VeloCals
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VeloCals
This might be a dumb question because VeloCals clearly states " when applying decals to new paint , paint shall be dried for two weeks " . I'm getting close to finished with the paint on my Nishiki build and I don't think I can wait that long , what do you think ?
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Yes they even explained it , paint gasses off and will cause bubbles . The why not is because I messed the job up 5 times and now I think I'm good and I want to see those decals on .
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Messed it up five times and still haven't learned patience?
Let the paint enjoy the elements for a while and it will all be a memory next July.
-Tim-
Let the paint enjoy the elements for a while and it will all be a memory next July.
-Tim-
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So, after 5 rimes, you're determined not to wait end ensure number 6 sooner rather than later?
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Many paints are temperature sensitive WRT their curing or off gassing, but some might not be so. Have you researched your paint's chemistry? Where did you purchase the paint? can they lend any insight? Can the paint manufacturer answer your questions? have you tried any of these chances of greater info specific to the paint you've used?
I suspect no. By going to a generalized forum which has extremely little to do with the issue at hand what were you expecting? I hope my attitude is unwarranted, that you have sought out EXPERT advice. Andy.
I suspect no. By going to a generalized forum which has extremely little to do with the issue at hand what were you expecting? I hope my attitude is unwarranted, that you have sought out EXPERT advice. Andy.
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...IME, you can build up a bike, ride it, and apply the decals later (although it is easier on a bare frame.) But when I paint a frame, I wait a month or two with it hanging in the garage before I mess with it at all. Just ride or work on something else in the meantime.
...IME, you can build up a bike, ride it, and apply the decals later (although it is easier on a bare frame.) But when I paint a frame, I wait a month or two with it hanging in the garage before I mess with it at all. Just ride or work on something else in the meantime.
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Last year I sandblasted primed,basecoated and then applied 1 coat of clearcoat then applied decals,from VeloCal, then applied 2 more coats of clearcoat. I did not have any issues. Not sure why. I was working with the time windows between application of the different products.
Yesterday I sandblasted 2 frames and sprayed them with primer. This time I am going to make our own waterslide decals.
Yesterday I sandblasted 2 frames and sprayed them with primer. This time I am going to make our own waterslide decals.
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...IME, you can build up a bike, ride it, and apply the decals later (although it is easier on a bare frame.) But when I paint a frame, I wait a month or two with it hanging in the garage before I mess with it at all. Just ride or work on something else in the meantime.
...IME, you can build up a bike, ride it, and apply the decals later (although it is easier on a bare frame.) But when I paint a frame, I wait a month or two with it hanging in the garage before I mess with it at all. Just ride or work on something else in the meantime.
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Last year I sandblasted primed,basecoated and then applied 1 coat of clearcoat then applied decals,from VeloCal, then applied 2 more coats of clearcoat. I did not have any issues. Not sure why. I was working with the time windows between application of the different products.
Yesterday I sandblasted 2 frames and sprayed them with primer. This time I am going to make our own waterslide decals.
Yesterday I sandblasted 2 frames and sprayed them with primer. This time I am going to make our own waterslide decals.
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I find it interesting that only one person has mentioned their paint type. And it wasn't the OP. Sorry to go on about this but details count. So maybe the OP can tell us the paint type and maybe what the paint's directions say about dry (or is it cure, since we don't know) time.
Then there's the old way which is to have a sample of the paint then apply a sample decal to it and see what happens.
I really don't think there should be a problem. But there can be a large gap between what one thinks and what might happen. Andy.
Then there's the old way which is to have a sample of the paint then apply a sample decal to it and see what happens.
I really don't think there should be a problem. But there can be a large gap between what one thinks and what might happen. Andy.
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Oops, I waited about 2 days , before applying Veocals to a recent project. It's been 3 weeks now and no issues. I used enamel can spray paint.
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kcblair , well good for you . i'm wondering which ones you used mine are the 2 mil vinyl and it says use acrylic paint .
