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Rust in rim is peircing inner tubes

Old 01-04-17, 04:10 PM
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Rust in rim is peircing inner tubes

Hey so my back rim for my puegeot carbolite 103 (old 10 speed) is rusted. The bike is ridable but the guy in the bikeshop said I will need a new rim soon as there is a clump of rust inside the rim that will eventually peirce my new inner tube.

Is there a way for me to remove this rust and restore the wheel to good as new or will I have to buy a new rim. Buying a rim isnt that simple for this bike as the width of the rear wheel axel is smaller than the standard 700c axels these days.

So any advice? Should I just try and find an old wheel in good condition or is there a way to remove the rust?

The whole back wheel is a bit rusty but there is rust inside the wheel as well as outside.
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Old 01-04-17, 04:16 PM
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Clean it up with some steel wool, sandpaper, etc. Paint it with something. I'm talking the inside. You must use a rim liner, right?
Enjoy it, look for a better wheel. Live on.

Hope this helps.

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Old 01-04-17, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by flik9999
. . . So any advice? . . .
Just a crazy guess: "a new rim soon."
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Old 01-04-17, 04:18 PM
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Rust doesn't magically pierce inner tubes, so there's no immediate concern.

You can wire brush, sand, or use a "rust converter" product to clean it up and slow the progress. Then paint or otherwise coat it to prevent new rust to preserve the life of the rim. As for the inner tube, whatever base tape you're using to protect it from the spoke nipples is fine, just make sure it's covering any possible sharp places.
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Old 01-04-17, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
Rust doesn't magically pierce inner tubes, so there's no immediate concern.

You can wire brush, sand, or use a "rust converter" product to clean it up and slow the progress. Then paint or otherwise coat it to prevent new rust to preserve the life of the rim. As for the inner tube, whatever base tape you're using to protect it from the spoke nipples is fine, just make sure it's covering any possible sharp places.
A rust hole could be sharp enough to pierce a tube.

I haven't done much with steel rims. But, see what your rim tape covers. Better/wider rim tape?

I like black electrical tape for some things. Not covering nipples, but it might cover rusty spots.

As far as wheel widths, there are a LOT of options.
  • If the hub is good, rebuild a new wheel using old hub + new spokes. A bit technically challenging, but most people can do it if you exercise a whole lot of patience. Or, it may not be much different to get a wheel built using your parts than buying new.
  • Many newer hubs can have spacers moved around and axles cut to change spacing. This often affects the dishing, but that can be fixed with moderate effort.
  • Used Wheels?
  • 27" is becoming less common, but still supported to some extent.
  • Don't go to too many gears in the back...
Oh, and old steel frames can be permanently re-spaced (cold set) to take wider hub if you wish.
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Old 01-04-17, 04:54 PM
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Ok Im not sure but I dont think my wheel has rim tape think its an inner tube placed on a bare wheel. My wheel is also one of the few bikes from that era that is 700c. Ill look out for some rim tape and ill get some sanding paper to remove some of the worst rusty parts.

Thanks guys.
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Old 01-04-17, 05:01 PM
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If you have an electric drill, you might want to get a wire wheel for it and motorize things.
Afterwards, spray 1 coat of Rustoleum on the inside.
You may want to mask the brake track??
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Old 01-04-17, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
If you have an electric drill, you might want to get a wire wheel for it and motorize things.
Afterwards, spray 1 coat of Rustoleum on the inside.
You may want to mask the brake track??

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Old 01-04-17, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by flik9999
Ok Im not sure but I dont think my wheel has rim tape think its an inner tube placed on a bare wheel. My wheel is also one of the few bikes from that era that is 700c. Ill look out for some rim tape and ill get some sanding paper to remove some of the worst rusty parts.

Thanks guys.
What kind of crappy bike mechanic would send a rim out without either rim tape or a liner**********??
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Old 01-04-17, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by flik9999
Ok Im not sure but I dont think my wheel has rim tape think its an inner tube placed on a bare wheel.
It's very poor practice to use a wheel without either rim tape or a rim strip. It's only a matter of time before the spoke nipples erode a hole in the inner tube.

