Cantilever brake pads short enough to clear fork
 

Kool Stop Eagle 2 pads are too long (64mm) to clear the fork on my Univega mountain bike (smooth post cantilever brakes). Not enough clearance to easily detach/reattach wheels with tires wider than 700x32 (I'm running 700x42 at the moment, and my narrowest tire is 700x35). I might go even wider which would require carrying tools to loosen the pads every time I fix a flat, and having to reset the pad adjustments, toe-in, etc., every time. I'd rather avoid that.

The original Shimano pads were 50mm, but are too age hardened to use. I'm not finding anything that short in the Kool Stop catalog. The Cross Pads at 54.5mm might be short enough.

Kool Stops are good but I'm not stuck on those, so I'd welcome any other recommendations. I'll keep the Eagle 2 pads for the rear.

You might try Dia-Compe cantilever pads. They are quite short, but it sounds like that is what you need.

Many bike shops carry them as generic replacements for service.

Short pads may not provide the best design in terms of stopping power.

Kool Stop has the Thin-line cantilever brake pads. It's a full length design that is extra thin to improve clearance. I can remove a 700x35 without deflating the tire, see;

http://www.koolstop.com/english/thinline.html

Hack saw or cut off wheel in a dremel.

I put a pair of Tektro cantis on a new Soma Grand Randonneur and run with 42 mm tires so have the same problem including with the seat stays. I avoid the resetting issue by backing off on the Allen bolt that holds the brakes to the canti bosses. As the bolt backs out I find I can slide the brake arm far enough with it to let the pads clear the fork arms/stays. It's a bit of an awkward workaround and occasionally I pull just a mm or two too far and the spring needs to be reset when I reverse the process but it does avoid touching the pad adjustment so a time saver in that respect. Still need the Allen key though to make it work.

Haven't worried too much about needing to follow this procedure for fixing a flat (yet to need to). I figure with the tire deflated removing the wheel will be no problem and I'll just wait until the wheel is back on before fully reinflating.

Those look like the old Shimano pads. Should do the trick, thanks.

Also looks like Shimano still makes similar pads for the Altus cantilever brakes, although I'm not finding a set sold separately from the complete brakes. I'll keep looking.

Yeah, I wondered about the Thinlines. I do appreciate the stronger and quieter braking of the Kool Stops.

Yeah, I'm hoping to avoid having to carry a bunch of tools to dismantle the bike for stuff like this. True, a fully flat tire would solve the problem of clearing the brakes even with wider tires. I suppose I was fixated on the hassles involved in recent wheel changes while overhauling hubs and using a substitute wheel, which was fully inflated and ready to go. Only way I could get it back on was to loosen the pads and readjust them after the wheel was mounted.

One thing I noticed with the Tektros is that the trailing edge is longer than the leading edge on the pads. If I was to reverse their orientation they'd clear the fork blades/seat stays. I wonder if that would change the stopping power of the brakes. I suspect it might if it was a wet braking situation.

For Cyclocross Kool Stop makes Road length brake shoes in both threaded and smooth post.

Kool Stop International - High Performance Bicycle Brake Pads Since 1977

TRP adjust in place brake shoes with a Bolt thru them, Offer a toe in adjustment on brakes that lacked that previously
like Mafac Cantilevers.
https://www.trpbrakes.com/category.p...1034&catid=187
(I put KS salmon pads in my TRP holders )





'/,

I thought about that but it wouldn't work well with the Kool Stop Eagle 2 pads. The back edge has a plow doodad to scrape off mud, and is also designed for easy toe-in setting. Just mash the entire pad flat against the rim in the desired position and crank down the locking bolt. Done.

I tried getting fancy the first time, using a shim in addition to the plow doodad to set toe-in, and it didn't work as well as just using Kool Stop's suggested method. Really good pads, which is why I'm a bit disappointed the front doesn't clear as well as I'd like.

Thanks, I'll take a look at those.

I put Kool stop eagle claws on my 1983 Specialized Expedition and found that the long end of the pads would not fit between the tire and fork in the front. I ended up cutting the long end off and they have worked out fine. The internal steel backbone in these pads is hardened and can't be cut with a hacksaw. After removing the rubber I scored the backbone with a file and it snapped off cleanly with pliers

Yep, I figured the backbone could hold up to cutting. I'd rather not mess up a good pad, though. I can still use 'em on the back. And the Eagle 2 design makes toe-in a snap. No squealing or chattering.

On another Bike I Use the long eagle 2, only reason I'd remove the front wheel was if I had a flat tire .
then the long pads trailing inside the fork blades dont interfere with a deflated tire ..

The wheel comes out easily..

Take it to the Bankster
 

Take it to the bank...