Bottom Bracket Problem?
 

Good evening everyone,

I have a 2013 Specialized Crosstrails. Recently I have felt/heard a 'click' through the pedals. It occurs on the downstroke, just before the crank reaches horizontal. it occurs for both pedals, so every 180 degrees of rotation of the crank.

I pulled one of the crank arms off of the bike several months ago to work on the front sprockets. When I first noticed the clicking, I tightened the central screw on both sides. The screws were not loose, but I was still able to get about 15 degrees of rotation on both sides. The clicking is now less noticeable, but still there. I don't know a lot about bike mechanics, but this seems to be pointing towards a problem in the Bottom Bracket.

Does this sound right?

Jeff

I had clicking like that and finally tracked it down to a rear cluster that was not torqued to specs.

That is so rare that it hardly is worth mentioning. Best to focus on common causes that are probably in total at least 50 times more likely.

If you mean by "in the bottom bracket" that it is a bearing problem, then no, that is not a correct assumption. The bottom bracket mechanism itself is very rarely the problem. Some possible causes that are more likely are (not in exact order):

• Insufficiently tightened crank bolts (not screws), pedals or chainwheel bolts, or BB not sufficiently tightened onto frame.
• Contamination or lack of lubrication on mating surfaces (crank to spindle, crank to pedal, BB to frame).
• Pedal/cleat movement

Try the cheap and easy things first. Swap out the pedals for a known-quiet pair, preferably platform type so that you can rule out shoe or cleat noise. Clean and grease both pedal and crank threads; this alone may clear up the noise so you might try it with the current pedals first. Then clean, lube and tighten all crank-related fasteners as suggested by cny-bikeman

Pedals would be my first thought.

Square taper crank?

If that's the case, I'd be for finding a torque wrench to tighten that central bolt. The torque spec for that bolt is usually around 30 ft/lbs. That's more than I would use is left to my own judgement. If those bolts are under torqued, you can round out the square holes on your crankarms.

If you had been riding around for any length of time with loose crank arms, the arms may have been damaged such that they no longer seat firmly on the spindle. Remove the arms and look for damage in the square broach where the axle fits. If it is chewed up or gouged, you'll need new crank arm(s).

I'll second AlexCyclistRoch with a pedal issue. A loose pedal can cause clicking, and the first thing I'd check before you go tearing into the BB.

Actually any of the many parts that when assembled become a crank/pedal/BB system can be the cause of clicks. So as mentioned one starts with the easy to get at and easy to deal with parts. Pedals, chain ring bolts and crank arm retaining bolts are the first I go to. Yet at work we see many BBs loose in the frame or just work out too. Andy

Thanks for all of the replies. I only have the stock set of platform pedals on the bike, so changing these to would require buying a second set. I hear/feel the problem on both sides, though. As I am pressing down on each pedal it occurs when the crank is just above horizontal. Although stranger things have certainly happened, it seems unlikely to me that both pedals would simultaneously develop a problem. As someone pointed out, tightening and lubing the pedals is cheap and easy.

If that is not it, I'll start in on the other options. Thanks everyone for your input, I'll update as I go along!

Jeff

The regular click on the downstroke of my right foot -- about like you described -- turned out to be slightly loose chain rings on a Shimano Exage triple. I can't reach a couple of lock nuts from the rear without disassembling the whole mess so I need to tighten the accessible bolts as best I can once a week or so until I have time to do it right. When it's freshly tightened it'll be quiet for a day or so before that slight clicking resumes on the same place in the downstroke of my right foot. I plan to use Loctite when I finally have time to overhaul the entire mess -- probably long overdue for this 1992 mountain bike.

BTW, I'd already eliminated the pedals as source -- I swapped out the crunchy original Sakae Low Fat pedals for a new pair of Stolen Pedals Thermalites. I put the old Sakae pedals as-is on another bike. No change in the clicking sound on the mountain bike that originally wore the Low Fats.

I am also agree, sometimes the solution of bicycle problems are so easy... Also check seatpost ann seatpost clamp...

