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Soft BB7 levers on install

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Soft BB7 levers on install

Old 03-25-17, 04:53 PM
  #1  
uRabbit
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Soft BB7 levers on install

Installing all BB7 system and I've been working on this for three hours now. Not a happy camper.

First, I had issues with cutting the cable housing (Jagwire compressionless) because I don't have housing cutters, and instead have wire cutters. So I had issues getting the pop ferrule onto the housing. Had to use that weird rubber sleeve that comes with it to get the ferrule and housing to at least sit up against each other.

The levers are soft. I'm assuming it's because the housing isn't perfect. It is super tight though. No squirreling about at all. Not sure how to fix the soft levers.

Also, I have two sets (two bikes). The first one I tried, one of the brakes' outboard piston is extended too far. How can I fix that?

edit: To be clear about the levers: They engage the rotors at about half pull, but I can still pull them all the way to the handle.

Last edited by uRabbit; 03-25-17 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 03-25-17, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by uRabbit View Post
one of the brakes' outboard piston is extended too far. How can I fix that?
Page 5 might fix that: https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....al_english.pdf

Rotor setup look like page 7?
https://cdn.sram.com/sites/default/fi...d7_English.pdf
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Old 03-25-17, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by cobba View Post
The most common issue with the BB7 is that the
outboard pressure foot can become dislodged if
the outboard adjustment knob is turned too far
clockwise without the rotor in the caliper (wheel
off or caliper removed). The brake is not broken,
nor does it require disassembly to replace the
pressure foot. To replace the pressure foot, turn
the outboard adjuster knob counter-clockwise
until it stops. If the knob doesn’t stop, then the
foot screw (the end of which can be seen in the
center of the knob) has become disengaged
from the knob and possibly from the threads
inside the drive cam. In this case, remove the
knob, then using a pair of small needle-nose
pliers or a schrader valve tool, turn the foot
screw all the way back out until it stops. Now
the pressure foot can be replaced. Relocate the
pressure foot into the bore, then give it a firm
push in the center. It will click back into place.
If you removed the knob, replace it and you’re
done!
How do I remove the adjuster knob?

---

Also, is some rubbing at first normal? I cannot get them perfect no matter what. Been going since 11 AM. It's now 9:30 PM...
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Old 03-25-17, 10:35 PM
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So in Summary OP's post goes:

"I messed up the housing installation"

"The levers are soft because I messed up the housing installation"

"How do I fix the levers to not be soft?"

Uh, well if we look at those statements and backtrack the causality....
it seems to imply that the levers aren't working right because the housing isn't installed right....
so, this is a long shot, but do you think there's a chance that fixing the housing, might somehow.... make the levers work?

naw.... that doesn't make any sense at all
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Old 03-26-17, 01:31 AM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by uRabbit View Post
How do I remove the adjuster knob?
Flat head screwdriver between the caliper body and the back of the knob, it probably shows that in the manual somewhere.

Also, is some rubbing at first normal? I cannot get them perfect no matter what.
If you have constant rub, the brake probably needs re-aligning or adjusting.
If you have intermittent rub, the rotor probably isn't true.

Rotor truing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fosSuyiCDE


Do you have the right levers for the brakes?
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Old 03-26-17, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by xenologer View Post
So in Summary OP's post goes:

"I messed up the housing installation"

"The levers are soft because I messed up the housing installation"

"How do I fix the levers to not be soft?"

Uh, well if we look at those statements and backtrack the causality....
it seems to imply that the levers aren't working right because the housing isn't installed right....
so, this is a long shot, but do you think there's a chance that fixing the housing, might somehow.... make the levers work?

naw.... that doesn't make any sense at all
This is actually my first time working with compressionless housing, and installing an all new brake system. Tested them out today for the burn-in. Work great except for the rubbing. Got the softness figured out for the most part.

Originally Posted by cobba View Post
Flat head screwdriver between the caliper body and the back of the knob, it probably shows that in the manual somewhere.
Cool. Wasn't sure if it was intended to work that way or not.

If you have constant rub, the brake probably needs re-aligning or adjusting.
If you have intermittent rub, the rotor probably isn't true.

Rotor truing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fosSuyiCDE


Do you have the right levers for the brakes?
Roger that. Definitely the not the rotor.

Yes, I have all Avid. (GS2 rotors, Speedier levers, Juicy pads, BB7 calipers)
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Old 03-26-17, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by uRabbit View Post
Roger that. Definitely the not the rotor.
You turned the wheel slowly and looked closely at the rotor or you are assuming that a new rotor would be true.

New rotors aren't always true.

If the inner pad is constantly rubbing, adjust it away from the rotor.


