zze86

I have a 1987 Trek 520 Cirrus that I am looking into upgrading to a 10 speed for various reasons.

***EDIT*** correction 1986 Trek 520 Cirrus, thanks Eggman!

The Trek is currently equipped with a 2x6 Suntour a-3000 DT shifters, FD and RD that thinks it is a 2x4 drivetrain. I have read if the freewheel is not a Suntour Accushift freewheel it can lead to shifting issues but I have yet to confirm the make/model of the freewheel. Furthermore, I would also like a triple crankset - hills and planned touring loads. In the meantime, I acquired a set of Ultegra 6600 brake calipers (not initially planned for this project) in the Ice Grey color which matches the grey metallic color (official color name: cumulus gray) of my Trek quite nicely. The Ice Grey color seems to be available on the Ultegra 6600/6700 group which are, of course, 10speed groupsets. --> 10speed upgrade.

I wish to mix and match components based primarily on my tastes in aesthetics and wanted to verify with the gurus things would work competently together. Here is what I am thinking based on my research thus far:

6600/6700 brifters or bar ends, I haven't quite decided yet
6600 triple FD
6600 RD
6500 (not a typo) or 600 triple crankset
5600/6600 cassette
10-speed chain

I realize the rear axle spacing on the frame will need to be slightly enlargened but I was most concerned about the use of a 6500 or 600 crankset. Would either crankset pose a problem? My research indicates the teeth dimensions, and thus inner spacing of the chain, should be the same and so I should be able to run these older cranksets just fine but wanted to verify. I don't particularly like the bulbous looks of the 6600/6700 cranks and do not want the crankset in the Ice Grey color anyways.

Anything else I am missing?

TIA!

bradtx

zze86, Depending on what your anticipated touring load is going to be, you may want to rethink your drivetrain. Recommended gearing range for heavily loaded touring is 20-100 GI. For example, my touring bike uses a 22-32-44T crank set and an 11-30T cassette.

When an old knee injury flared up I spec'd a triple's group for my distance roadie based on aesthetics, much like you're attempting now. I used a 5403 crank set and brake calipers with a 5503 FD and RD. Cassettes varied, but generally were in the 13-25 GI range. Good enough for light touring loads with a range of ~32-108 GI.

Overall your parts list whould work well together. I do prefer the 6503 crank set and I have one on my current distance roadie.

Brad

dedhed

That bike would not have originally had a Suntour 2x drivetrain. I would seriously doubt that 6600 brakes will have enough reach. Good news is 6600 STI will pull cantis, 6700 maybe. A triple will require at minimum a 6(X)00 GS medium cage rear derailleur or mountain depending on gearing selected. Make sure the brake bridge is drilled for caliper brakes (probably is) as this was a canti bike. You'll need a new wheel with a hub compatible with a 10 speed set up. 1987 Trek Bicycle Brochure

I run a full 6600 triple group on my '91 Trek 400 and had brake reach issues. When I first installed that stuff on a '87 400 ( as on the '91) I did not need to respace the frame - it was original at 128mm to accommodate both 126 and 130mm wheels.

fietsbob

Missing Measuring the Frame.. 135 rear dropout Spread? you can go at it with all the new parts your wallet is willing to support..

zze86

Thanks for the confirmation all!

Bradtx - thanks for the gearing heads up. I don't plan on doing really high loads, but I guess that is relative. From my backpacking experiences, I'm generally in the 40-45lb range with food included for a long three-day weekend. Why is it that the drivetrain needs to be reconsidered? That the Ultegra may not offer gearing options low enough?

Dedhead - I'll be putting together a wheelset from spare parts, 6600 hubs and Mavic Open Pro rims. I think my particular bike may have been a custom ordered one. The bike does not have canti-mounts although I really should double check the reach, thank you.

Fietsbob - I was aware of the need for spreading the frame as mentioned in the original post. The reminder is appreciated though. Funding is always a consideration but I'm in no particular hurry with this bike. At the very least this gives me a game plan. Together, they may allow me to score on some deals.

nfmisso

Correct. For touring, a 9 speed mountain rear derailleur is compatible with some 10 speed road group shifters. The M591 and M592 are commonly used; which are spec'd for 34T and 36T max cogs at the rear.

FastJake

Regarding the brakes: 520 should have cantilevers, not calipers.

bikemig 

There are a few other things to consider. First, the 520 came spec'd with 27 inch wheels. No easy thing to make this work with 700c wheels; it can be done but you'll need to carefully consider which cantilever brakes will work with the narrow posts found on older bikes and has the needed adjustability. I would not use the grey ultegra brakes for this project and in any case likely lack the reach to work properly. Second, the mavic open pro rims are not a good choice for touring. Mavic a319s are a much better choice or one of velocity's offerings like the dyad. You're packing an extra 45 lbs; you'll want stout 36 spoke wheels.

Andrew R Stewart 

The 520 went through several versions with wheel size and running gear changes depending on the market at the time. It would be nice to have more complete details about the bike in question, like a photo or three. Case in point is the brakes. Did the bike have cantis? Did the bike have "touring" clearances between the fender(brake) mounting holes in the bridge and crown?


