Are these brake pads still usable?
 

Are these pads still usable? I thought I might be able to clean them up with some sandpaper or a file and a pick. Mainly I wanted the brake pad holder but the rubber insert came with them. If the rubber is not usable, I'll just get some new inserts.

I am thinking to use Koo Stop black V2 insert on these. Are the rubber inserts universal?

https://i.imgur.com/LCBiDXkh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/MGohEEMh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/4KfMSShh.jpg

If the rubber is still lively I'd pick out the aluminum shards and call it good. If the rubber is hardened I'd toss them and get new inserts.

Sure, but cleaning out of the derbies dug into the pads then sanding down the glazed surface will help. Of course by then the pad thickness might approach the wear limit. And this effort might be beyond one's ability or patience to do.


So the short answer is "just replace them" for the cost it's cheap peace of mind. Andy.

If they're hardened, glazed or noisy, replace the inserts. You won't believe the difference in braking power. Life is too short and accidents too painful for bad brakes.

A couple of months ago I replaced the original V-brake pads on a bike I'd ridden for a year. The original pads looked like those in the photos above. The shop had only one pair of new pads (some generic pads), but for five bucks the mechanic let me have a pair of Kool Stop holders with inserts that still had some use left in 'em. The Kool Stop inserts were still smooth and pliable. I put the new pads on the rear and Kool Stop holders with the partially worn inserts up front.

The difference was amazing. Both were very good -- the generic pads were as good as the Kool Stop inserts and salmon pads on the cantilever brakes on my other bike. I can lock up rear wheel now, the brakes actually stop in wet weather, and they're virtually silent -- no squealing after toe-in, no grinding noises. They don't scrape aluminum shards off the rims.

I was literally grinding down my rims with the old pads and not getting anything in exchange. First bike I'd owned with V-brakes and I didn't realize they're supposed to stop much more strongly than cantis. They're one-finger brakes now, and I have to remember to go easy on the front brake to avoid locking up the front wheel.

I would replace them on condition alone. You will be surprised at how well a new shoe works.

-SP

Brake pads are relatively cheap. I'd throw them out. Not worth spending time over if you ask me.

The aluminum and/or rock/grit in those pads must come out if you want to use them though. A wire wheel in a drill will facilitate that. Maybe sand them down to but as others have said, if they are hard as a rock and more than a few years old, chuck 'em.

I would add that pads with that much metal bits in them very much indicates that you do not often clean off your rims after riding in gritty wet conditions.

Even a super fast dry rag wipe of the braking surface after each wet ride, we are talking 30 seconds here, will make a real diff in not having the grit that stays on your rims and pads that is hard on the rim surface and ends up with more and more little bits embedded in your pads--added bonus is that your braking stays stronger and is quieter and your rim is happier.

my take on it is that its kind of a snowballing thing, the more your rim is chewed up, the more bits get embedded in your pads, and so on.
Keeping on top of keeping the rims clean after wet rides goes a long way to stronger braking/less stuff in pads/rim surface staying in good shape, and its so fast to do with a dry rag.

I don't know the history because I pulled these pads out of a box of used parts in front of someone's house. Mainly I wanted the pad holder to install on a non-mechanically inclined friend's bike so she could change out the pads easily. If the pads are usable, then that would have been a bonus.

It MAY indicate that, but on the other hand, maybe not... I had a bike that came with Tektro CR720 brakes, whose OEM pads look just like these. Those pads seemed to pick up everything. I replaced the pads with Kool Stop pads, keeping the stock Tektro pad holders, and the new pads seem to be much less prone to embedded debris. (They stop a lot better than the stock pads, too.)

...not to say a quick wipe-down is a bad thing, though.

ah, righto. One of my bikes has the pad holder bits that I just change out only the actual pad, its handy. Just don't forget to use needle nose pliers to pull out the retainer clip thingee. Unfortunately on my bike, its just so much easier to pull out and slide in the new pads with the whole holder off the bike, that I have to take the time and reinstall them properly again against the rim with the proper angle, toe in or out or whatever it is--I mention this for your friend, hopefully she won't have to remove them, but mine very much are easier off the bike----that said, my Kool Stop slamon pads lasted me a good 4 or 5 seasons, so it doesnt happen often.

this reflects my experience changing to kool stop salmon softer pads also. Increased braking and seems easier on the rims also. I've certainly seen bikes in our family or with friends where the stock harder pads combined with never cleaning the rims really does seem to end up with the rims getting rough, bits of aluminum coming off, embedding in pads and generally waaaaay crappier braking power than my bike (braking systems almost identical), not to mention the horrible scraping noise when braking even when dry.

I really do believe its a snowball effect, all the combined factors end up being harder on the rims, hence more metal in the pads, more noise, and then hence more tearing out of bits of rim etc etc etc.