Make sure the bottom bracket itself is securely tightened in the frame and isn't starting to work loose. Do you have a square taper crank/BB?

I would include the shoes in that system, particularly if they are the clipless variety.

Seems like it'd be a good idea to rule out the BB first, or at least as well.


With the bike firmly on the ground, grab both cranks and try to wiggle them laterally. If there's play, it's probably time for a new bottom bracket.

BB Maintenance / Replacement
 

It's been a while since I checked in on this.

I was able to get a second set of pedals to try out and the problem is still there. Double checked the chainring bolts as well.

I am going to go ahead and check out the BB. This brings up a few questions about the BB assembly on my stock 2013 Specialized Crosstrail.

1. Is there a special tool required to get the BB out? (I already have a tool to pull the crank)

2. What are the specs for a replacement BB? I have been doing some homework on these, and my head is full of terms like BB30, PF86/92, BB90, Conventional Thread, Italian thread, British Thread, yada, yada, yada... What do I have on my bike?

3. Maybe I can service and re-install the stock unit. If I can't I'll be looking for a quality replacement. I don't want the super duper, expensive units, but I learned a long time ago the pit falls of buying the cheapest thing out there.

4. Where do you learn about all this stuff? There seems to be a dizzying assortment of aftermarket parts for bikes, and I am struggling to learn what the specs on my bike are so I can choose the right stuff.

Thanks again for the help!

Jeff

1- Yes. any BB type has it's specific tools to remove and/or install. So what type do you have?
2- Replacement BBs need to be the same as what you already have to work the same, or at all. The bike in not in front of me so I can't tell you which BB type or spec you have. (This is why many will work with a LBS that can see the bike).
3- Once you find out which spec/type of BB you have then it's an easy step to price shop the options.
4- The first step is to find out what BB you have now. Searching on line for a spec list of your model bike might be that step. Then there's the mechanical step. Having a reference that can be next to you and your bike while doing the work is nice. Park's Big Blue Book comes to mind.
Andy.

stock 2013 Specialized Crosstrail

Only a couple of clicks got me this list of specs. https://bikeindex.org/bikes/37092 So if this matches with the actual bike in front of you we know you have a common tapered square BB of unknown shell width and spindle length (but Eng. threading). So put out of your mind all other BB types for now and for this situation.


IIRC you said you have the correct crank arm puller. If so the do so and you can directly measure the BB spindle length. Measuring the shell width is also straight forward. With all this you have the replacement answer. I suspect that you'll find your current BB is non serviceable. Andy.

OK, my spindle is 113 mm. The shell is 68 mm wide. Pray tell how this identifies the correct bottom bracket for my bike. How do you know it is English threading?

Bottom brackets (tapered square style) are speced by 1- threading, 2- spindle width, 3- shell width. You now have each.


How did I know the threading is English? because most all Asian bikes are. I used to sell Specialized and I never came across a threaded Bb shell one that wasn't English. Wild guess, no. Experience. Andy.

Great. You used to sell them and are an expert. I know very little. Having your three numbers does not tell me which BB to get. Please dip into your vast store of knowledge and share.

Perhaps now you need a bike shop to do the rest. Sorry but I've tried to give you the specs. if you are unable to go forward then this is why your local professionals exist.


I'm sure others in more complicated fields have had the same frustration when the horse says it's thirsty and after being led to the water the horse can't drink. Sorry to be so down but the Op needs hand on help and this is the interweb where we can't reach out and touch that hand. Andy

I don't know a lot about bikes, but I am perfectly capable of putting in a new part, if I have the right one. I've repaired my car, my motorcycle, and any number of other things. It doesn't make me a bike expert, but I know I am handy enough to install a few parts on my own bike. really can't understand why you can't help a person out with a part number or at least narrow it down to a bracket standard.

As far as I can tell there are about a dozen standards out there for Bottom Brackets:
BB90/BB95, PF86/92, BB30, BB30A, PF30.... and the list just goes on. I cannot tell how any of what you have said helps me narrow it down to the right standard. Are you saying a square spindle 113 mm long fitting in a 68 mm shell is exclusive to one of these?