Stuck on highest gear in cold weather
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Stuck on highest gear in cold weather
Now that it's getting colder in Pennsylvania I've been having issues where by my rear derailleur often gets stuck in the highest gear. If the temperature is around 40 degrees I can usually fix it mid ride, but if it's 20 degrees or below it will always switch to the highest gear within just a few seconds of pedaling.
Playing around with the barrel adjuster doesn't seem to help, though it does loosen the cable as expected.
I didn't have this problem last winter. Since then I replaced my rear shifter and cable. Either I installed it improperly or I need to apply more lube to something. The fact that it has trouble only in cold weather is interesting...
As for parts, my rear shifter is a 7-speed SRAM SX-4 and the rear derailleur is an SRAM SX-5. I attached some screenshots in case it's helpful.
Playing around with the barrel adjuster doesn't seem to help, though it does loosen the cable as expected.
I didn't have this problem last winter. Since then I replaced my rear shifter and cable. Either I installed it improperly or I need to apply more lube to something. The fact that it has trouble only in cold weather is interesting...
As for parts, my rear shifter is a 7-speed SRAM SX-4 and the rear derailleur is an SRAM SX-5. I attached some screenshots in case it's helpful.
Last edited by sebby64; 01-14-17 at 11:48 AM. Reason: Terminology
#2
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OK given the way you push the RD to a lower gear is by pulling it there with the cable,
replace the cable and housing, it's probably seized up.
...
replace the cable and housing, it's probably seized up.
...
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Lubrication can and does stiffen up with cold weather. Water, in the cables or shifter, can freeze hindering functions.
But does the rear der move to the high gear on it's own with no input from you? Or does this only happen after trying to shift (and you've moved the shift lever)? For the der to move spontaneously, on it's own, is not the usual dysfunction. Also how does the chain move back to an easier gear later? Do you move the shift lever or does the der, again, spontaneously move back?
Last is that of terms you use. I would suggest not using the term "front" when referring to the rear shift lever. It can be confusing to some who then think you've changed the topic to the shifter that controls the front der. Andy.
But does the rear der move to the high gear on it's own with no input from you? Or does this only happen after trying to shift (and you've moved the shift lever)? For the der to move spontaneously, on it's own, is not the usual dysfunction. Also how does the chain move back to an easier gear later? Do you move the shift lever or does the der, again, spontaneously move back?
Last is that of terms you use. I would suggest not using the term "front" when referring to the rear shift lever. It can be confusing to some who then think you've changed the topic to the shifter that controls the front der. Andy.
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In colder conditions the derailleur moves to the high gear on its own, and the chain does not move back to an easier gear ever. I will start my ride on gear 3 and within a minute it will go to the highest gear and stay stuck until I get down and fix the chain by hand. But then a minute later it will get stuck in the highest gear again.
When I try shifting to lower gears the derailleur moves slightly forward but not as much left as it should. Even switching to the lowest gear does not move it enough to fix itself.
Also thanks for the terminology correction, I'll edit the original post.
When I try shifting to lower gears the derailleur moves slightly forward but not as much left as it should. Even switching to the lowest gear does not move it enough to fix itself.
Also thanks for the terminology correction, I'll edit the original post.
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So you need to separate out the various components to help find the cause. Detach the cable from the rear der. and leave the rest of the cable in place. Grab the now freed up end of the inner cable and give it a slight tug while you move the shift lever one way to it's end of range then shift lever then again but back to the high gear end of the range. if the shift lever is functioning well there will be a felt and heard stop/position and click with each gear choice in both directions. The cable should be easy to slide within the casing sections as you do this. If the cable is feeling sticky you can slip the casing ends out of the frame stops and slide each section along it's portion of the inner cable to find which casing section has the ruse or fraying in it. Another issue with indexed casing is that the spirals making up the structure of the casing can punch through the casing end caps. BTW this is a good time to drip some light oil onto and by capillary action into the casing sections. Assuming both the shifter and cable move through their ranges well then look at the der next. Keeping the cable detached lift the back wheel off the ground (hang the bike from a piece of rope from the ceiling, looped around the seat) and pedal it with one hand. use the other hand and push the der in to the low gear then let go of the der. The der (and chain) should move in and out through it's range freely with only the return spring's effort to over come or to return the der to the high position.
If all works well and the cable lubing made no felt change to the cable's movement (which at this point is being moved by the shifter freely and smoothly) then reattach the cable and readjust the der range limits and then the cable "tension" for the index coordination. Now ride the bike again and report back.
If some aspect of this testing goes poorly then you need to service/replace that aspect. Andy.
If all works well and the cable lubing made no felt change to the cable's movement (which at this point is being moved by the shifter freely and smoothly) then reattach the cable and readjust the der range limits and then the cable "tension" for the index coordination. Now ride the bike again and report back.
If some aspect of this testing goes poorly then you need to service/replace that aspect. Andy.
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In colder conditions the derailleur moves to the high gear on its own, and the chain does not move back to an easier gear ever. I will start my ride on gear 3 and within a minute it will go to the highest gear and stay stuck until I get down and fix the chain by hand. But then a minute later it will get stuck in the highest gear again.
When I try shifting to lower gears the derailleur moves slightly forward but not as much left as it should. Even switching to the lowest gear does not move it enough to fix itself.
Also thanks for the terminology correction, I'll edit the original post.
When I try shifting to lower gears the derailleur moves slightly forward but not as much left as it should. Even switching to the lowest gear does not move it enough to fix itself.
Also thanks for the terminology correction, I'll edit the original post.
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In colder conditions the derailleur moves to the high gear on its own, and the chain does not move back to an easier gear ever. I will start my ride on gear 3 and within a minute it will go to the highest gear and stay stuck until I get down and fix the chain by hand. But then a minute later it will get stuck in the highest gear again.
When I try shifting to lower gears the derailleur moves slightly forward but not as much left as it should. Even switching to the lowest gear does not move it enough to fix itself.
When I try shifting to lower gears the derailleur moves slightly forward but not as much left as it should. Even switching to the lowest gear does not move it enough to fix itself.
On-line diagnosis is fraught with peril, but my guess is that your cable may be fraying, and the derailer is gunked up severely. You could start with the cleaning and re-lube wphamilton suggested, but be ready to replace the derailer cable (or have it replaced).
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I think it's time for new cables and housing and thoroughly cleaning the derailleur as well as lubing it afterwards.
I lube my gear cables where they go out the frame under the bottom bracket as well the derailleur pivot points and the jockey wheels where bearings are (don't take them apart) everytime I clean my drivetrain in the winter time. Since then I haven't had any frozen derailleurs.
I lube my gear cables where they go out the frame under the bottom bracket as well the derailleur pivot points and the jockey wheels where bearings are (don't take them apart) everytime I clean my drivetrain in the winter time. Since then I haven't had any frozen derailleurs.