leicanthrope

I recently picked up / rescued an older Zipp 1080 rear wheel. I might just built it back up for giggles at some point, although I'm having trouble tracking down a suitable hub. Anyone have any recommendations for a 20 hole straight pull rear hub that doesn't use some really funky proprietary spoke? I'm not opposed to used, as it's for a bike with a 10 speed drivetrain.

Jiggle

Yes, get one of the Shimano oem hubs for the Dura Ace C24 that people are putting on ebay - 7900 or 7850. They use regular straight pull spokes, 20 hole.

gsa103

This. You need a Shimano hub rescued from a damaged C24 wheel.

HillRider

There are others. My Shimano WH-R560 wheel set has 20 straight pull rear spokes but the lacing is a bit unconventional, radial driveside and 2X non-drive side. It works.

Dan Burkhart 

If you are replacing the hub anyway, you are not tied to using straight pull spokes. You could even re purpose the rim for a front wheel for which 20 hole hubs are much more common.

leicanthrope

I had assumed that it would be impossible to lace up a rim that deep with J-bend spokes, and that you'd basically have no choice but to go with straight pull. Am I wrong? (I'd love to be.)

fietsbob

20 spoke radially spoked Rear? these building with motorcycle spokes?



There are hex head nipples you can buy, to tension the spokes from the end.. now whether they will be good for the higher tension

having so few spokes requires, is another unknown, by me . as a prediction...


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leicanthrope

It's not so much the tensioning that I was even worried about. It's getting the spokes in place, especially the last few once the hub is fixed in place by the other spokes. I had assumed that a super deep rim would necessitate dropping a straight pull spoke straight through the hub and directly to the rim, and that a J-bend might be problematic with it having to be swung into place at an angle.

(Ultimately it's not a project that I'm planning on dropping much money on. I got the rim for free, so it's more of an experiment than anything else. I would have gone for something with a higher spoke count if I were spending anywhere near as much money as a new Zipp rim would command.)

Dan Burkhart 

Zipp wheels use non proprietary spokes. No reason you can't use J bend.
Just be aware that some models of Zipps have a very thin rim bed and require nipple washers. If there are washers in there now, be sure to use them on a rebuild.

fietsbob

Simple trick : extra spoke thread the head end of the nipple on, and then you have a handle to get the nip onto a spoke in a double wall rim.

You can always resell the rim and find something else that works easier. gain wheel building practice on a simpler combination..

Dan Burkhart 

Yeah, his rim is something like 100mm profile, so putting the nipples in place requires a trick like that, or kabob skewers work.

Jiggle

Utterly incomprehensible.

Dan Burkhart 

Maybe this will clear it up for you.

HillRider

Wow, are those interesting. They would make the initial lacing and nipple installation a lot faster and easier than one of those off-set screwdriver-type nipple drivers. Just use a thin wall socket on a power screwdriver and have at it.

Dan Burkhart 

Not really. I've built with those nipples and I still use my Wheel Fanatyk nipple starter because with a socket, you have to come up from the bottom or in from the side so the nipple doesn't fall out.
There are special wrenches to fit the three common sizes of internal nipples, 2 hex, and one square.
The one pictured is not an internal nipple, but obviously it can be tensioned from the end with a hex socket.

fietsbob

Some automated wheel building machines use the hex head nipples to tension all of them at once.. from the ends.

cpach

If you're interested, I've broken one too many spokes on my old Mavic Ksyrium Equipe rear wheel, so I've retired it. I'd be willing to send you the hub for shipping + a few bucks for the labor of unlacing the wheel and packaging the hub up. It requires straight pull spokes laced 2x NDS, radial DS. It may require using bladed spokes on the NDS because the spokes exit at the first crossing at exactly the same distance to the flange. The bearings feel good, and the freewheel was serviced about a thousand miles ago and is in good shape (if you want, I can overhaul the freewheel for a few bucks). I just hate good parts going to waste.

Kimmo

Mavic make some cool wheels, but their rear hubs are iffy. The inboard bearing for the freehub is just a plastic bushing which requires regular maintenance.

Go with a Shimano hub FTW - for mine, their rear hubs are the best. There are at least a dozen flavours of Shimano 20h straight pull rear hubs.

Also, bugger J-bend, straight pull is where it's at (except with round spokes, that's just dumb).

fietsbob

I have a NOS Mavic 501 36 hole free wheel, sealed bearinghub ready to build in a wheel, I dont weigh 85 pounds so I stay Pragmatic..

Casssettes... I wouldnt stray far from Midline Shimano and risk lack of spare parts, in small towns, without a market for premium priced gear, so stocking nil.




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Jiggle

This is what you want for speed. Cut the driver and stick it in your drill. Schwing.

fietsbob

still have to bring each spoke up to tension a tiny bit at a time, equal to all the others, or the rim wont be round.

unless you have a wheel building robot that turns all the nipples equally . simultaneously .

HillRider

Right but it's nice to be able to spin the nipples on quickly and to take out the majority of the slack while you are doing the initial lacing. Of course final tensioning and truing requires small turns as you approach the final steps.

fietsbob

Maybe rigid low spoke count rims tolerate more, I like my rim to stay round thruout the process..

removing slack from just 1 spoke, can make the rim of center, of course.

HillRider

You don't seem to grasp what I am explaining. When you are first lacing up a wheel you thread the nipples on for most of the thread depth but leave them ALL quite slack. That takes a lot of rotations of the nipples and a power screwdrive with a thin wall socket can make that part go a lot faster.

Kimmo

I just do up all the nipples till the threads just disappear inside the nipple as I'm lacing the wheel. If the spoke length is right, it only takes about four more turns to bring the wheel up to tension.