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Convert 126mm 7-speed wheel to 130mm 8-speed

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Convert 126mm 7-speed wheel to 130mm 8-speed

Old 04-14-17, 04:05 PM
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ethet 
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Convert 126mm 7-speed wheel to 130mm 8-speed

Hello, I apologize for a question which I am sure has been gone over before, though I couldn't find a solid answer through search... Please humor me:

I am hoping to transfer a wheelset which I quite like from an old frame to a new frame replete with a Claris drivetrain. I am comfortable with truing and dishing a wheel and have the requisite tools to do so.

This is a 126mm wheel with a 7-speed Shimano Hyperglide freehub (Exage FH-HG50) that I would like to convert to a 130mm wheel which would be hosting an 8-speed Shimano Hyperglide cassette.

Would this be made possible by purchasing a new freehub body (something like this) and redishing the wheel and/or adding spacers to the non-driveside? Or is there another way to go about it?

Any help getting my head around this conundrum would be deeply appreciated.
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Old 04-14-17, 05:36 PM
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Piece of cake.

The hardest part is finding the required freehub body. Put that on the drive side. You'll need to respace the cones on the axle and redish the wheel. I suppose that the right way to do it would be to replace the axle with a slightly longer one but it doesn't take much of an axle nub projecting beyond the lock nut to hold the wheel securely in the dropout.

If you can't find a freehub body, send me a PM because I think that I have one. Let me know what you have for trading stock that you feel is roughly equal in value.
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Old 04-14-17, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
The hardest part is finding the required freehub body.
I suppose that is the question I have, if it is indeed possible: What freehub body should I be looking for? If I search for '8-speed Shimano freehub body' all sorts of things turn up which look right, though how do I know what I am looking for?

For example: Would any of these work?

I have a lot of parts that I would be willing to trade if you have something that would work... Though I couldn't begin to assume what would be worthy.
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Old 04-14-17, 05:56 PM
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Don't forget to cold-set your dropouts to 130mm (assuming it isn't an aluminum or CF frame).
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Old 04-14-17, 06:01 PM
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The new (as in 'New') frame has 130mm-spaced dropouts. I am hoping to transfer a wheelset I adore from an old bike with 126mm-spaced dropouts.
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Old 04-14-17, 06:15 PM
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You don't need a new freehub body.

Shimano Cassettes & Freehubs

I made a similar conversion almost 25 years ago when 8-speed Deore XT didn't yet exist. Mountain Bike Action had an article on how to cobble together a cogset from Deore and Dura Ace Hyperglide cogs, with the narrower 8-speed spacers from the Dura Ace cogset. Added a 5mm axle spacer on the non-drive side and my 130mm hub became 135mm.
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Old 04-14-17, 09:18 PM
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humh

I've done the opposite of what OP wants
took a new 8spd wheel, and transplanted a shorter 7spd freehub body
while maintaining the 135 spacing by adding spacers to the non-drive side (hub shell shifts to the right)

why? because the more symmetric dishing and spoke tensions make for a more durable wheel
and the only difference between most Shimano 7 and 8 spd cassettes, is a 14 tooth cog inserted into the 8spd version.
Do you Really need that one 14tooth cog? when all your other gears and overall range is going to be the same?
Unless your preferred cadence happens to land right on 14t, benefits are dubious.


So why not just leave your existing 7spd freehub body in place?
just add 4mm of spacer to the non-drive side.
or 2mm of spacer to each side, if you don't feel like re-dishing.

Last edited by xenologer; 04-14-17 at 09:24 PM.
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Old 04-14-17, 09:36 PM
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See my post at the following link for some help finding the correct freehub body to use: http://www.bikeforums.net/13370239-post8.html
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Old 04-15-17, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
See my post at the following link for some help finding the correct freehub body to use: http://www.bikeforums.net/13370239-post8.html
You're making it harder than it needs to be. See the Sheldon Brown link above. He'd be wasting time and money and going through a lot of trouble replacing the body.

