mtn and road FD's don't have the same pull ratios, so if he's replacing the FD he has to make sure it's with one compatible with the lever, or use a travel matching device.
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Old 08-28-16, 10:07 AM
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Thanks for the responses. I have overlooked obvious things before and was hoping this was just another case of that. Here's little more info.

Best I can tell the bike is a 2001 Specialized Sirrus Sport with all original equipment. Everything matches the specs in bikepedia (see photos below).

Brakeset DiaTech Mini Max brakes, Shimano Deore levers
Shift Levers Shimano Deore LX RapidFire SL
Front Derailleur Shimano Deore LX
Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore LX
Crankset Specialized Sirrus, 26/36/48 teeth

I can get it to shift pretty well, but it rubs on the FD when it’s in the highest gear. If I adjust it so that it doesn’t rub in the highest gear, it won’t shift from the big to middle chainring. Since I only paid sixty bucks for the bike, I think I'll just leave it the way it is and never use the highest gear. I got it for my kid to ride to high school, and there aren't really any hills on the way to school so he won't need that gear anyway.

My original thought was that the FD was bent, but that doesn’t appear to be the case. When I got it the FD was mounted lower so it lined up with the middle ring and wouldn't shift to the big ring at all. Must be that the original owner replaced the FD with something that looked exactly the same but was sized for a smaller chainring. I bought it from the original owner's Mom, and the only thing she knew about the bike was that she wanted to get it out of her garage.







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Old 08-28-16, 10:29 AM
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Well...that bike isn't ALL original equipment, strictly speaking. That rear wheel has been completely rebuilt at least once. I had one of those Sirrus back in the day. First real bike. The stock wheels were spoke-busting junk, even for a featherweight. But that is niether here nor there....


I believe that your FD and its band clamp are mounted way the hell too high up....due to the FD cage being bent. But I'm operating on memory. I believe you can faintly see the original correct mount line in the finish of the seat tube still. From the finish marring here and there, I suspect it is crash damage. Probably want to get it checked with a checker, as the RD hanger may be off. Now for $60USD it is a nice score, presuming you don't have the spoke-popping hell happen to you that occurred on the OEM wheels when new. Come to think of it, I don;t believe those are the original chainrings either, the finish looks wrong.

Last edited by Marcus_Ti; 08-28-16 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 08-28-16, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Marcus_Ti View Post
Well...that bike isn't ALL original equipment, strictly speaking. That rear wheel has been completely rebuilt at least once. I had one of those Sirrus back in the day. First real bike. The stock wheels were spoke-busting junk, even for a featherweight. But that is neither here nor there....
That explains why the spokes in the rear are silver and the ones in the front are black. The front wheel was so badly out of true it wouldn't spin. Some of the spoke nipples were so loose I could turn them with my fingers. Easy enough to throw another front wheel on there if this one is too much trouble. The rear wheel is in pretty good shape.

Originally Posted by Marcus_Ti View Post
I believe that your FD and its band clamp are mounted way the hell too high up....due to the FD cage being bent. But I'm operating on memory. I believe you can faintly see the original correct mount line in the finish of the seat tube still. From the finish marring here and there, I suspect it is crash damage.
You're right. The FD was mounted much lower when I got it. It was wedged in between the middle and big chainring. The crank wouldn't even turn. I just jacked it up to get it to work. The metal doesn't look deformed so I don't think it's bent. I think the original has been replaced with a derailleur meant for a smaller chainring.

Originally Posted by Marcus_Ti View Post
Probably want to get it checked with a checker, as the RD hanger may be off.
I don't have a checker, so I'm probably not going to bother checking the RD hanger as the rear shifts fine, and it's not like I'm taking this thing on tour. My 9th grader is going to ride it two miles back and forth to school.


Originally Posted by Marcus_Ti View Post
Now for $60USD it is a nice score, presuming you don't have the spoke-popping hell happen to you that occurred on the OEM wheels when new. Come to think of it, I don;t believe those are the original chainrings either, the finish looks wrong.
I'm still happy with the purchase. My kid thinks it's cool enough to ride to school which is all I was going for. I'll wait for him to complain about the shifting before getting a new FD.
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Old 08-28-16, 12:56 PM
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Put the chain on the middle ring and keep it there. Take the FD off. If you can, remove the other chain rings as well. You'll be happy riding it w/o a FD. Plenty of gears. No worries. It will look "cool" not having a FD. Very hip.
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Old 08-28-16, 08:07 PM
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Don't forget that derailleurs also have a chainstay angle specification. It's either 63-66 degrees, or 66-69 degrees. I think you have the former, when you need the latter.
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Old 08-29-16, 06:58 AM
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A bit more research leads me to believe that what's on there right now is a Deore FD-M590 top-swing FD which has a limit of 44T. I believe I need the Deore FD-M591 traditional bottom-swing FD which has a limit of 48T. Does that sound right?
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Old 09-02-16, 05:09 PM
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Does this look right? It seems to high to me, but if I move it down the cage rubs on the middle ring when it's in the big ring. Shifting is fine.
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Old 09-02-16, 06:14 PM
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You basically set the FDER to the largest ring. (about 1/8" or so gap)
IF you have the correct FDER, it'll clear the smaller rings.

Get an FDER (about $15?) that matches the tooth count of your rings.
Even a Shimano Tourney level will work.
I use one on total mismatch 3X9 systems on my bikes and shifting is "adequate".
You'll note how high it's mounted.
That's necessary to clear the smaller rings.
And yes, it does look gawdawful.
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Old 09-02-16, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
You basically set the FDER to the largest ring. (about 1/8" or so gap)
IF you have the correct FDER, it'll clear the smaller rings.

Get an FDER (about $15?) that matches the tooth count of your rings.
Even a Shimano Tourney level will work.
I use one on total mismatch 3X9 systems on my bikes and shifting is "adequate".
You'll note how high it's mounted.
That's necessary to clear the smaller rings.
And yes, it does look gawdawful.
Now I'm even more confused. I just got a new FD to match the chainset, but now I'm thinking the original FD was fine, and I should have just left it alone. It didn't look nearly as ridiculous as yours.
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Old 09-02-16, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by kingston View Post
Now I'm even more confused. I just got a new FD to match the chainset, but now I'm thinking the original FD was fine, and I should have just left it alone. It didn't look nearly as ridiculous as yours.
Mine looks ridiculous because I put on a 36T large ring in place of the original 44T. Ya know, 22-32-44 to 22-32-36.
The point was to show how adaptable the Tourney RDER is. (if you want to do a LOT of adjusting)

Go look at other bikes that haven't been "modified" and you can see what they SHOULD look like.

Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 09-02-16 at 07:49 PM.
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