Lubing Brake Cables
#1
Señor Blues
Thread Starter
Lubing Brake Cables
Lubing Brake Cables
Does anyone do it? What do you use for a lube?
I've got all new cables, inner and outer housing, new shifters, and new brakes. Maybe 1500 miles on the setup. Everything was great, for a while..
After a few rides in the rain (not heavy, not extended) the brake levers feel "crunchy". It's more so the rear brake, but the front is that way too. For the rear, it's definitely an issue that's between the brake lever and the first cable stop. Beyond that everything is smooth.
My gut tells me not to use an oil inside the housing, but I haven't ruled it out. I think my father would have told me powdered graphite, but he's no longer around to ask.
Anybody? Any ideas? I've thought of inverting the bike and dripping a light oil into the cable housing and letting gravity draw it closer to the lever. I'm open to any and all suggestions. Thanks!
Does anyone do it? What do you use for a lube?
I've got all new cables, inner and outer housing, new shifters, and new brakes. Maybe 1500 miles on the setup. Everything was great, for a while..
After a few rides in the rain (not heavy, not extended) the brake levers feel "crunchy". It's more so the rear brake, but the front is that way too. For the rear, it's definitely an issue that's between the brake lever and the first cable stop. Beyond that everything is smooth.
My gut tells me not to use an oil inside the housing, but I haven't ruled it out. I think my father would have told me powdered graphite, but he's no longer around to ask.
Anybody? Any ideas? I've thought of inverting the bike and dripping a light oil into the cable housing and letting gravity draw it closer to the lever. I'm open to any and all suggestions. Thanks!
#2
Senior Member
Teflon lube works for me.
#3
Banned
I grease them as I put them together , wiping it on with my fingers.
It gets complicated when I solder where I'm going to cut the cable , because I cannot have grease where I solder .
so the cable goes in (marked) and out, is soldered then greased and cut where I soldered it , to Not fray..
skipping the solder just wipe grease on the cable as you put it in the housing.
Stainless steel cables that really does not even matter . the grease is for rust resistance in common steel cables
...
It gets complicated when I solder where I'm going to cut the cable , because I cannot have grease where I solder .
so the cable goes in (marked) and out, is soldered then greased and cut where I soldered it , to Not fray..
skipping the solder just wipe grease on the cable as you put it in the housing.
Stainless steel cables that really does not even matter . the grease is for rust resistance in common steel cables
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 09-21-16 at 09:32 AM.
#4
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Whenever I replace cables I spray boeshield down the housings
#5
Senior Member
I only lubricate cables if they are basic, plain, un-coated cables and housing. I use Phil's Tenacious Oil, sparingly or the lightest Teflon grease I have (Finish Line) ...sparingly...which ever is closer at hand. I put the lube on my fingers and rub it in to the cable only. Too much lube can gum and/or attract dirt.
For coated cables and housing with inner sleeves (ala Shimano Dura Ace) I do not use any lubricants at all. They aren't needed or advised according to most manufacturers.
For coated cables and housing with inner sleeves (ala Shimano Dura Ace) I do not use any lubricants at all. They aren't needed or advised according to most manufacturers.
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cables are cheap, if they got that bad, you could just replace them?
also, to your point, riding in the rain sucks lol. I got caught in a rain storm literally my first ride after installing a new DA BB and crankset - I had to disassemble and clean the entire thing. road grit is the worst.
also, to your point, riding in the rain sucks lol. I got caught in a rain storm literally my first ride after installing a new DA BB and crankset - I had to disassemble and clean the entire thing. road grit is the worst.
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Rarely. I only use Shimano SP41 housing and they are pre-lubricated internally along the entire length. You're just supposed to run the cable through it and be done. The end caps also are designed to keep out water.
IF, for some reason I need to lube a cable, I rub a super light coat of silicone grease on it because that's what's already in the housing.
Blowing solvent based lubricants or graphite into the existing silicone lube is just going to gum it up.
IF, for some reason I need to lube a cable, I rub a super light coat of silicone grease on it because that's what's already in the housing.
Blowing solvent based lubricants or graphite into the existing silicone lube is just going to gum it up.
#8
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I use lined housings and die-drawn stainless cables, no lube. I replace both inners and housings together.
#9
incazzare.
If I remember to, I put a little grease or oil on the cables when assembling, but I usually don't remember. I generally decide to change the bike around before the cables need lube or wear out, so it doesn't really matter too much for me.
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1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson), 1973 Wes Mason, 1974 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2011 Dick Chafe, 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter
1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson), 1973 Wes Mason, 1974 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2011 Dick Chafe, 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter
#10
Señor Blues
Thread Starter
Thanks for the many responses, they are much appreciated.
I'll probably try some kind of liquid lube or grease and sparingly. What's curious, to me anyways is this.. I built up a frame this year and also rebuilt a bike that I've had for 5 years and many miles. Both brake-sets are identical, including levers, cables, and calipers. One still has very smooth lever action and the other is the subject of this thread. Both bikes have seen roughly equal amounts of rain and dry hours, and about 1800 miles each post build. I don't understand why the results are so different for these 2 bikes.
I'll probably try some kind of liquid lube or grease and sparingly. What's curious, to me anyways is this.. I built up a frame this year and also rebuilt a bike that I've had for 5 years and many miles. Both brake-sets are identical, including levers, cables, and calipers. One still has very smooth lever action and the other is the subject of this thread. Both bikes have seen roughly equal amounts of rain and dry hours, and about 1800 miles each post build. I don't understand why the results are so different for these 2 bikes.
#11
Non omnino gravis
#12
Señor Blues
Thread Starter
#13
Georgia Traveler
I use the Sprayon brand aerosol moly lube (LU202 - Moly Chain Lubricant)...just a quick shot into each cable housing on assembly. I ride in all kinds of weather and have never seen any indication of corrosion. I think LPS and CRC also make an aerosol version. A can will last for years if you just use it on cables.
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...+1. It doesn't cost all that much more and seems to work pretty well, whatever your conditions. Cheap, unlined cable housings are vexatious to the soul. The slick stainless cables are just a little nice touch that maybe makes the whole thing work a little better for longer.