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Old 04-15-17, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by streetstomper View Post
You're making it harder than it needs to be. See the Sheldon Brown link above. He'd be wasting time and money and going through a lot of trouble replacing the body.
Your 'waste of time' is someone else's 'doing it right.' As far as money goes, he mentioned buying a Claris groupset. To do 8 of 9 on 7 he now needs to buy Sora (more money) plus at least one higher end cassette that can be reconfigured. To me, there is nothing desireable about that arrangement. Swapping a freehub is not difficult.
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Old 04-15-17, 02:35 PM
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If you have to pay for a new freehub, you could probably buy a new complete lower end hub that would still be nicer than your Exage. Measure to find the proper size so you can re-use your spokes.
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Old 04-15-17, 02:50 PM
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Or you could just toss the largest sprocket off the 8 speed cassettes and set the RD limit screw to prevent it from moving to one gear. You might need a spacer to enable the cassette lockring to engage the smallest sprocket. My guess would be about 0.5 mm thick one - could thin down the spacer off the cassette after removing the largest sprocket.

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Old 04-15-17, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv View Post
If you have to pay for a new freehub, you could probably buy a new complete lower end hub that would still be nicer than your Exage. Measure to find the proper size so you can re-use your spokes.
For my friend's bike i bought a whole new hub but not for that reason. I did it because a new Tiagra hub from the UK was cheaper than just the same freehub from the US and I got the all-important matching drive side cone with it. And no need to rebuild the whole wheel.

If he had some odd hub with no replacement freehubs available a whole new hub would be best. But Shimano hubs,
in my experience, use one of two different freehubs (excluding Dura Ace and XTR stuff). The OP just needs to remove his current freehub to figure out which back end it has and then order the matching part, or as I did, a current hub using the same freehub.
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Old 04-15-17, 05:43 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by AlexCyclistRoch View Post
Don't forget to cold-set your dropouts to 130mm (assuming it isn't an aluminum or CF frame).
For 126mm you don't need to cold set or pay attention to aluminum frames even.

Cannondale or Klein 126mm rear spaced frames have been going strong with 130mm hubs for almost 30 years and I've never seen one failure. In fact Cannondale used a 128mm spacing for a short time so frames could take 126mm or 130mm hubs.

I wouldn't put in a 135mm touring or mountain bike hub in a 126mm spaced frame if it was aluminum though.


Cold setting isn't really necessary, but if you do do it make sure it's done using the right dedicated spreader tools. Half the idgits in the industry drank all the Kool-Aid Sheldon brewed and think cold setting can be done with two by fours. Do it properly. Sheldon also thought a good tandem was two single steel frames welded together, and he advocated hubs whose axles didn't even extend into the dropouts. Sheldon used to make blanket posts regarding vintage lightweight valuations where he didn't know what he was talking about. He didn't have a clue for example, that almost any Olmo we see in the states from the vintage lightweight era was likely more expensive than a then contemporary Colnago. Colnago like Masi when they moved, "bet the farm" on their US marketing and distribution. Olmo ignored the US bike boom. The only Olmo imported to the US have been through private distributors. The ones that did make it here looking at the catalogs were mostly top end. Sheldon didn't seem to know how to say "I don't know" when he should have. He was prodigious as a contributor, but a lot of it requires a shovel to dig through to the good content. His comment that Olmo was "just the Schwinn of Italy" and bikes being not worth much was repeated by many. Which is why if you look you can find epic 531 Olmo frames dripping with Campagnolo for bargains. They truly are a peerless head badge and the history of the brand predates almost EVERYTHING else.

Sheldon's wife was in the MIT independent activity period group with Gary Klein. She figured out oversize aluminum tubing before Klein did. He lost the patent suit against Cannondale when Harriet's aluminum bike she built was found in a cellar in a France. Gary stole her idea, as well as the the oversize aluminum bike another student built in that same group (that testified against Klein in litigstion).

You want to know something about how to build a bike frame, materials engineering, and weld theories you wanted to talk to Harriet Fell. That didn't stop Sheldon from blathering on about hacking apart steel frames and welding together things that make Walmart bikes look like high zoot kit in comparison.

Ignore Sheldon when it comes to cold setting and get the right spreader tool for steel. Or just take your time with steel/aluminum when slipping in the 130mm hub. It's only 2mm per side different.

If you really want to be intelligent just peruse the Wheels Manufacturing site and use narrower spacers or locknuts. It ain't a thing to have a machinist thin locknuts 1mm or 2mm each, if you want to convert a 130mm hub to 126mm.

