cog lockring causing stiff axle
 

I have a new fixed gear Kilo TT. I installed a new cog and lockring on the rear wheel. When I tighten the lockring, it causes the axle to sieze up. Ive adjusted the hubs and tried to do so with the lockring already in place, but it doesnt allow the drive side cone to move freely. Its a DuraAce lockring and a Surly cog. The wheel seems to spin fine when I use the stock lockring that came with the bike. Any idea what could be causing the issue, and/or what I should do about it? I have a video demonstrating the issue but I am not allowed to post URLS until I have 10 posts.

Thanks!

I looked up the hub specs. Does "TrackSpec High Flange Aluminum, sealed precision bearings Flip-Flop 120mm rear (threaded fixed cog one side, freewheel capable other side)" sound like your hubs? Is there a chance that this hub is a re-branded Italian Miche hub? I ask because those hubs use a lockring that is not your standard thread. The Miche thread is slightly larger diameter so a Dura-Ace lockring wlill not thread on. (I'm guessing if you force it, you are doing your best to compress the hub shell.)

I use Miche hubs. I have had SunTour 12 tooth lockrings re-threaded to the Miche standard and they work beautifully (and now represent cash outlays on par with jewelry). A good machinist can do this on a lathe. It is not a tap the machinist will have so he will be cutting from scratch and I'll guess the Dura-Ace ring is as hard as the SunTour ring if it is the thin walled bell shaped 12t cog. (Not fun to machine. It took several sharpenings to get through one lockring.)

If this is a Miche hub, the smallest cog you can run with the standard lockring is 14 teeth.

Ben

Hey thanks for the reply. The hubs that came with the bike are not labeled but I read somewhere that they are formula hubs. That could be untrue though. The bearings are certainly not sealed cartridge bearings. Also, the dura ace lockring threaded on by hand with no issues, so I am assuming it is the correct size.

Guys in the fixed gear/single speed forum will know.

Lots of them have that bike. The Kilo TT is very popular.

post your video
if you can't do it as a clickable link
just type it out as words, broken up with spaces, etc

Youtu dot be/v-lXQzWDP68

When you adjusted the hubs
Did you use Cone Wrenches?

-New bikesdirect fixie
-OP who has just arrived on forums
I'm thinking, he 'adjusted' the hub using the wrong tools, and the cones and locknuts aren't actually locked against each other.
Then something like seal drag is moving the cones so they jam the bearings.
With the lockring mostly being a red herring, maybe installation of it squishing above theorized seal enough to drag; but otherwise no direct mechanical connection with the bearings.

Why don't you use that one?

Most Miche hubs (including the Primato track hubs, which I have) use sealed cartridge bearings and AFAIK so do Formula hubs...

The Dura Ace lockring is forged billet, beautifully machined with deep grooves for the tool to engage. It does not deform like inferior stamped rings.

A lockring is one of the most important parts of a fixed gear bike, expecially for hard riding and racing and the DA ring is a superior part.


-Tim-

Yes I used cone wrenches. And the cones are properly locked against the locknuts. I know I am a newbie with a "bikesdirect fixie" but I have done my research and purchased proper tools.

The hubs are certainly not sealed cartridge bearings. I fully disassembled the hubs, checked axle straightness and regreased the beariings in my search for a diagnosis, they are definitely loose steel balls. So they are probably neither Formula or Miche.

Excuse the double post. I checked the movement of the hub without the dustshield and everything spins fine. So the soft alloy of my cheap hub is being compressed around the cone by the lockring. It will wear down as I ride, or I could probably shave down the inner ring of the dustshield with some sandpaper to free it up. Thanks for your help everyone.