Good rust removers?
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Good rust removers?
I've just started getting into restoring old bikes and the biggest problem is rust and grime. I bought a rust remover, but it requires overnight soaking which is tough for bikes. Anybody have any advice outside of my current method of scrubbing a lot?
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For rust on chrome, spray white vinegar on and rub with aluminum foil. For rust on painted parts, brush off as much loose rust and grime as you can, then rub with a vinegar-soaked cloth. Follow up with wax or a coating of light oil. Some automotive waxes include a bit of rubbing compound, which will help remove the top, oxidized layer of paint, but take care not to get carried away rubbing or you may rub all the way through the paint.
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Why is overnight soaking tough? Are you looking for something that'll work on spots of rust without disassembly?
I use oxalic acid and Evapo-Rust, both of which work great with zero elbow grease. Both require soaking.
I use oxalic acid and Evapo-Rust, both of which work great with zero elbow grease. Both require soaking.
#4
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If cost is no problem, get a can (bottle, really) of Evaporust. It is hands down, the easiest to use product. For an irregularly shaped object like a bicycle, which is difficult to submerge, you can soak paper towels, wrap them around the problem areas, and bag it overnight. Especially with restorations, it is prudent to disassemble the bike, to get a handle on the actual condition of the part, so bagging even a frame is not as onerous as it sounds.
More immediate results can be had using a product such as Naval Jelly (Henkel/Loctite), but this is less gentle on paint, and is not meant for use on chrome (though many vintage parts that are heavily rusted, are already beyond saving the chrome).
Check out the classic and vintage section for more information, as it is a common topic there.
More immediate results can be had using a product such as Naval Jelly (Henkel/Loctite), but this is less gentle on paint, and is not meant for use on chrome (though many vintage parts that are heavily rusted, are already beyond saving the chrome).
Check out the classic and vintage section for more information, as it is a common topic there.
#5
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I ran a bicycle recycling program for teenagers for seven years. We had no money for supplies, but a local supermarket kept donating cases of generic cola to us.
One day I read that cola is a great rust remover, so we started using ours for that purpose. It worked great, especially on raw metal parts like handlebars, rims, and seat posts.
Just be sure to rinse it off when you're done or you'll have a sticky mess and probably a garage full of ants!
One day I read that cola is a great rust remover, so we started using ours for that purpose. It worked great, especially on raw metal parts like handlebars, rims, and seat posts.
Just be sure to rinse it off when you're done or you'll have a sticky mess and probably a garage full of ants!
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I didn't really know how to soak a frame, but wrapping it in a soaked paper towels is a good idea
#8
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Rust is the steel base metal coming thru and combining with O2. that you also breathe..
it will come back , you have to do the abover reduction things forever or it will do it again.
its more abatement than removal, ... visually not obvious ..
....
it will come back , you have to do the abover reduction things forever or it will do it again.
its more abatement than removal, ... visually not obvious ..
....
Last edited by fietsbob; 06-03-17 at 09:44 PM.
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Steve
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And how do you apply it?
I have many brass brush heads. Could they be use with a Dremel?
Thanks
#11
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For really tough rust patches, we used brass and steel brush heads attached to a drill, though not a Dremel. That technique, as explained above, will remove the rust temporarily, but also removes some of the protective coating as well. Ours were children's bikes that were usually only used for a short time, so by the time the rust reappeared, the bike was back in our shop being recycled for the NEXT kid.