Help Removing Bottom Bracket on Old Raleigh
 

Hi All,

I am in the process of breaking down and eventually restoring an old Raleigh Super Record (Circa 1978 - 1982?). Being a bike newbie I thought this would be a good project to get my hands dirty, seeing as I got the bike for free.

My question is this: I got the park tool arm crank puller to remove this bottom bracket but it didn't work. I am assuming things have changed over the past 40 years (ha!) and was wondering which crank puller I'll need?

Thanks--

I also have attached a couple photos.

Define "it didn't work".
did you screw the center part of the puller most of the way out? Did you screw the puller as far into the crank as you could? Did you use tools and not just hand tight?
Some times on older bikes it's tough to get the crank to come off, but they almost always do. Use wrenches to get the puller on the crank, and to turn the center part that does the work. You might have to use lots of muscle, or hit the end of the wrench with a dead blow hammer to get it off.

[MENTION=62196]leob1[/MENTION], I was able to screw the crank puller all the way in. However the handle on the park tool is pretty short and it was very clear that I would need more torque to remove the BB. I supposed I just need to use more power? I also want to unscrew the left side the opposite way, correct?

Thanks for your response

Crank puller is a pretty simple thing. If it screwed into the crank OK, it's the right tool. I'm fairly certain (based on the fact my dad had that bike), that it's the standard threading for a square taper crank.

This is why I own the crank puller without the handle. I can always go look for a bigger wrench if I need more torque! BTW you're not removing the BB, you're removing the crankset. If you need to remove the BB, you'll need to remove the crank first of course.

No, the crank threads are the same on both sides, you're thinking of pedals.

[MENTION=391827]dr_lha[/MENTION], thanks for your response! Yes, it seems like I should have invested in a crank puller without a handle. I'll just have to think of something.

I'd give it another go with the tool you have first. Make sure you're doing everything right.

Go to your local hardware store, Lowes, Home Depot, Harbor Freight (I like them best because they are orange, easy to find in a busy shop) buy a dead blow hammer. They are plastic, but effective. Then use it to hit the handle of the crank puller. It won't break, I use one at the shop and hit it all the time. The cranks can be hard to get off if they have been on a while. A few whacks should get it off.

Use a little penetrating oil.
You can lay the bike on its side and dribble a bit in right where you need it.

This might be pointing out the obvious, but are you using a wrench to hold the base of the tool (the part that gets threaded into the crank arm) while you crank on the arm of the puller?

I've got a brand new in packaging one from Park Tool's warranty department that says they do indeed break. Then again, they are great about replacing tools under warranty!

I like using the crank arm as leverage. Position it so one hand is on the crank puller tool, one hand on the crank arm, and they are opposite one another. Then, push down on both.

I also find it easier when the wheels are on and the bike is off the stand.

Not a bad question given my level of expertise! I actually did what [MENTION=406915]jefnvk[/MENTION] mentioned above--pushing on the crank arm opposite from the crank puller tool. I think I will take the bike off the stand and see if I can get the appropriate amount of torque into it.

If you have some metal pipe you can slip it over the handle for more leverage. Another way is if you have a bike repair stand (like the Park PCS9) you can disassemble it and use one of the tubes as a whopping 3 foot lever slipped over your wrench handle.

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...I never attempt to pull a crank arm on a square taper crank without liberal use of some sort of penetrating oil applied both at the interior and exterior surfaces where the crank interfaces with the spindle. But I also have a puller without a handle, and the advice about getting one so you can use a longer wrench is good advice.

I detest those Park pullers with the integral handle. Not only do you lose leverage, but you can't put the lever arm exactly where you want it, like you can with a hex wrench. If you take your puller to a specialty fastener place, you can usually find a hex head bolt that is the correct threading and length (similar to the bolt now welded to the handle). You need to neck the business end down a little for cranks that attach with a bolt rather than a nut like yours. With your crank, a buck fitty bolt, and a wrench to turn it, you should be in bidness,

I would try using a wrench on the tool itself instead of pulling on the crank arm. I've never had a problem removing the arms using that method. The first time I ever used the crank puller, I tried it without and could not get the crankset to budge at all. Now, every time I just use the wrench to hold the base while I spin the arm of the puller. They pop off super easy every time. The advantage, too, as someone else mentioned is that you can re-position the wrench for optimum leverage.