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Old 04-25-17, 08:18 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Piratebike
I don't get it. All these new bikes are advertised as tubeless ready....what real reason is there for going tubeless?
Theory is that higher volume, lower pressures provide a more comfortable and faster ride for roadies. For mountain bikers, the lower pressure/squish helps with traction. The main problem with lower pressures is the risk of pinch flats, which tubeless helps to remedy. And it has an added benefit that the sealant also closes up small punctures.

So, it's a thing.

That said (and perhaps I have poor technique), tubeless are a pain for me to set up.

I'm in the process of doing it now. I got a second wheelset (tubeless) for my gravel bike a few months ago and thoughtlessly put my less knobby tires on. I'm finally getting around to switching the knobbies on. But... The ordinary clincher wheelset? 10 minutes and both are done. The tubeless wheelset? Having a hell of a time trying to get the bead seated. It's a real question whether it's worth it.

Last edited by athrowawaynic; 04-25-17 at 08:35 AM. Reason: a letter
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Old 04-25-17, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by athrowawaynic
Theory is that higher volume, lower pressures provide a more comfortable and faster ride for roadies. For mountain bikers, the lower pressure/squish helps with traction. The main problem with lower pressures is the risk of pinch flats, which tubeless helps to remedy. And it has an added benefit that the sealant also closes up small punctures.

So, it's a thing.

That said (and perhaps I have poor technique), tubeless are a pain for me to set up.

I'm in the process of doing it now. I got a second wheelset (tubeless) for my gravel bike a few months ago and thoughtlessly put my less knobby tires on. I'm finally getting around to switching the knobbies on. But... The ordinary clincher wheelset? 10 minutes and both are done. The tubeless wheelset? Having a hell of a time trying to get the bead seated. It's a real question whether it's worth it.
So with the tubeless wheel set, tires are TR as well? Try this, take out the valve core, use a compressor, should get lots of air in quickly.
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Old 04-25-17, 08:56 AM
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Dunno what the right way is, but when I was seating car tires, I used one of the cheapo airgun sprayer things--meant to blow dust off stuff. I found I could shove it into the schrader valve (sans core) and it would seat the beads. Just like this.
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Old 04-25-17, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Leebo
So with the tubeless wheel set, tires are TR as well? Try this, take out the valve core, use a compressor, should get lots of air in quickly.
Schwalbe Super Swan, so I think they're supposed to be TR, unless I have an older version that aren't.

I've been trying with a FlashCharger pump. But compressor may be necessary.
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Old 04-25-17, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Leebo
Look at something in the 30 mm width rim for your tires. And what psi are planning to run? Some tires and rims have a low max limit if not road/commuter setup.
I never worry much about low pressure limits on tires. Last fall I ran the Horizons at 30 psi, and then at 20 psi. I don't recall at the moment which of those pressures I liked better.

I'm undecided about rim width. Am looking at WTB KOM rims, and either 23mm or 25mm inside rim width. Both are within the ETRTO bounds. Any thoughts? The 23mm inner rim width is more toward the center of the range for 47mm tires. 25mm is a close to the widest that's recommended. I've flip-flopped several times this past week. Right now I'm leaning toward 23mm inside width. Tough call. What do you think?
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Old 04-25-17, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JonathanGennick
I never worry much about low pressure limits on tires. Last fall I ran the Horizons at 30 psi, and then at 20 psi. I don't recall at the moment which of those pressures I liked better.

I'm undecided about rim width. Am looking at WTB KOM rims, and either 23mm or 25mm inside rim width. Both are within the ETRTO bounds. Any thoughts? The 23mm inner rim width is more toward the center of the range for 47mm tires. 25mm is a close to the widest that's recommended. I've flip-flopped several times this past week. Right now I'm leaning toward 23mm inside width. Tough call. What do you think?
Nope, you misread me. Low MAX limits. Maximum tire pressures ( my wording could have been better) Some tires and rims for tubeless won't go over say 40 psi. Again, range of widths expected for your tires? I would look to the tire or rim maker for guidelines. My thoughts? Wider is better for lower pressure. 28mm ?
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Old 04-25-17, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by athrowawaynic
Schwalbe Super Swan, so I think they're supposed to be TR, unless I have an older version that aren't.

I've been trying with a FlashCharger pump. But compressor may be necessary.
Try this first. Got a 26er tube to stretch over the outside of the tire when trying to inflate? Or one of those straps with a cam buckle for roof top tie downs? A good way to just get air to seal when inflating. But compressor for sure.
Garage or car wash nearby?
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Old 04-25-17, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Leebo
Try this first. Got a 26er tube to stretch over the outside of the tire when trying to inflate? Or one of those straps with a cam buckle for roof top tie downs? A good way to just get air to seal when inflating. But compressor for sure.
Garage or car wash nearby?
Yeah, there's a gas station down the street.

I'm sure at least one of my neighbors has a compressor.
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Old 04-25-17, 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Leebo
Nope, you misread me. Low MAX limits. Maximum tire pressures ( my wording could have been better) Some tires and rims for tubeless won't go over say 40 psi. Again, range of widths expected for your tires? I would look to the tire or rim maker for guidelines. My thoughts? Wider is better for lower pressure. 28mm ?
I did misread. Sorry for that. My bad.
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Old 04-25-17, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by athrowawaynic
Schwalbe Super Swan, so I think they're supposed to be TR, unless I have an older version that aren't.

I've been trying with a FlashCharger pump. But compressor may be necessary.
Does the tire have a P (Performance) logo on the side? If so, that's the non-tubeless version, and don't bother.
The tubeless versions typically say TL-easy on the logo.

FlashCharger should work great, I've never had an issue with mine.

Try using some soapy water on the beads to get it to seat, it helps lubricate things.
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Old 04-25-17, 10:24 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by gsa103
Does the tire have a P (Performance) logo on the side? If so, that's the non-tubeless version, and don't bother.
The tubeless versions typically say TL-easy on the logo.
Yeah, non-tubeless for me then.

It is possible though--just not painless. The first time around, I managed to get a pair of Sammy Slicks set up tubeless (also with the P logo). I'll suffer it. Live and learn.

EDIT: Aaaaand... 16 hours after starting the process, tires are now holding air. I'm assuming partly technique and partly non-tubeless tires on tubeless rim.

Last edited by athrowawaynic; 04-25-17 at 12:42 PM.
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