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Shimano hub "left and right" cones or ambibikestrous?

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Shimano hub "left and right" cones or ambibikestrous?

Old 10-17-16, 02:52 PM
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canklecat
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Shimano hub "left and right" cones or ambibikestrous?

I'm replacing the cones on Shimano Exage HB-RM50 front, and FH-HG50 rear hubs. The hub body races themselves are fine but somehow the cones are a pitted mess. Presumably the previous owner slapped in some new ball bearings and grease before selling, but didn't replace the cones.

I figured it wasn't going to be easy finding OEM or equivalent cones for an early 1990s hub, but while browsing several parts sites I noticed some leftover OEM packets of hub parts specified something like "Shimano left rear" or "Shimano right front" cones.

Seriously? Did Shimano do this just to make it easier for unskilled parts replacers, or were there actually differences in tolerances, cone angle, etc.?

Now I'm beginning to see why Foghorn Leghorn kept his feathers numbered, for purposes of identification.




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Old 10-17-16, 03:25 PM
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The fronts will be the same. The rears are normally different lengths.
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Old 10-17-16, 03:29 PM
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Ah, that's interesting. Now that I re-read the catalogs all the left/right cone references are to rear hubs, not front.
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Old 10-17-16, 03:52 PM
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IF you can find them, the price for a pair will probably approach that of a lower end new hub.
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Old 10-17-16, 04:23 PM
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Front hubs are symmetrical and take the same cones on both sides. Rear hubs have a one bearing design on the non-drive side and a different style on the drive (freehub) side since they are not configured the same.
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Old 10-17-16, 07:08 PM
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Agreed that ft hubs typically have the same cone on both sides and that rears may or might not have the same cones. Freehubs often don't. But the bearing architecture usually is the same side to side. What isn't the same is the dust cap/seal/cone wrench flats aspects. So one can, most all the time exchange the left and right cones if one is willing to do some playing with spacers and assembly order (so to insure cone/lock nut tightness and the ability to adjust the bearing). Of course it's best to get the OEM cones for each side if possible. Andy.
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Old 10-17-16, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
IF you can find them, the price for a pair will probably approach that of a lower end new hub.
Yeah, I noticed some prices are as high as $10 per cone. That's getting pretty close to the point at which I'd probably just buy another readymade wheel and save the original for if and when I ever luck into an affordable set of cones or a donor bike.

Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
Agreed that ft hubs typically have the same cone on both sides and that rears may or might not have the same cones. Freehubs often don't. But the bearing architecture usually is the same side to side. What isn't the same is the dust cap/seal/cone wrench flats aspects. So one can, most all the time exchange the left and right cones if one is willing to do some playing with spacers and assembly order (so to insure cone/lock nut tightness and the ability to adjust the bearing). Of course it's best to get the OEM cones for each side if possible. Andy.
Thanks, always appreciate the info you offer.

I may just clean and repack these hubs and either keep riding 'em until I buy new wheels, or retire them to another bike that's used only once a week or so for short distance errands. Although I suppose eventually the ball bearings will be damaged and in turn damage the hub housing races, which for now are still okay.

I wouldn't have even noticed the problem except one of the dust/grease caps popped slightly askew and was causing some friction. Figured I'd just clean and regrease both hubs while I had the wheel off the bike. When I inspected the cones on the front I figured the rear hub will be in equally rough condition.
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Old 05-02-21, 10:30 AM
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Can you tell me what 'size' are the cone nuts on the HB-RM50? I need to get a cone wrench to rebuild mine and don't want to buy a whole set of wrenches....

Thanks!
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Old 05-02-21, 11:46 AM
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This is how a company locks you into repeated sales.

They take a simple design, sell you on it.

Then when they have a near monopoly on market share, they start to customize symmetrically, first overall.

Then as the customer continues to be hooked - they customize asymmetrically.

And of course, as each generation comes out, they stop producing for the previous.

And of course, when you are faced with a repair you have only three choices:

1. Canabilize - if available.
2. Buy replacement parts IF someone has them in stock for a premium.
3. Buy the next generation.

Funny how 9 out of 10 generic Shimano compatible hubs use the same cones both sides.

The cone differentiation was never necessary, it was done purposefully.

Using a 3D printer, and a small case hardening unit and a surplus old-stock of hardened steel blank material acquired cheap, someone out there will find a way to monopolize the Shimano cone and old Campagnolo cone replacement market.

I actually make replacement axles for the original Shimano M525 . . ., their strip happy version of their front disc hub from way back when.

=8-|
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Old 05-10-21, 08:33 AM
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BTW: The answer to my question is "13".
I took the wheels apart again in order to measure the cone nut, put them back together, ordered a 13mm cone wrench and then did it all over again using the cone wrench to make sure I got the assembly properly tightened.
Thanks.
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Old 05-10-21, 11:53 AM
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Wheels Mfg Hub Cones
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