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recommendations for ordering ultegra chainring and casette

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recommendations for ordering ultegra chainring and casette

Old 05-02-17, 11:32 AM
  #26  
freesafety22
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Originally Posted by HillRider
Please do. It would be nice to get the story straight. The difference between 9 and 10-speed cassettes is not trivial.
shoot. SORRY. 10 spd. i counted quickly this morning heading out the door and thought the chain was on the top cog so i missed one.

a closer image of the chain ring and one from the side of the cassette

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wwojngy3a24ax8q/File%20May%2002%2C%2012%2029%2004%20PM.jpeg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4ttmbc9aozy5j3z/File%20May%2002%2C%2012%2031%2024%20PM.jpeg?dl=0
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Old 05-02-17, 11:35 AM
  #27  
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hmm. i'm clicking on the picture icon and it asks me for a link which i am providing for an image uploaded to dropbox. doesn't seem to be an active link so i would have to copy and paste?

is there a better method for image uploads?
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Old 05-02-17, 04:06 PM
  #28  
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I don't know how to link dropbox images. I just pasted your link in my browser and viewed the image page. (The photo link has to point to an actual .jpg or .png image file, not to an album page like dropbox does.)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You can't use a 50/34 chainring set with your crank, the 34 chainring circle is closer to the center than the bolt holes in your crank arms.

A 11/32 or 11/34 cassette "probably" won't work either. Your derailleur pulley may hit the largest cogs. (There's a couple of ways to handle this, though.) The 12-28 most likely will work fine.

Are you going to install this cassette yourself, or take it to a bike shop?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

(Terminology)
It's chain rings in the front bolted to the crankset (crank arms and "bottom bracket" axle assembly),
Cassettes made up of cogs in the back (or freewheel in the back on older style bikes.)

"high" gear is just like a car, to go fast, so that's the smallest cog in the back.
So, "low" gear is the big cogs in the back. (which is often confusing in these threads, so I just use "big cog" and "small cog" to be clear.)


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Originally Posted by freesafety22
thanks, LBS said they were "shark toothed". i guess if i can figure out a way to post a pic i can show them....
The chainring looks barely worn (but cleaning the teeth with rubbing alcohol or paint thinner would help to view it better.) I wouldn't trust a bike shop that tried to sell you a new chainring for this crank! They are either incompetent or want to make unneeded sales.

Do you ever use the small chainring? It's very clean, even behind the crank arms, where it's harder to clean.

Here's a screenshot copy of your photo. Remember, the chain is pulled clockwise, so the teeth contact the chain rollers where the purple line is. The other side of the teeth are more rounded off to help with shifting. And you can see the different teeth shapes, repeated around the big chainring.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
53 ring.jpg (96.6 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg
53 zoom.jpg (98.2 KB, 26 views)

Last edited by rm -rf; 05-02-17 at 04:48 PM.
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Old 05-02-17, 05:40 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by rm -rf
I don't know how to link dropbox images. I just pasted your link in my browser and viewed the image page. (The photo link has to point to an actual .jpg or .png image file, not to an album page like dropbox does.)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You can't use a 50/34 chainring set with your crank, the 34 chainring circle is closer to the center than the bolt holes in your crank arms.

A 11/32 or 11/34 cassette "probably" won't work either. Your derailleur pulley may hit the largest cogs. (There's a couple of ways to handle this, though.) The 12-28 most likely will work fine.

Are you going to install this cassette yourself, or take it to a bike shop?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

(Terminology)
It's chain rings in the front bolted to the crankset (crank arms and "bottom bracket" axle assembly),
Cassettes made up of cogs in the back (or freewheel in the back on older style bikes.)

"high" gear is just like a car, to go fast, so that's the smallest cog in the back.
So, "low" gear is the big cogs in the back. (which is often confusing in these threads, so I just use "big cog" and "small cog" to be clear.)


