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Many thanks for all the advice I hadn't thought of 'swept back' handlebars. I will measure the handlebars tomorrow - I have digital callipers at work. I think the centre of the handlebars (part that goes into the stem) is ever so slightly wider than the rest of the length. I should probably just buy a new bike as I'm sure its not worth all the money spent however I had the same model (different colour) stolen years ago so this one has 'sentimental' meaning!
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Originally Posted by Rooftile
(Post 19557350)
I should probably just buy a new bike as I'm sure its not worth all the money spent however I had the same model (different colour) stolen years ago so this one has 'sentimental' meaning!
And get a $40 U-Lock. A handle bar $22: https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...ycle-handlebar Grips $7-15: https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...artape/comfort 2 cables and housing $4, though there are stainless cable kits in other colors: https://www.niagaracycle.com/categor...sembly-1-brake https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzY4WDEwM...XL5Qi/$_86.JPG |
The Cinelli Priest is one riser bar that uses road brake levers. Because of the larger diameter, you don't use grips. You wrap them with bar tape.
VeloBase.com - Component: Cinelli Priest http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640...633/kHbNZT.jpg |
Originally Posted by Barabaika
(Post 19550015)
The Nitto Moustache bar is the model RM-016.
The Nitto North Road is the model B-352. Mine was $40 or so when I bought it. HANDLE BARĀ NITTO A moustache bar is a flattened version of a drop bar with the same geometry. It's for a more aggressive position with the same stem length. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYNfLSdIRNk The Moustache Handlebar |
Originally Posted by Barabaika
(Post 19557889)
My total is $40. Where will you get a new Peugeot for $40?
And get a $40 U-Lock. |
Originally Posted by blakcloud
(Post 19563460)
Nicely done and quite cost effective.
It's just an example how it can look like. I counted my expenses if I would like to convert a drop bar cheaply. About $40. |
Originally Posted by Barabaika
(Post 19545189)
First, you should measure the diameter of the current handlebar using calipers. Or it can be stamped on the handlebar.
Your bicycle is from 1989, so the diameter should be standard - 25.4mm or 26mm. It's more likely to be 25.4mm. The process is pretty simple. 1) Push on the brake levers and unscrew the bolts inside of them and take them out. 2) Use a metric allen wrench to unscrew the bolt at the bottom of the stem. Take out the handlebar. 3) Carefully insert a new handlebar trying not to scratch it and screw in the stem bolt. 4) Screw in the brake levers. 5) You may have to replace the brake cables and housing to match the new lengths. Get a swept-back handlebar called Nitto North Road, it's more comfortable. https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...HWyWBigQ2SsIGA There are other similar handlebars. Category: - Ironweed Bicycle Products http://www.ironweedbp.com/uploads/3/...88768_orig.jpg Does anyone know what the name of handlebar that is 4th from the top down is? I think it is a Velo Orange Belleville but from my understanding the Belleville is 43cm at the bend and so I didn't think that a Porteur bar(next bar down) that is 45cm at the bend would fit inside of it. I am looking for a flat bar like that, with a swept back handle that I can use guidonnet levers with. I plan to chop the swept back portion to be just a tad longer than the guidonnet levers for an aggressive city/commuter look. thanks |
Originally Posted by Rooftile
(Post 19545049)
Many thanks for all your replies. I am looking at different handlebars and was wondering if anyone can advise on what is the difference between the 'riser' handle bars and the completely straight handle bars. I was wondering what the pros/cons are why you would use one and not the other...
1. The upward rise bend limits how far inward you can slide your shifters, brake levers and handgrips. Consequently they tend to be a couple of inches wider then a straight bar. Since I normally cut downfall bars a bit, I really hate the wider riser bars. 2. Since they are wider, they tend to be swept back more to match the arc of your arms when stretched out so far to your side. 3. They limit your hand position more. If you install bar lends like on a straight handlebar, they'll look goofy. |
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