Andy , because you asked (sort of) nice , really when you type in big letters I think you are yelling at me but I didn't cry or anything . I'm using Krylon Fluorescent and Krylon clear coat (both are acrylic) dry time 15 min.
Andy , because you asked (sort of) nice , really when you type in big letters I think you are yelling at me but I didn't cry or anything . I'm using Krylon Fluorescent and Krylon clear coat (both are acrylic) dry time 15 min.
Last edited by markwesti; 01-16-17 at 08:36 PM.
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I hope you have a product that Krylon doesn't list on their site, since searching for fluorescent paints only yields marking paints--not suitable for long-term coverage.
*edit* I did find the product .
Also, there is a big difference between dry-to-the-touch, dry-to-handle, and fully cured. Read the label on the can carefully, or seek out the product line on Krylon's website/call them about it. The actual pertinent information (re-coat windows, cure time) is lacking from the webpage.
*edit* I did find the product .
Also, there is a big difference between dry-to-the-touch, dry-to-handle, and fully cured. Read the label on the can carefully, or seek out the product line on Krylon's website/call them about it. The actual pertinent information (re-coat windows, cure time) is lacking from the webpage.
Last edited by wschruba; 01-16-17 at 11:09 PM.
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kcblair , well good for you . i'm wondering which ones you used mine are the 2 mil vinyl and it says use acrylic paint .
Andy , because you asked (sort of) nice , really when you type in big letters I think you are yelling at me but I didn't cry or anything . I'm using Krylon Fluorescent and Krylon clear coat (both are acrylic) dry time 15 min.
Andy , because you asked (sort of) nice , really when you type in big letters I think you are yelling at me but I didn't cry or anything . I'm using Krylon Fluorescent and Krylon clear coat (both are acrylic) dry time 15 min.
Two days later I applied the Velocal decals.
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Thank you all for following up with the paint brand/types. This is a big deal if one, say, was going to spray a lacquer over an enamel or was using a catalyzed paint and was leaving the frame in a cold garage.
markwesti- You're right, in that I showed my frustrations. The initial lack of information yet expectation were at odds with each other IMO. Also sorry if you took my one word that was in all caps as yelling, it was to place a higher emphasis on that point. If we were talking in person I would likely have slowed down my delivery at that word to focus on it. It can be hard to represent the many manors of speech in this medium. I guess I need to try harder.
Lastly having suffered decal damage during a paint job myself (on a frame I built no less) I really share your concerns. I hope that this is not lost on the readers. Andy (who's glad all the paint jobs worked out).
markwesti- You're right, in that I showed my frustrations. The initial lack of information yet expectation were at odds with each other IMO. Also sorry if you took my one word that was in all caps as yelling, it was to place a higher emphasis on that point. If we were talking in person I would likely have slowed down my delivery at that word to focus on it. It can be hard to represent the many manors of speech in this medium. I guess I need to try harder.
Lastly having suffered decal damage during a paint job myself (on a frame I built no less) I really share your concerns. I hope that this is not lost on the readers. Andy (who's glad all the paint jobs worked out).
Last edited by Andrew R Stewart; 01-17-17 at 09:01 AM. Reason: spelling
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Just joking around a little bit Andy . Because I'm not by any means a painter I should stick with easy to use stuff
the Fluorescent paint was difficult and I was also trying to do a fade . I started another frame and used Krylon Shimmer, it's metallic it goes on nice and smooth the other stuff got a lot of orange peel .
the Fluorescent paint was difficult and I was also trying to do a fade . I started another frame and used Krylon Shimmer, it's metallic it goes on nice and smooth the other stuff got a lot of orange peel .
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i think you should follow directions, i don't understand the difficulty in that, but it's your bike do what you want to it, then later when it fails simply repaint all over again and get all new decals again, that might make you think about waiting the second time around
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Up date on the Velocals . Unmitigated disaster period . I blame myself however I feel that the instructions are a little vague on one very important issue and that would be the last step of the clear coat . Instructions say use Dupli-Color acrylic enamel or 2 part acrylic urethane , to me the key was acrylic . they do say do not use lacquer . I used acrylic (clear coat) the colors ran .