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Rear Hub upgrade

Old 04-10-17, 12:15 AM
  #1  
Juggaloknight
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Rear Hub upgrade

Hi I'm new to the site and getting back into cycling I have a Firm Strong CA520 it has a Shimano Tourney 7 spd I've attached a 49cc Friction Drive Kit and I just love it the only two problems I have with it is first and foremost is braking I was wanting to add additional brakes front and rear because once you get up to 25+ rim brakes just don't cut it I was looking at getting a set of Sturmey Archer RX-RD5 ROTARY 5 Speed 70mm Drum Brake Internal Gear Hub so I guess my question is can you convert a bike from a 7 spd freewheel to a 5 spd internal gear hub and if so what would I need to do it any help would be greatly appreciated I'm sure you all have answered this question many times and I'm just blind and can't find the right thread at this time and thanks again for any and all help you can provide
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Old 04-10-17, 02:48 AM
  #2  
dabac
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This bike:https://www.firmstrong.com/products/...-cruiser-bike?


Several things comes to mind:


- 25+ mph is a very common descending speed. People have been managing that with rim brakes for decades, even on loaded touring brakes.
Might want to look at improving what you've got before reworking the bike.
These:Magura HS33R Brakes | Chain Reaction Cycles are probably the most powerful rim brakes available. And they'll bolt right on.
Although it is entirely possible that upgrading to a high quality v-brake installation would be good enough. Some old XTs, grabby pads, compressionless housing etc.


- drum brakes are great if you're looking for low maintenance, but not what I'd reach for first if I wanted a stronger brake.
- most braking is to be had at the front. Unless your current brakes are really sucky, a rear rebuild is unlikely to give much useful improvement.
- You're looking at quite a pile of Money there. New hubs, new spokes, pay someone to build it.... Since the rims aren't anything special, probably single-walled, it'd make more sense having entirely new wheels built up while you're at it.
-A front end conversion to disc, new fork, new headset, new stem, new front wheel might make more overall sense. 26" wheels are easily bought used, and with a 180 or 203 mm rotor and a hydraulic brake you'll have loads of braking power.
- that's a pedal-forward cruiser. Means it'll be more difficult than on a regular bike to get your butt off the saddle and "go light".
Sitting heavy in the saddle, your bike will take a beating if you hit any bumps or potholes at 25 mph. I'd worry about rim survival. Might be better off finding a used disc brake MTB as a base for your build instead. The traditional riding position will make it easier to soak up hits and bumps.


-If you insist, you need to check that you have horizontal dropouts on your bike, and the dropout spacing/axle width. You probably have horizontal DOs, assuming it's the same frame for the 7-speed and the 3-speed. DO spacing is probably 135 mm, so pick the matching S-A hub.


You need more than just the hub. You need Anti-Rotation washer(s), Cable guides/stops, shifter etc.


(Note: with "stronger" brakes I mean providing more braking for a given amount of effort at the lever.)

Last edited by dabac; 04-10-17 at 02:54 AM.
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Old 04-10-17, 10:52 AM
  #3  
AnkleWork
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Maybe sell what you have and get a real moped -- it will automatically include better brakes. That's much more cost effective and you'll be miles ahead.
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Old 04-10-17, 01:11 PM
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Juggaloknight
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Thank you dabac very informative that is the very same bike I have I will definitely be looking into the Magura HS33R Brakes, the bike came with TEKTRO, I don't know may be I don't have them adjusted just right I just might be to fat but the back ones keep jumping out of alignment I'm pretty sure it's from the vibration from the motor
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Old 04-10-17, 01:19 PM
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Juggaloknight
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And to AnkleWork I'm trying to avoid the DMV all together as I require SR22 at this time trust me I thought about going in that direction
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