plustax

I'm replacing my rear wheel as it has a groove in each side from my brakes wearing down. so my question is this: if I buy these three items if they will work together?
Wheel:

https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silve...6%3A1253556011

Freewheel:

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourn...6V2T4AZPTTFTYN

Chain:

https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Z-72-7-8s...0010Z2N9TJTTJ3

I also have a front chainring, but I'm not sure what type it is. It's an original part from a 1989 Raleigh Technium that was made in late 88 / early 89.

Retro Grouch 

1. There's a question about the dropout spacing of your bike frame and the OLD (over locknut dimension) of the rim. The likely choices range from 126 mm to 135 mm. If you're picky you can dial it in so it's perfect or, if you just want to ride, use it as is.

2. You don't really need a freewheel tool to install it the first time, but will probably eventually need one when you need to take it off. If you don't already have one or have access to one, this might be a good time.

3. You are going to need a rim strip.

4. Your new chain is going to be too long. If you don't have a chain tool you'll need one to shorten it. I'm a fan of the big/big method for determining chain length. Post back if you don't know what that means.

5. Rims aren't all the same width. There's a good chance you'll want to adjust your brakes to your new rim.

Good luck.

plustax

1. I don't see the rim length on the wheel that I linked. I don't know my drop out length off the top of my head but it is easy enough to measure.

2. Noted.

3. Already have it.

4. No clue what big big is. You mean having thechain on the big rear cog and the big chain ring as a max length? I got a chain tool either way.

5. Yeah, this is true. Done it before so it shouldn't be to hard (I'm sure I've jinxed myself with this comment).

Thanks.

Retro Grouch 

You got it:
1. Wrap your new chain around your biggest front and rear sprockets bypassing the rear derailleur.
2. Figure out the shortest place that you could rejoin the chain.
3. Add one inch of chain to that. That might be one narrow link and one wide link or it might be one narrow link and one master link (or whatever they call it).
That's the shortest chain that will safely work with your gearing combination.

I gotta say it: When you thread your new chain through your derailleur arm, watch out for that little tab that's supposed to go over the chain. Don't ask me how I know about that.

plustax

Not sure I follow you on what you mean by this. Sounds like it was a bad time for you though.

wschruba

It will create a clattering, but functional[ish] drivetrain--the chain will be sliding over a metal ear on the derailleur. Park Tool's website has an excellent page on installation of a derailleur, though not specific to any one model.

plustax

Are we talking about the tab that sticks out near the H portion o that diagram? I'd definitely plan on having it not rub that if so.

Homebrew01

I don't know anything about 1989 Raleigh Technium.
A quick search shows mountain bikes & road bikes, which have different sized wheels.
MTBs back then were mostly 26", while road bikes are usually 700c

joejack951

It is surprisingly easy to make the mistake of threading the chain through the derailleur incorrectly such that it contacts that tab. Ask how I know

CliffordK

Hmmm... I did have one new chain that was running a bit rough... for almost 100 miles until there wasn't much left of that tab.