Yes, I have all Avid. (GS2 rotors, Speedier levers, Juicy pads, BB7 calipers)
Speed Dial levers?
BB7 Mountain or BB7 Road?

The red dial on a Speed Dial lever changes the amount of cable that the lever pulls and how the brake feels.
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Old 03-26-17, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by cobba View Post
You turned the wheel slowly and looked closely at the rotor or you are assuming that a new rotor would be true.

New rotors aren't always true.

If the inner pad is constantly rubbing, adjust it away from the rotor.
Turned it quickly, watched and listened, and turned it slowly, watched and listened. Also, before installing, I laid it flat on a clean flat surface.

The rubbing is not intermittent, but constant. I've pin-pointed it to the bottom of the inboard pad. So I've gone back to the manual and repeated steps 7-9. I have also attempted steps 7-9 with a business card between both pads and rotor, as well as with a business card between just the offending pad and rotor. Unfortunately, it is still rubbing in the same spot. edit: Top of outboard pad rubs as well. Can't get it to no rub without there being almost-zero tension.

Speed Dial levers?
BB7 Mountain or BB7 Road?

The red dial on a Speed Dial lever changes the amount of cable that the lever pulls and how the brake feels.
Speed Dial. Sorry, I typed the above message when I was about to leave. Typo. Hah.
Mountain.

For the lever dial, clockwise = tighter cable, correct? This should only be adjusted during installation, right?

edit: Now the lever and brake arm don't fully return after being depressed.

Last edited by uRabbit; 03-26-17 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 03-26-17, 09:25 PM
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Sorry if it's a stupid question: what is the cable pull of the levers?

Regular BB7 require V-brake levers, i.e. not cantilever ones. Some even have a "switch" to change cable pull to match your calipers - if you have those (some Shimano models mostly), make sure the switch is set up to "L" (lower mechanical advantage and more cable pull, as opposed to "H").
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Old 03-26-17, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by uRabbit View Post
Turned it quickly, watched and listened, and turned it slowly, watched and listened. Also, before installing, I laid it flat on a clean flat surface.
You need to do it slowly and look really close when doing it, a light or torch behind the caliper can be useful.

The rubbing is not intermittent, but constant. I've pin-pointed it to the bottom of the inboard pad. So I've gone back to the manual and repeated steps 7-9. I have also attempted steps 7-9 with a business card between both pads and rotor, as well as with a business card between just the offending pad and rotor. Unfortunately, it is still rubbing in the same spot. edit: Top of outboard pad rubs as well. Can't get it to no rub without there being almost-zero tension.
Sounds like the caliper is out of alignment.

* Remove the cable from the caliper
* Loosen the caliper attachment bolts enough for the caliper to have some movement on the brake mount/adapter.
* Turn the inner and outer pad dials so the pads are pushed hard against the rotor in the 1/3 - 2/3 position.
* Tighten the 2 caliper bolts in small increments and continually go from one bolt to the other.
* Do not over tighten the bolts, this can move the caliper out of alignment.
* Attach the cable
* Dial out the pads and pull the brake lever to reset the outer pad in position
* Adjust the pads as needed

For the lever dial, clockwise = tighter cable, correct? This should only be adjusted during installation, right?
Doesn't matter which position they are in when attaching it.
The barrel adjuster makes the cable tighter not the 'speed dial' dial.

edit: Now the lever and brake arm don't fully return after being depressed.
* Check the cable moves freely before attaching it to the brake.
* Check the return spring tension on the caliper arm, it can be adjusted, the manuals should mention this somewhere.


Originally Posted by Slaninar View Post
Sorry if it's a stupid question: what is the cable pull of the levers.
OP has Avid Speed Dial levers, they are for v-brakes.
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Old 03-27-17, 01:57 PM
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Alright. Got the caliper and pads set nicely. Now the only issue is the lever not returning fully.

I checked the cable before pulling it through the caliper arm, and it moves well through the housing. Without the cable in the caliper arm, and with the cable in but not tightened (of course), the caliper arm returns strongly. I will, however, see if adjusting this helps.
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Old 03-27-17, 02:01 PM
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"Soft" can be a result of Mechanical Advantage. like Aero brake levers give on Center Pull road calipers.
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Old 03-27-17, 03:20 PM
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Best video, I do what this guy says and everything comes out right:
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Old 03-27-17, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
"Soft" can be a result of Mechanical Advantage. like Aero brake levers give on Center Pull road calipers.
Agreed. Well adjusted brakes SHOULD feel relatively soft. It means you're compressing the braking material (pad) against the braking surface (rotor/rim).
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