Senrab62 

OK. Let me begin with the fact that I am averagely, mechanically inclined. Maybe even above average. The only time I use an LBS for services is if the tool cost doesn't justify the usage rate, or when it comes to truing wheels (have not tried, and do not have a truing stand). That being said, I have some questions/concerns regarding a build that is my second of the winter so far.

I have a chromed Schwinn Voyageur 11.8 that is too heavy with stock components, and just sits due to crappy drivetrain and redundancy in my stable. I am trying to thin my stable, and I want to do a build with this frame because it's chrome and so damn pretty. However, I am facing a major issue due to my mechanic deficiencies.

Frame spacing is 126mm for the dropouts and wheelset hub OLD is 120. Chainline is 46mm for the rear hub, but can be adjusted with spacers if required/needed.

Due to my calculations/measurements my Sugino double will fit just fine, no major issues with hub chainline. Crankset spacers may be required, but nothing radical. This is a plus.

My concern is that with the frame spacing variance of 6mm, that using spacers on the axle will cause the need for a redish and added expense. What would be an appropriate cost for redishing of a wheel on this?

I am not opposed to cold setting, but this is not a beater frame that I care to test on. I have read Sheldon's info regarding this as well as referenced the bike guys' tutorial on YouTube. The process seems painless and just requiring patience, but the expense of building or purchasing alignment tools and potential wrinkling of the frame is not something I look forward to. But is this the best option?

Also I have read about people just "squishing" the dropouts to fit the hub. This seems dicey to me, especially with the SA hub and ensuring that they are well fit in the dropouts. They are horizontal dropouts, so not being tight enough with the anti rotation gear is a bigger concern of mine due to durability and not wanting to chew up the dropouts unnecessarily. Any thoughts on this?

Any input and insight from you guys who generally are more knowledgeable is appreciated. Sorry for the lengthy post, but I am trying to get all my ducks in a row and all required parts purchased prior to undertaking this project. Hopefully I can fulfill my mind's eye vision, but if the hassle or expense is too great, I may just look for a different frameset.

Thanks in advance and happy holidays.

Bandera

That's the way to approach any Project, with detailed Requirements and skepticism that you can get "there" from "here".
Ducks do need to be of the same if not similar flock for success.

Do you have a built-up rear wheel of the proper rim size at hand or just a SA hub?
Either or: Install and see precisely how it fits into the rear dropout and measure both the spacing to fill the gap on both sides and the amount of threading left for axle nuts outside the dropout.

These hubs were not designed for the thick dropouts of 70's/80's road bikes or 126 spacing.

Get back w/ the data for possible solutions like a longer axle which will lead down the road of AW overhaul.

Staying tuned.

-Bandera

Senrab62 

Agreed. Early in my bicycling renaissance I would fiddle around and try to do things off the cuff sometimes with little knowledge or technical reference. Always ended up being a pain, expensive, or unreliable. I am too old for that stuff now lol. I like all my ducks to look the same!



In case it makes any difference, it is not an AW hub, although I do have one I am hoarding for a future old man townie idea.

It is a prebuilt SA S3X wheelset in 700C with 170mm axle length. It appears like it will fit, it is plenty long in my opinion. I will try to get some pics up, but I am terrible at actually posting pics. There is a significant gap (2.5-almost 4mm) per side between the locknuts and the dropouts depending on side. This is my concern with squeezing/spacers/cold setting. I want this to be as solid as possible and not be a constant adjustment issue with chainline or wheel slipping issues.

I have built a 126mm dropout frame with a 128mm hub, but the 1mm variance per side was barely noticeable and with the derailleur adjustments and more flexible chain, chainline was not an issue.

This build is different, so I am trying to ensure I have the best solution.

After reading more and rereading my post and response it seems that having my LBS add spacers and redish might be the best for long term performance and reliability and shouldn't be terribly expensive overall. They are closed for the holiday so I will call for a quote on Tuesday when they reopen. The guy is a ******, but fairly priced and actually and adept wheel builder.

Thanks for the response and any future knowledge or ideas!

tcs

120mm --> 126mm: Sturmey-Archer HMN132 3mm nut each side.

Bandera

A 3 spd IGH fixed gear, very interesting.
I've kept an eye out for a suitable frameset to do that conversion myself.

A 170mm axle with proper spacers ( adding threaded locknuts on both sides as @tcs noted) should get you where you need to be.
That being said I haven't done the conversion myself (yet) but a PM to @JohnDThompson who has one in service will get you direct expert advice from a BF member who is also a frame builder.

Good duck,

-Bandera

JohnDThompson 

As long as you put the same amount of spacer on each side (3mm each), there's no need to re-dish as the rim will remain centered between the locknuts. A greater concern would be if your axle is too short. Will you have enough threads engaged to secure the wheel in the frame after adding a 3mm spacer to each side?

Dan Burkhart 

In that case, using the anti rotation washers inside facing out as spacers will free up some axle space outside the dropouts. I've done this several times with SA hubs, although not with a S3X.
If using a splined cog, the S3X has some chainline flexibility by rearranging spacers on the driver.

fietsbob

Info:

AW 3
specs https://www.sturmey-archer.com/files/...0IGH%20S3S.pdf

parts https://www.sturmey-archer.com/files/...0AW%20SRF3.pdf

S3X
specs https://www.sturmey-archer.com/files/...0IGH%20S3X.pdf

parts https://www.sturmey-archer.com/files/...%20-%20S3X.pdf







...

JohnDThompson 

Good point!

Senrab62 

@Bandera, @tcs, @JohnDThompson, @fietsbob, @danburkhart : Thanks all for the help! I finally had some free time to mess around with the axle, spacer, and lock washers. I found a fit using the lock washers in lieu of the spacers and it seems to work flawlessly!

I am excited to get my build going, though time is scarce at the moment. But 15-20 mins sporadically will add up eventually.

I am still debating on using the voyageur as a frameset though. I have a Prelude with the same spacing and slightly narrower dropout width, but shorter dropout length. Anyone have any input on this?

Thanks again though. BF, though it can be trying at times, is a wealth of information. Members like you make it great!

Bandera

You are most welcome, glad that worked, those guys know their stuff.

As far as framesets are concerned longer horizontal dropouts offer easy adjustment of chain tension & just as important are less finicky in the inevitable changing of gearing that is part of getting an IGH or FG dialed in for you & your terrain. Not having a screw around adding/removing chain links or finding that a 1/2 link has to be sourced is a good thing.

The Voyager is also a very compliant frameset on irregular pavement, something that you might appreciate as on a FG one cannot simply rise off of the saddle and coast over the rough stuff.

-Bandera