I sometimes feel that the expectations some have when posting here are not matched by the info provided. Or the info needed isn't even understood by the poster, even worse. I'm a Dr's kid. I think of patients asking about their problem over the phone (the old phones, you know the kind that only has audio...) My Dad asking if their leg is still straight when the patient wonders if the leg is broken. Andy.

bikemig 

Assuming the OP ID'd his bike correctly, the bike came stock with 27 inch wheels and cantilevers,

https://www.vintage-trek.com/images/t...7/87Trek22.jpg

Edit: Looks like Andy was right on the money with this post. The bike is not an '87 which of course changes everything in terms of how to go about doing this project.

zze86

While I have not checked the serial # across databases, I am fairly certain it is a '87 520 Cirrus. The bike does not have canti mounts and sports calipers with 700c wheels. This talk about the canti's and 27" wheels makes me nervous and perhaps I should check the serial #. If it's a "fake", it's certainly a very good one, lol.

I have recently installed full coverage fenders on the bike. Tolerances between the tire, fender and rear brake bridge is a little tight but I attribute that partially to the fenders as well (Blackburn Cloudburst)

Click the pic for higher res:

Eggman84

I believe you have the 1986 520 cirrus, which came with caliper breaks (see https://www.vintage-trek.com/images/t...rekCatalog.pdf). Use of cantilever brakes on the Trek 520 Cirrus started in 1987 (see 1987 Trek Bicycle Brochure).

Based on the 1986 catalog, your bike does not include most (if any) of the original components. If it is custom, it was after it was shipped from the factory. Probably heavily modified by some former owner. You can update it using any components you want, but it wont be period correct by any means. You will be updating it purely to match your physical and/or aesthetic needs/wants. Goo luck.

zze86

Excellent, thanks Eggman! The PO told me it was an '87 and a quick peruse of the catalog pic, it looked close enough that I didn't question it. Even more vintage!

bradtx

zze86, The 520, IIRC, went through some changes early on. I don't think yours is the '87 version, perhaps earlier.(?)

If the bike's rear drop outs are already spaced at 126 mm in the rear, a 130 mm hub will work with a little thumb pressure to spread the drop outs for installation providing that there is no pre existing issues with the brake stay joinery.

The Open Pro rim, even with 36 spokes is a bit light weight for touring. Tire size maybe limited on your frame, what size is mounted now?

Yes, my earlier comment was to encourage lower overall gearing for your planned loading. The mountain bike RD will allow for enough chain take up and a much larger bottom sprocket on the cassette. Using a 34T bottom sprocket and a 30T chain ring you can reach the lower 20 GI range. A spare cassette with less range and tighter ratios can be used for non touring activities.

Brad

PS I see you've found the correct model year.

zze86

Thanks so much for your assistance Brad! So much more to think about! Will definitely have to reconsider the RD and gearing and if that's the case mayhaps the whole build, lol.

Much appreciated!

Andrew R Stewart 

I hope this plays out in the OP's best interest. Just as I hope all Dr's patients get well. Andy

bradtx

Absolutely!

Brad

bradtx

I don't know that the initial build needs a complete re-think. I just used my distance roadie, if it had the necessary attachment points for racks, and my touring bikes to find a happy medium.

For touring the wheels need to be robust enough to deal with poor road conditions and a load that can't 'unweight' itself. 36 hole wheels are the most used, and some prefer 40 hole rims, but others have been successful with 32 hole rims. Mavic CXP33 rims are pretty strong as are Velocity Dyads and A23s.

Balancing a 40 lb. load front and rear, more weight on the front, will go a long way to help any wheel set you decide to use.

Brad

Barabaika

The Ultegra 6600 brake calipers are short-reach, 49mm.
If you were able to mount fenders, your current brakes could be medium-reach, 57mm. You should measure the reach.

Your bike is a woman's size. Do you feel comfortable?

dedhed

I'm able to run 6600 brakes on my '91 400 with fenders (PB hardcore road) and 700 x 25 using these holders. I don't know that it would work with wider fenders/tires.

BDop OFFSET HOLDERS

Andrew R Stewart 

[QUOTE=Barabaika;19409404]The Ultegra 6600 brake calipers are short-reach, 49mm.
If you were able to mount fenders, your current brakes could be medium-reach, 57mm. You should measure the reach.

Your bike is a woman's size. Do you feel comfortable?[/QUOTE]


That's a large assumption, are you a small guy? Or a large guy with a problem with small guys? I sure hope you didn't intend your comment to sound like I read it. Bike fit is more about seat set back and bar reach/drop then seat tube length. Andy (who rides a 50cm but with big hands likes a long reach to the bars)

Barabaika

I assume that the bike was bought used and wasn't properly fitted.
I assume that everything will be replaced with very expensive components except the frame, fork, and handlebar. If the frame is comfortable, why not?

Barabaika

Medium-reach brakes are still made.
Shimano R650, Tektro R539, Dia-Compe BRS101, Origin8, Velo-Orange, etc.

FastJake

Umm, no. It's a small size. This bike could be ridden by men or women.