WheelMaster Hub not engaging
 

I noticed on my ride this past Saturday and a few times on prior ride when I'm coasting, then start pedaling, I would pedal for about one spin before the rear hub engages in a loud clank sound and then I'm pushing the wheels.

This started after I had taken the cassette off about a month ago to clean it. I did tighten the cassette back onto the hub with the proper torque.

The hub wouldn't be going bad already would it? I've only had these wheels for less than a year. Any thoughts?

It sounds like you need to remove the freehub and clean the pawls. No grease, but light lube is ok.

Well, "clean the pawls" doesn't mean completely disassemble the freehub body. Flush the freehub body with a good solvent like OMS and then oil it with a thin to moderate weight oil.

It depends on how it is made.

I believe Wheelmaster uses sealed cartridge bearings, but I don't know how the freehub is made. I have a couple of sealed bearing hubs, remove the end cap and the freehub slides off, and the pawls are accessible without taking anything else off.

I suspect that all the OP really NEEDS to do is ride this bike a bit more and loosen up dried or hardened grease. Adding a drop of oil, or solvent at the gap, and spinning the cassette, to draw it in, and circulate it will also help.

A better, more thorough, flush, rinse and lube sequence might be a good thing, but probably isn't necessary.

BITD, flushing old or clogged freewheels was easy enough to do off the wheel, but freehubs are harder to remove (depends on the design), so flushing is often done on the wheel and that can be messy.

Flushing freehub bodies while they are still on the hub stands a good chance of diluting and contaminating the hub bearings too. Both Shimano and Campy freehub bodies are easy enough to remove that working on them off the hub is worth the effort.

We agree. My point was that people get and follow internet advice, ie. "flush your freehub", don't understand the implications, and end up worse off than before.

I often post based not on what I would do, but what I expect a less knowledgeable person to do. After all, if they were more knowledgeable they might not have asked in the first place.

Thanks everyone for the advice. My research came up with what you all stated, but were from posts a number of years ago.

I'm going to do two things, first check with Performance Bikes since I bought these wheels from them last July and over 700 miles ago. I will see if it's a cheap fix for a few dollars for them to do. If it's too expensive I will either just replace since it's a cheap $25 part or will you tube on how to do this and learn something new.

This is the hub: HUB RR WM MT2000 QR 6B 8-10sCAS 36x135 BK

If all fails, Performance Bikes to my knowledge lets people replace parts for up to a year. I'll just take the whole wheel back and get a new one.

(I only paid $25 for both front and rear wheels last year due to points I accumulated)