Don't try to convert a cup/cone hub. The inner races are the hubs themselves and every mile on a cup/cone hub has more drag and is less efficient than the last. You can find good sealed bearing hubs cheap.
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Old 04-15-17, 06:09 PM
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O/P says in the thread title it's a 130, but I know you enjoyed typing all that again....
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Old 04-17-17, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ethet View Post
Hello, I apologize for a question which I am sure has been gone over before, though I couldn't find a solid answer through search... Please humor me:

I am hoping to transfer a wheelset which I quite like from an old frame to a new frame replete with a Claris drivetrain. I am comfortable with truing and dishing a wheel and have the requisite tools to do so.

This is a 126mm wheel with a 7-speed Shimano Hyperglide freehub (Exage FH-HG50) that I would like to convert to a 130mm wheel which would be hosting an 8-speed Shimano Hyperglide cassette.

Would this be made possible by purchasing a new freehub body (something like this) and redishing the wheel and/or adding spacers to the non-driveside? Or is there another way to go about it?

Any help getting my head around this conundrum would be deeply appreciated.
Just to locate the OP's original post.
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Old 04-17-17, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv View Post
O/P says in the thread title it's a 130, but I know you enjoyed typing all that again....
You couldn't be more wrong.

The actual title is:

Convert 126mm 7-speed wheel to 130mm 8-speed
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Old 04-17-17, 12:20 PM
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He said from the start it was a 130 bike and yet you went into your cold setting harangue, complete with pics, again. ???
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Old 04-17-17, 12:57 PM
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This thread has a lot of making this job a much bigger than it really is. Wasting time and money! The two hardest parts of swapping an 8/10 speed for a 7-speed freehub body are finding the freehub body and finding a 10 mm allen wrench.
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Old 04-17-17, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Retro Grouch View Post
This thread has a lot of making this job a much bigger than it really is. Wasting time and money!
...that's kind of unfair. I now know that cup and cone hubs are woefully inefficient, and that I'm much better off with sealed bearing hubs
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Old 04-17-17, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv View Post
O/P says in the thread title it's a 130, but I know you enjoyed typing all that again....
Eh, he's had that rant in a word doc for copy and paste for several years now.
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Old 04-18-17, 12:34 AM
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With a threaded cup/cone axle you just disassemble the hub and replace the axle with a wider one. Less than $10

However you might not need to. As long as there is enough axle to sit in the dropouts you're fine. Don't listen to Sheldon Brown on this you need SOME axle in the dropout or the wheel tends to shift regardless of how tight the skewer is. You might get away with just replacing the spacers/locknuts to account for the needed 2mm per side and not have to replace the axle.

Most people forget you can "build" a 140mm or 145mm tandem cassette hub this way. The problem is it's easy to bend QR threaded axles on a tandem, and cup/cone hubs are...
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Old 04-24-17, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by mtnbke View Post
You couldn't be more wrong.

The actual title is:

Convert 126mm 7-speed wheel to 130mm 8-speed
Originally Posted by ethet View Post
The new (as in 'New') frame has 130mm-spaced dropouts. I am hoping to transfer a wheelset I adore from an old bike with 126mm-spaced dropouts.
I'm sure you're going to die on the hill of semantics, but the fact of the matter is that he HAS a 130 frame and wants to get his 126 wheel to fit. Your call on how you want to go about the discussion of cold setting that frame again.
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Old 04-24-17, 11:42 PM
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I have respaced 126 mm wheel to 130. I added a 4mm spacer to the nds and adjusted the cones and locknuts on both sides leaving about two mm on each side. 2 mm of axle has worked perfectly for me getting on close to 15000 miles.
I think if you use an 8 speed freehub you will end up with more dish on the wheel. Using the 7speed freehub you can use less dish. No hassle with compatible seals or cones
Pick an 8 speed cassette and drop one sprocket from either end which ever suits best.
Use the limit screws to stop the extra shift in the shifters.
It will work.

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Old 04-24-17, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 3alarmer View Post
...that's kind of unfair. I now know that cup and cone hubs are woefully inefficient, and that I'm much better off with sealed bearing hubs
Funny, track riders covet cup and cone Dura-Ace hubs. Someone needs to get their heads straightened.

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