Winter maintenance question
#1
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Winter maintenance question
So its time to put the road bike away and get out the mountain bike....
Got my road bike disassembled just to clean, lube, do a check over. Gives me something to tinker with when its cold out side. I have never messed with a bottom bracket...ever. Not afraid of it but never done it. Its tight, no free play, turns smooth as the day it was new. Do I need to do anything with it? I guess I am wondering if there is value to removing it and putting some fresh grease on it? I know the pictures are of very little value, you all know what a BB looks like...
Got my road bike disassembled just to clean, lube, do a check over. Gives me something to tinker with when its cold out side. I have never messed with a bottom bracket...ever. Not afraid of it but never done it. Its tight, no free play, turns smooth as the day it was new. Do I need to do anything with it? I guess I am wondering if there is value to removing it and putting some fresh grease on it? I know the pictures are of very little value, you all know what a BB looks like...
#3
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Yes, even with good condition bearings the BB's threads will benefit from a cleaning and relubing. Ut looks like your frame is AL and likely that the BB outer threaded shell is steel. Avoiding galvanic issues is a really smart idea while it's easy to do. Andy.
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Looks like a cartridge BB. The actual bearings in those are just about never serviced, simply used until they develop troubling play.
As suggested, there's some merit to greasing the threads for future ease of removal.
You need a special splined tool, and something to keep it engaged as you unscrew the BB.
As suggested, there's some merit to greasing the threads for future ease of removal.
You need a special splined tool, and something to keep it engaged as you unscrew the BB.
#5
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Depends upon how many miles and in what conditions......rain, snow, salty air/road environment, etc.
If cartridge I would ride until it's no longer "smooth," then replace.
For vintage acquisitions, first thing I do is clean and repack bb.
If cartridge I would ride until it's no longer "smooth," then replace.
For vintage acquisitions, first thing I do is clean and repack bb.
#6
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I like and use cartridge square tapper BBs, that don't require maintenance. However, when first mounting them, I put a generous amount of copper grease on the threads (frame BB shell threads as well as cup - just in case ). I also put a generous amount of it on the axle, before mounting crank arms. Bolts tightening crank arms to the spindle also. That way they won't get stuck together, even after several winters. Grease drips off after a while, but a soft layer of copper stays, so once it's time for a replacement, nothing gets stuck. Even after several winters of salty road riding.
On my bicycles and bicycles I maintain regularly, I like to not tighten things hard, just check for play from time to time.
On bikes that come for a service after a long time and I don't know if they'll (and when) come back again, or the owner has 0 mechanical knowledge and won't bother checking for play until it is too late, I tighten hard. When removing such BBs, one needs a tool that can be held in place with a bolt. Like this:
On my bicycles and bicycles I maintain regularly, I like to not tighten things hard, just check for play from time to time.
On bikes that come for a service after a long time and I don't know if they'll (and when) come back again, or the owner has 0 mechanical knowledge and won't bother checking for play until it is too late, I tighten hard. When removing such BBs, one needs a tool that can be held in place with a bolt. Like this:
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What Slaninar refers to as "copper grease" is a form of anti-seize and is indeed a good choice for bottom bracket threads. There is a nickel based anti-seize available also and it works just as well. "Never-Seez" and "Permatex" are two makes of these products and any auto parts or good hardware store will carry them.
I also recommend removing, cleaning and regrease/anti-seize treating the cup threads as a precaution. The bolt Slaninar shows holding the removal tool in place is M8x1.0 threaded about 40 or 50 mm long to thread into the spindle bolt hole. It is not the more common M8x1.25 threading.
I also recommend removing, cleaning and regrease/anti-seize treating the cup threads as a precaution. The bolt Slaninar shows holding the removal tool in place is M8x1.0 threaded about 40 or 50 mm long to thread into the spindle bolt hole. It is not the more common M8x1.25 threading.
#8
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Thanks all I will remove clean out the BB, regrease. I have some better grease from my bike guy according to him anyways. Looks like I get to buy a new tool!!! That is always a good thing.
FWIW I have about 2K miles on the bike.
Two quick questions:
1: does it matter what side I unscrew first?
2: is this the correct tool?
Bottom Bracket Tool | Park Tool
thanks all!!
FWIW I have about 2K miles on the bike.
Two quick questions:
1: does it matter what side I unscrew first?
2: is this the correct tool?
Bottom Bracket Tool | Park Tool
thanks all!!
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1) Generally the ND side should be removed first
2) Probably.
You do know that the drive side is usually left-hand threaded, don't you?
2) Probably.
You do know that the drive side is usually left-hand threaded, don't you?
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If the non-drive side cup is plastic, be sure to remove the drive side FIRST. Otherwise it's not that important. As noted, the drive side is left-hand threaded and removes by turning it clockwise.
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yep, I know its threaded backwards, both sides seem to be of a steel lock ring so ND first. Got it.
I have taken bikes apart before but never messed with the BB. But never had a good roadbike before either. Heck never had a bike really worth maintaining to the degree I take care of my roadbike.
I have taken bikes apart before but never messed with the BB. But never had a good roadbike before either. Heck never had a bike really worth maintaining to the degree I take care of my roadbike.