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rear brakes stuck, housing the problem?

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rear brakes stuck, housing the problem?

Old 05-20-17, 03:42 PM
  #1  
agielchinsky
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rear brakes stuck, housing the problem?

I've got a Merida 100 and the rear brakes are sticky. The brake cable and housing are internally routed through the frame. When the cable and housing are removed from the brakes, the brake operates correctly when squeezed and released by hand. When the housing is seated, even with the cable not attached, the brakes don't open easily. It looks like the cable housing is restricting the brakes. Youtube video below


It seems like the brake spring isn't strong enough to push the housing, or something is wrong with the angle. Anyone know how to fix this?

Thanks
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Old 05-20-17, 03:50 PM
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ammarolli
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I would clean and lube the brake.

I would also turn the barrel adjuster all the way in for the brake so it's tight.

After that I would loosen the cable from the pinch bolt and pulling the cable tight with hands before clamping it back to the brake.

See If that solves the problem.
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Old 05-20-17, 04:33 PM
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Either replace the inner and outer or pull the inner, clean and lube it, and reinsert
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Old 05-20-17, 04:34 PM
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I would shorten the housing, I think it is too long and is not allowing the brake to release. Get confirmation from someone else before you try.
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Old 05-20-17, 05:58 PM
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Andrew R Stewart 
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The problem could be from a few different influences. The caliper might have a bit of tightness in it's pivots just at the point to rim/pad contact so any extra friction is enough to hinder the caliper's release. It seems that when the caliper if nearly released it's got good movement (hence the click upon complete release). Check the pads for a ledge worn into the surface from the pad only contacting the lower portion part of the brake track. A ledge can get caught under the rim and cause a snag, holding the pad against the rim. Check for the caliper spring's contact with the caliper arm's tab. If the spring has a plastic sleeve at this contact (check the front) and is missing this can both lessen spring tension as well as increase friction. I don't think this has anything to do with cable in casing friction. But this is a good moment to lube the cable anyways. With a full length casing through the unfortunate internal routing it's an easy experiment to slide the casing through the frame to change the portion of casing exiting the frame and going to the caliper. A too straight section of casing here might act as a stick and not a loop's spring like flexing nature. It's this last condition that I find especially possible. Andy.
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Old 05-20-17, 07:47 PM
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AS blakcloud says, the housing may need shortening. I've had that happen on two bikes I've serviced. It could also be that the whole brake caliper has loosened and swung around and up to the left (viewed from rear) effectively shortening the cable length. Centre the brake caliper or shorten the housing would be my bet. Sometimes the calipers stick, but it seems that yours moves freely without the cable attached, Try a squirt of WD40 or similar on the pivot points, making sure not to over spray onto rear wheel braking surface.
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Old 05-20-17, 08:09 PM
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Could also be a housing end that was not properly dressed after cutting. If the housing is snipped, and the end is not ground or filed, the spiral wire re enforcing casing will be deformed and interfere with a smooth cable run.
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Old 05-20-17, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart View Post
Could also be a housing end that was not properly dressed after cutting. If the housing is snipped, and the end is not ground or filed, the spiral wire re enforcing casing will be deformed and interfere with a smooth cable run.
Good call, Dan!
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Old 05-20-17, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart View Post
Could also be a housing end that was not properly dressed after cutting. If the housing is snipped, and the end is not ground or filed, the spiral wire re enforcing casing will be deformed and interfere with a smooth cable run.

Except that the housing isn't under any tension against the adjuster barrel/inner cable in the vid. So while a casing burr can trap the inner cable since it wasn't clamped to the caliper it shouldn't interfere with the caliper's release due to that reason. In the vid there was no inner/casing sliding. Andy.
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Old 05-21-17, 03:14 PM
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So wouldn't the obvious answer be to pull the Brake line outer casing towards the front of the bike by about 3/4". I understand it's internal but can it be moved forward? There is a big loop before it goes into the frame at the front so whats another inch or so?
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Old 05-23-17, 07:14 AM
  #11  
agielchinsky
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Originally Posted by Andrew R Stewart View Post
The problem could be from a few different influences. The caliper might have a bit of tightness in it's pivots just at the point to rim/pad contact so any extra friction is enough to hinder the caliper's release. It seems that when the caliper if nearly released it's got good movement (hence the click upon complete release). Check the pads for a ledge worn into the surface from the pad only contacting the lower portion part of the brake track. A ledge can get caught under the rim and cause a snag, holding the pad against the rim. Check for the caliper spring's contact with the caliper arm's tab. If the spring has a plastic sleeve at this contact (check the front) and is missing this can both lessen spring tension as well as increase friction. I don't think this has anything to do with cable in casing friction. But this is a good moment to lube the cable anyways. With a full length casing through the unfortunate internal routing it's an easy experiment to slide the casing through the frame to change the portion of casing exiting the frame and going to the caliper. A too straight section of casing here might act as a stick and not a loop's spring like flexing nature. It's this last condition that I find especially possible. Andy.

I reattached the brake cable and fiddled with the housing a bit. It seems to be working ok. With the brake cable attached there is less travel, so it seems less chance to encounter resistance.

Andy's description of "A too straight section of casing here might act as a stick and not a loop's spring like flexing nature. It's this last condition that I find especially possible" seems to be the best description of the issue. I noticed that the cable housing actually moves in and out of the frame slightly now. Is this normal? Will it wear out the cable housing quickly?

Thanks
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Old 05-23-17, 07:44 AM
  #12  
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Some casing outer surface wear can happen. How much depends on the amount of sliding (usually more from the bars swinging about then the caliper closing and opening), the nature of the tube port (rough edges), the angle of cable entry into the port and the casing construction. One possible solution to reduce/eliminate cable creep/sliding through an internal path is to wrap and tighten a zip tie around the very front of the tube and casing, where the casing hasn't yet entered the port and where there's a lot of casing loop to smoothen the now restricted cable path. Or just pull the cable out of the tube entirely and run full length casing along the tube's outside. Andy.
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