That you have rust on the rim indicates you have steel rims. If you have caliper brakes that use the rim sidewalls as the braking surface (as opposed to disk, drum, or coaster brakes), you will enjoy a significant improvement in braking performance if you replace the rim (or wheel) with an aluminum rim, particularly in wet conditions.
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Old 01-04-17, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
It's very poor practice to use a wheel without either rim tape or a rim strip. It's only a matter of time before the spoke nipples erode a hole in the inner tube.

That you have rust on the rim indicates you have steel rims. If you have caliper brakes that use the rim sidewalls as the braking surface (as opposed to disk, drum, or coaster brakes), you will enjoy a significant improvement in braking performance if you replace the rim (or wheel) with an aluminum rim, particularly in wet conditions.
I rarely (make that very rarely) disagree with John, but do slightly in this case.

Right now you have a functional wheel, that needs a bit of work you can do yourself. The rim tape is definitely necessary, as it is on all wheels. But if the wheel is otherwise OK, it matches the other on your vintage bike, so I wouldn't be looking to replace or upgrade it ---- yet, especially since you're already used to the brake performance.

OTOH - I'd put the wheel on the "no more money into this" list, and the first o next time it needs anything expensive, that's when I'd replace it with a new wheel, or new rim on this hub, and as John said, upgrade to aluminum.
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Old 01-04-17, 09:56 PM
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Out of interest if I had an alluminium back wheel, steel front wheel would the braking be roughly equal? Can someone explain how alluminium is stronger for breaks than steel? Also is it the back wheel that effects acceleration or just weight in general my specialised sirrus hybrid is about the same weight but is easier to get it going (In the highest gear combo), is this because its alluminium hubs?
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Old 01-04-17, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by flik9999
Out of interest if I had an alluminium back wheel, steel front wheel would the braking be roughly equal? Can someone explain how alluminium is stronger for breaks than steel? Also is it the back wheel that effects acceleration or just weight in general my specialised sirrus hybrid is about the same weight but is easier to get it going (In the highest gear combo), is this because its alluminium hubs?
First of all, whatever weight difference there might be in the wheels, I doubt it's material enough to be obvious when you accelerate. Keep in mind that you're accelerating a large mass consisting of you and the bike. Even though weight at the rim counts more than non rotating weight, you're still talking about changes in the 1% or so range.

As for braking, as opposed to breaking, the issue is the frictional properties of the surface. The chrome plating on your steel rim is simply more slippery than aluminum. Think of it as the difference between wrestling with a pig, and wrestling with a greased pig.

BTW - each brake is independent of the other. In practice, during a hard stop most of your braking power will come from the front because the rear is prone to skidding. So, if one had a choice, they'd opt to have the better brake in front. But you don't have a choice, and will be replacing your wheels based on the fickle fingers of fate, also known as potholes.
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Old 01-05-17, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by flik9999
Buying a rim isnt that simple for this bike as the width of the rear wheel axel is smaller than the standard 700c axels these days.
A hub/frame spacing mismatch doesn't mean that things won't fit. If you've got a steel frame, the dropout width can be adjusted by "cold setting" or slightly bending the frame. Or if it's only a slight mismatch, you may be able to spring the dropouts apart a little bit with just a little finger pressure when you install the wheel. Both are common practice.

But if you've got a Carbolite 103 frame, the bike probably dates to the 1980s and there's a good chance it's spaced at 126 mm to accommodate 6-speed hubs. Those are still available -- here's a set of such wheels from Velomine.
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Old 01-05-17, 01:12 PM
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Lost the Rim tape? the rubber stuff gets old and Breaks Velox Cotton rim tape absorbs the rust under it

that is primarily because the Rim is steel and the holes were drilled after the steel was chrome Plated..


Long stopping distances when wet is strike 2 against rim brakes on Steel Rims.




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