cycledogg

I have a rear 38mm full carbon 24 spoke clincher that I want to relace for more rigid strength. It is currently 2 cross drive side 12 spoke, radical non-drive 12 spoke. The spokes are Sapim Cx-Ray, with brass nipples. The hub is Bitex. Can I make both sides 2 cross using the same hub, or do I need a different hub and will this 2 cross on both sides make this wheel more laterally stronger?
Cheers

AlexCyclistRoch

How "radical" are the non-drive spokes? Are they done in some weird pattern, like a "snowflake"? Are these straight-pull or elbow-type? Also, why do you want to replace this wheel, and how heavily dished is it?

Please post a pic of this radical spoke pattern, so we can get some idea.

Dan Burkhart 

Doubtful you would gain any rigidity by lacing 2 cross both sides. Whether it's possible depends on a couple of factors. If the hub flange supports straight pull spokes, the holes will be oriented for the present configuration, and cannot be changed. If it's a flange that supports J bend spokes, then you can build crossed.
Also,if the rim bed is hidden within the rim, the holes will likewise be oriented for one method only. I've only seen a few like that, where the outer rim is actually a fairing with the actual rim hidden inside.can't remember the make right now.
Not talking about internal nipples here either. I can hear the keyboards clacking now.

cycledogg

I meant to say radial NDS. And yes, all spokes are J-bend. The flange on both sides are for J-bend spokes. Nipples are external. Maybe use a heaver spoke for the build?

Dan Burkhart 

First, I would determine that the spokes are adequately tensioned before talking about rebuilding.
CXRays are excellent spokes. I build with them a lot, but determining actual tension values requires a tension meter calibrated to that spoke. You might have difficulty finding one, even in so called 'better" bike shops.
However, once proper tension is achieved, taking it higher does not make the wheel more rigid.

noglider 

Why do you think you need your wheel to be stronger? It hasn't broken yet, has it?

Darth Lefty 

I'm betting it's brake rub, as per prior discussions about carbon rims. In which case the solution is either ignore it, or fatter spokes
Debunking Wheel Stiffness - Slowtwitch.com

Retro Grouch 

You have a "fancy boy" wheelset. I've built around 300 or 400 wheels but mine have mostly been ordinary functional wheels. When I've tried working with the fancy stuff, I've found that much of my experience doesn't apply. When you ask for advice on BF one of the things you have to learn to do is to "seed" the responders. Some people's advice is worth more than others. Dan would be at the top of my list for advice on wheel work.

fietsbob

I think you need to re think the 24 spoke 700c wheel entirely .. get a wheel with more spokes .. 32 is classic.

I have a 16" 349 rim 24 spokes spokes , is quite sparse, around that little rim compared to even 28 spokes .

[Bike Friday uses 24 spoke rims so to use 36 spoke hubs, Brompton uses rims and hubs made for them.. 28 spoke..]

noglider 

In that case, he is confusing stiffness with strength. They are different.

CliffordK

Are the spokes straight pull or J-Bend?

Straight pull spokes will have the orientation mostly be determined by the hub.
J-Bend spokes will have a lot more flexibility for reworking to different cross patterns.

You could probably keep the old DS spokes (already with the desired cross pattern), while replacing the NDS spokes (new cross pattern).