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



The chainring looks barely worn (but cleaning the teeth with rubbing alcohol or paint thinner would help to view it better.) I wouldn't trust a bike shop that tried to sell you a new chainring for this crank! They are either incompetent or want to make unneeded sales.

Do you ever use the small chainring? It's very clean, even behind the crank arms, where it's harder to clean.

Here's a screenshot copy of your photo. Remember, the chain is pulled clockwise, so the teeth contact the chain rollers where the purple line is. The other side of the teeth are more rounded off to help with shifting. And you can see the different teeth shapes, repeated around the big chainring.
hey man. THANKS

so i just cleaned the bike top to bottom. i am suspicious of LBS.

however, just to play the devils advocate isn't there a huge difference in shape between the small chain ring i never use and the large chainring that has to have a /lot/ of miles on it at this point. also, small chain ring has rounded tops and large chain ring has flat tops...

expect to install it myself and my recollection is i just used a 2x4 to block the casette and used the park tool i have somewhere...

Last edited by freesafety22; 05-02-17 at 05:45 PM.
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Old 05-02-17, 05:42 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by rm -rf
I don't know how to link dropbox images. I just pasted your link in my browser and viewed the image page. (The photo link has to point to an actual .jpg or .png image file, not to an album page like dropbox does.)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You can't use a 50/34 chainring set with your crank, the 34 chainring circle is closer to the center than the bolt holes in your crank arms.

A 11/32 or 11/34 cassette "probably" won't work either. Your derailleur pulley may hit the largest cogs. (There's a couple of ways to handle this, though.) The 12-28 most likely will work fine.

Are you going to install this cassette yourself, or take it to a bike shop?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

(Terminology)
It's chain rings in the front bolted to the crankset (crank arms and "bottom bracket" axle assembly),
Cassettes made up of cogs in the back (or freewheel in the back on older style bikes.)

"high" gear is just like a car, to go fast, so that's the smallest cog in the back.
So, "low" gear is the big cogs in the back. (which is often confusing in these threads, so I just use "big cog" and "small cog" to be clear.)


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



The chainring looks barely worn (but cleaning the teeth with rubbing alcohol or paint thinner would help to view it better.) I wouldn't trust a bike shop that tried to sell you a new chainring for this crank! They are either incompetent or want to make unneeded sales.

Do you ever use the small chainring? It's very clean, even behind the crank arms, where it's harder to clean.

Here's a screenshot copy of your photo. Remember, the chain is pulled clockwise, so the teeth contact the chain rollers where the purple line is. The other side of the teeth are more rounded off to help with shifting. And you can see the different teeth shapes, repeated around the big chainring.
hey man. THANKS

so i just cleaned the bike top to bottom. i am suspicious of LBS.

however, just to play the devils advocate isn't there a huge difference in shape between the teeth on the small chain ring i never use and the large chainring that has to have a /lot/ of miles on it at this point.

also aren't the teeth on the small chain ring symmetrical...
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Old 05-02-17, 08:30 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by freesafety22
hey man. THANKS

so i just cleaned the bike top to bottom. i am suspicious of LBS.

however, just to play the devils advocate isn't there a huge difference in shape between the teeth on the small chain ring i never use and the large chainring that has to have a /lot/ of miles on it at this point.

also aren't the teeth on the small chain ring symmetrical...
Those chainrings look like that by design. The chain is just pulled upwards from the small ring, so it has "normal" symmetrical teeth. The big ring has the pickup rivets on the side of the ring, and machined teeth with complex shaping to make the small-to-big chainring shift quick and easy.

What's "a lot" of miles? I had 18,000 miles on my previous bike's chainrings, and they were still working great. It's hard to wear out a big chainring.
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Old 05-02-17, 08:45 PM
  #32  
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aok. got it and got it. i should understand this stuff so a big thanks for getting me up to speed.

sounds like just a casette:

CS-HG500-10 SHIMANO ultegra (?)
12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25-28 //
12-28T

yes?
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