Anybody still "tin" cables?
 

When I set up brake and derailleur cables, as soon as I cut them to length, I "tin" the ends with solder. Keeps the wire strands together (especially while routing through casings), and negates the need for ferules. Also looks nicer.

Anybody else still do this, or is it a lost art, like shellacking bar tape?

I used to, but since I do most of my bike work in the house, I don't want to stink up the place with flux smell.

I do but I add an end cap to protect the sharp end.

I use super glue and then put an end cap on (after the glue has dried). Works very well.

I used to do that, but these new stainless cables are harder for me to solder. So I just wipe some Gorilla glue on the ends. Always liked the soldering and it held and kept them together, as well as one-upping your riding buddies.
:beer:

PS... this new lead-free solder is BS

...same here on the stainless and soldering. I have recently discovered fishing gear wire crimps as an alternative. They are a little less clunky looking than the aluminum bike crimps that are sold, but require more crimping force to use them.

They come in a variety of diameters, with the two smallest sizes about right for bike cables.

A few months back someone suggested a method that I have tried and works great (sorry, I can't remember who you are but thanks). Works best if you have an electric drill but not essential, you could just use some pliers but a little less effective. You can do this with the cables already clamped in your deraillers/brakes or clamped in a vise or whatever. Cut the cable a few inches longer than where you want the length to end up. Tighten the drill chuck on the cable end and set it so it will turn in the direction of tightening the cable strands. (I forget if that is clockwise or counter cw). Then heat up the spot on the cable you want to cut until it's glowing red. Start the drill and it will quickly twist off the extra length. Presto, you have a fused and slightly tapered end, no solder needed. Practice a few times on some extra cable just to get the feel of it. I have a mini butane torch that works perfectly but you could also use a propane torch or even a cig. lighter. Of course it goes without saying, make sure you're not pointing the flame towards anything that will melt or or catch fire. Sorry, had to say it.

I have been using waterproof wire shrink tubing. Get the size that fits snugly over wire, cut a piece 15mm long, slide it over the end of the wire, and heat it uniformly. It shrinks tightly over the wire. You can remove it by pulling it hard in case you want to remove the wire to oil it.
YannisG

I'm wondering if the soldered end acts as a sacrificial metal for the cable. Seems like it would, that would keep corrosion down for the cable.

I find stainless is difficult to solder. Plus, I always had a solder bump, so not reusable.

Lately I've been tig welding my cable ends. Attach the ground to the cable end. Pull and touch with the torch. Takes 1 second, and I get a clean cut that generally doesn't fray.

Soldering Stainless steel is More difficult, so advantage Zn* Treated steel cables, there.

Melt fused is How New Cables are being Shipped. In bulk reels for LBS service use .

* Zinc is the sacrificial metal for steel, In the Shipyard we welded Ingots of Zn inside tanks
that were flooded with sea water because of its useful ness as a sacrificial element.

It won't, both tin and lead are higher (more noble) in the galvanic series than iron or steel so would have the opposite effect and would cause the wire to corrode MORE readily; this is why metals such as magnesium and zinc are used for sacrificial anodes, and not tin or lead.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_series

I used to use the Krazy Glue method but have changed to the "twist-melt" process recently with good results.

I was thinking about the zinc in some solders.
But they usually include tin, which I guess would make it ineffective.

I soldered one the other day. The heat shrink sleeve, fish line crimps, and twist melt methods sound great.

Soldering stainless steel is super easy. I've done it a jillion times. Not on bike cables though. I've even soldered chrome to stainless a jillion times.

It's all about the flux. You need an acid based liquid flux designed for stainless steel. Simply apply with a tiny brush or Q-tip. Fast and effortless. You can achieve perfection as far a flow control too.


http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/K9MAAO...ol/s-l1600.jpg

Using a torch and power tools on your cable, that's hard core. I admire that. But I just shrink some tubing on the end - not that durable but quick and neat.

I tin every other stranded wire but not bike wires. I stick them in a tube of Goop™ so I can scrape it off when I want to take it out of the housing.

I buy slick galvanized cables just to make soldering the cut ends go more easily. They're cheaper and I've never ever had to replace one due to rust or corrosion. I also solder mine prior to cutting through the solder joint.

Thanks for these tips!

I tried soldering a year or so ago and it was a complete failure.

I tried soldering SS cable ends once or twice and it never worked for me. Clear nail polish seems to work well enough. :thumb:

Clean Metal is the key.. then Flux, then solder .